Hi !

 

I'm from Sweden so excuse my bad english

 

I have an Subaru RX Special -88

with the EA82T Engine.

 

I got this car from my cousin after he got some

problems with it.

The problem was that one of the timingbelts was broken.

 

Now after i replaced them and got the car running.

I was driving it home from the garage when i had driven

for 30km and then after a speedbump, when i was accelerating

it suddenly died.

 

I couldent get it to start again.

 

When i came home with the car 1 hour later it started again.

 

Now to the problem.

The car will start and run good on idle speed.

But when i'm drivin i can drive for about 20 meters before it dies and

will not start again for some time.

After some time it will start again and the same problem will accour.

 

Please help me

 

I want to drive it in the snow

 

Best regards from Sweden !

Are you sure you installed the timing belts correctly? Check them and make sure that the old one didn't break. Also check all of the idlers.

It would be good to know if the problem is fuel or spark when the engine dies. You can pull a plug wire and use an extra spark plug to see if there is spark. I would not recommend testing for spark without a spark plug as the ignition coil can be damaged.

 

My guess is that something in the ignition system is failing, or possibly something loose. The ignition coils can have problems; I replaced mine with a MSD #8222 and I also installed nice MSD 8mm wires.

 

The 20 meters the car moves, can you tell if it has normal power?

Check all the tubes from the airbox to the intake. Look for loose clamps, leaks around the small tubes that enter the large main tube into the turbo. Do you get a check engine light at all? Sounds like MAF issues.

It would be good to know if the problem is fuel or spark when the engine dies. You can pull a plug wire and use an extra spark plug to see if there is spark. I would not recommend testing for spark without a spark plug as the ignition coil can be damaged.

 

My guess is that something in the ignition system is failing, or possibly something loose. The ignition coils can have problems; I replaced mine with a MSD #8222 and I also installed nice MSD 8mm wires.

 

The 20 meters the car moves, can you tell if it has normal power?

 

I have to check that.

One problem is that its -4 degrees Farenheit (-20 degrees Celcius)

and the car is outside

 

But i will check how it runs the 20 meters it runs later on.

But as it feels when i revs it a bit its the same as always.

timing belts might be installed improperly. sounds like it's barely running and when put under load (starting to move), it just dies. it doesn't have the power to move.

 

it's very common to install these belts wrong, they're actually "opposite" in some ways of how other timing belts are installed.

 

it's also easy to get them a tooth or so off.

 

vacuum leaks are often a problem too. let it idle and spray starter fluid or carb spray around the engine bay. if there's a vacuum leak the engine will rev/sputter/or die.

 

is the check engine light on?

 

your english is superb!

timing belts might be installed improperly. sounds like it's barely running and when put under load (starting to move), it just dies. it doesn't have the power to move.

 

it's very common to install these belts wrong, they're actually "opposite" in some ways of how other timing belts are installed.

 

it's also easy to get them a tooth or so off.

 

vacuum leaks are often a problem too. let it idle and spray starter fluid or carb spray around the engine bay. if there's a vacuum leak the engine will rev/sputter/or die.

 

is the check engine light on?

 

your english is superb!

 

when i mounted the timingbelts wrong it went like sh*t.

Now when i drove it for 30km it went very good and had all the power it should.

 

Maybe the belt have jumped 1 tooth in the acceleration after the speedbump ?

 

I have to check the belts one more time.

Can be funny to get this car running, theres only 4 of them left in Sweden.

Have you checked the procedure? Here's a good write up.

http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

one thing you may be overlooking is a fuel delivery issue!

 

remove hose at fuel rail end after fuel filter under hood

conect green test connectors, turn key to on and let fuel flow out, should be strong full stream

 

Yay Sweden!!!

 

 

.............

Johnson;782986']Have you checked the procedure? Here's a good write up.

http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

 

I have read that and the EA82 Service Manual about 100 times now

 

Done exactly after them.

 

Everything seems right in the timingmarks but tomorrow i will check som things with MAF, Fuel and the markings one more time.

 

Its going to be a bit warmer tomorrow

I assume that when this trouble happens the engine cranks ok. If that is so you might try spraying some starter fluid into the intake to see if the engine trys to run then. If it still doesn't want to start then I would suspect an ignition problem, most likely due to a bad power connection somewhere.

When i disconnects the MAF the car goes like ************ even on idle.

 

BUT when i connects the 2 green connectors under the steeringwheel

and turns the igniton switch one step it clicks in some relays

but theres nothing coming from the fuelline after the fuelfilter.

 

Not before the fuelfilter either.

 

There not even dripping just nothing

 

Maybe there can be the fuelpump relay or something ?

