You got one of the the rear, the block Idea is not to good, We started doing it with the flat bar now too.............

 

Jeff

 

Yeah, I saw that you guys had issues with the block in the rear, so I used flat bar instead. I still want to run a brace across the face of the flat bar. But it will be fine for now. I can't wait to get my wheels and tires mounted up!!

Under your rear seat in your car there should be a little plug in the middle, if you pull that off there is a 19mm bolt if you tighten that all the way it will pick up the back of your car, I don't know if you've done this before or not, but I'll keep going with this. anyways, If you put 2" blocks in the front and your torsion bars up all the way up in the rear, it will sit flat and about 2" higher, we did this with my buddy mikes rig and this is what it looks like

 

Again there is no lift in the rear just the torsion bars and 2 2" blocks on each side in the front.

 

That's a nice easy way to lift it and not put any extra stress on the rear axles of the EA81's

 

Hope that might give you a bit of an Idea for a little lift!!

 

Jeff

i need eye doctor.

What size of tire would go well with this?

What size of tire would go well with this?

 

 

What one? Marcus56's or the red hatch?

 

Jeff

one eye.

Marcus56,

 

Car looks good, thats the perfect setup for looks and useablity in my opinion.

 

It really is amazing how easy all this sounds and in my head i'm telling myself, "you're gonna screw something up" hahaha but I always think that, I only usually mess up 80% of the time.

 

Ok ok ok, i know off topic.

 

The bottom like is your car looks sharp nice job on it. and kudos to jeff for helping out. :banana:

 

 

I think this will be in my very future plans. after valve train loud ticking issue-- and CV axle super noisy issue, (even though they have 4k miles on them) are resolved. (86 gl wagon 5spd 243k AE82).

 

regards,

 

-Caleb

Edited August 28, 200916 yr by Breeke

Mods, please add to the USRM?

I was just perusing the off road modifications section, and thinking that it really needs some new blood.

Holy ************! an almost old thread with good pics that work!

 

thanks for bumping.

Holy ************! an almost old thread with good pics that work!

 

thanks for bumping.

 

Sure, that's why I'd like it submitted.

+1 to be submitted

+2!!!

 

 

Jeff

Oops, I may have gone about this the wrong way...just saw the "submit to mods" section of the USRM.

ok first post have a copple questions will this lift work on a 98 outback yes i know the rear is different would u use the 15 deg on the rear some help please how much tire ware would there be if u just did a strate cut:-\

i dont know if this type of lift will even work on a new gen subaru. I know a few people have done it, but i am not sure how it is done.

ok first post have a copple questions will this lift work on a 98 outback yes i know the rear is different would u use the 15 deg on the rear some help please how much tire ware would there be if u just did a strate cut:-\

 

Your CV's will be at a pretty steep angle.

 

There is also very little room in the rear for block.

 

Without any angle, the camber will be very bad.

 

And personally.....I think this type of lift is crazy.......you are basically relying entirely on each indiviual strut bolt to hold without any flex.

 

Guys do it on EA wheelers, but on a 98 outback, capable of 90+ MPH, it seems like a bad idea.

 

I would build (and I do:grin:) a proper one piece strut top. Probably only one inch though......two inches over stock on an Outback is pushing it.

And personally.....I think this type of lift is crazy.......you are basically relying entirely on each indiviual strut bolt to hold without any flex.

 

 

Think its cazy if you want but it works in the EA cars, Ive tried to kill mine and it still goes............................

 

Jeff

I've got an XT with the longer 2WD struts in the back. I would guess it's about an inch to an inch and a half taller in the rear. Any idea on how I could I go about doing say, a one inch lift in the front? With an inch of lift would the 15 degree angle blocks still be necessary for correct camber?

yes, but an inch block is almost too small to use.

I found some 1 1/4 " 3/16" thick square tubing in my garage! How long are the strut bolts? If they are under 1" I would be fine. Would I still be able to use my sway bar?

I made the blocks and found some bolts in my dad's spare tractor hardware bucket. I took the struts off because the clearance is pretty tight to turn a wrench inside those 1 1/4 blocks. I'm getting ready to put the strut on now so I took a picture of the strut with the blocks on it and set it in the way I would be looking at it from the front of the car with the angled block leaning away from the engine bay. I'm sure it's turned a little to far in the picture because I have not tightened the bolt down yet, but is in the general direction.

 

Looks like you've got the right idea, but, fair warning; getting tools in there with a 2" block is already somewhat difficult without a good assortment of tools (ie wrenches). It's going to be alot tighter with a 1" block. I'd reccomend getting the facing the right direction and bolting them up solid. Also might not be a bad idea to have that upper bolt tack welded to the block, as getting an end wrench up in there is going to be tough.

She is lifted! Installing the strut with the off center block was a little bit of a pain to line up with the blocks already tightened down to the struts. I started by putting nuts on the two square bocks and looking down the hole from above, I used a set of channel locks to grab the angled blocks and turn them slightly to line up.(They were pretty tight and tough to rotate.) I didn't weld the bolts because they stayed in by themselves with the four smaller 1 1/4 blocks. With the angled blocks I had to hold the bolt in from under the fender but it was ok because it was the first one that I put a nut on when doing the final install. With the rest, I used a flat blade screwdriver to guide them through the holes. This offered me some flexibility. I used a ratchet to tighten the nuts and was able to get to each of the bolts with my open end wrench, but it was a close fit. I was able to use the sway bar as well. (I think I'll need it now for sure.) I took her for a little offroad test on a well known trail and didn't have any issues with the bumper bottoming in areas that it had previously or any area for that matter. She still has a bit of that forward lean but not as much as before. I could have gone with the 2" lift for a more level stance and better clearance. I measured 8" of clearance from the bumper. I have new KYB's on the front and I still botomed the strut though. I feel it would really benefit from stiffer springs. Anyone know where to get some for the 4 lug hub and strut?

 

 

I'll take some pictures tomorrow cause it's dark out.

Edited October 20, 201015 yr by 87.5ea82txt

This is what she looks like with front and rear '90 2WD xt suspension with KYB struts and a 1 1/4 inch lift on the front. I very well could have went with the 2" lift for a more level lift. I would suggest that anyone wanting to lift their EA82 without the rear torsion bar to either use 2WD struts or use the single block in the rear. The handling feels quite a bit looser and she does seem to do a bit more bobbing when I weave. I would like to find some stiffer springs as I feel that would help quite a bit in the handling dept. and keep the struts from bottoming. I REALLY need to get some bump stops for these struts. I'm not too sure why the struts I took off didn't have any, but I'm really not too fond of the metal meets metal sound I hear when it does bottom.

 

Just started my lift today! Should be done by the end of the week! I was wondering where the angled piece is placed?

Could I do this easily with me 92' Loyale? I am assuming that I would have to do the rear lift as there is not bolt to raise it under the seat?

Thanks,

Jesse