Or maybe the pump itselfs.

Is an intank pump on this cars ?

What is the easiest way to access the pump on this cars ?

 

I'm really new to them and cant get any help here in Sweden about the cars

fuel pump is under car on fuel filler side, located just before the rear axle

connecting the green connectors puts the computer in test mode, and cycles everything it can, including fuel pump, and waste gate solenoids to help give extra boost when really needed

 

just lay on your back and stick your head under the car by the wheel

you will see a plate held by 3 bolts 10mm socket to remove

That meens that it should come fuel from my fuelfilter when i connects the green connectors.

But thats not happening

 

I will check my fuelpump and see how it works.

This is just a wild guess

 

There is a fuse that runs the ECU and the fuel pump.

 

If the fuse is loose (not likely) or the wire to

the fuse (on the back of the fuse box)

is loose....

 

Maybe the speed bump knocked it off

just so, it sits and cold or something

causes it to close connection,

 

20 meters and the vibration causes it to come loose again.

 

Now it's not making connection and the fuel pump is

not getting it's signal.

 

Just attempting to connect the speed bump to the problem.

 

 

Just for your trouble shooting info

 

The fuel pump gets battery power (+ 12 Vdc) anytime

the ignition switch is in the run position.

 

The ECU provides the negative side to the pump

for several seconds after the key is turned to start and released

or

when ever the engine is running.

(and the cycling you hear when the green connectors are connected)

 

Hope this helps.

wrong-o skip!!

 

fuse link feeds fuel pump relay for power circuit

fuse feeds fuel pump relay for control circuit

ecm grounds coil in fuel pump relay for control circuit

 

to "hotwire" pump remove relay and jumper blue to red fat wires

 

the colors may be different on your year, but the system should be the same

Yeah I also agree that the wire harness for the fuel pulp might be loose. If I remember right, it's a red harness, two wires running just behind the battery on the body rail.

 

At least mine had this issue. Drove me nutz!! I replaced so many things from my wagon just to find loose wires!

Check condition of fusible links near the battery. You will loose spark if the coil bracket is loose. May want to remove it, clean the contact points and make sure the mounting screws are tight. Thinking that jar from the speed bump loosen something.

Now i really think that its a loose connection somewhere.

 

I drove my car for about 10 minutes today without any problems.

And when i was on my way to drive it home it wouldnt start.

 

What do you think about putting an switch on the fuelpump ?

So i manually puts the pump on.

Is that something that would work ?

Or can there be problems if i do that way ?

 

Because i cant find the wires under the hood you where talking about.

I dont have any wires at all around the battery.

Slightly behind the battery there is a rectangular black box, remove the cover and this is were the fusible links are located. I think its attached to your coolant overflow reservoir.

Now i really think that its a loose connection somewhere.

 

I drove my car for about 10 minutes today without any problems.

And when i was on my way to drive it home it wouldnt start.

 

What do you think about putting an switch on the fuelpump ?

So i manually puts the pump on.

Is that something that would work ?

Or can there be problems if i do that way ?

 

Because i cant find the wires under the hood you where talking about.

I dont have any wires at all around the battery.

 

I've seen a car with a manually wired fuel pump and it caught fire from an oil leak but its very unsafe if you ever get into an accident and it doesn't shut off. Now when you connected the green connectors, did you put the key into the "ON" position and not the "ACC" position? It will only cycle the fuel pump in the "ON" position. Another way to test the fuel pump is to disconnect the line at the fuel rail on the engine and crank it over. If you have fuel at the engine, thats where it'll be. I'm also wondering if there's sediment in the tank that picks up after its running, drops off when its not.

I have also noticed that if the car is cold, the computer will not operate the realy, even if the test connector is connected

 

now I just keep a jumper wire handy for this reason

remove relay and install jumper wire

after car warms up, replace jumper wire with relay and all is good

 

I suggest if you are going to add a switch, to connect it to the blue and red fat wires of the relay plug so that if the relay were to not turn on the pump, you could turn on the switch which does the same function as the relay

 

the colors may be different on your year, but the system should be the same

Slightly behind the battery there is a rectangular black box, remove the cover and this is were the fusible links are located. I think its attached to your coolant overflow reservoir.

 

Ahh that box.

 

But its no fuses in it

Just jumper-wires. As it seems.

 

But i will check it later on today.

 

 

and about the Relay, where is that located ?

Is it next to the hood opener ?

 

and as Caboobaroo said about sediment.

The car has been standing for 2 years with about

1 gallon of fuel in the tank.

Maybe there has made some sediment.

Maybe rust in your tank, tap the fuel filter on the ground and look for rust. Those "jumper wires" are the fuses, they are called fusible links.