EA81, I think its a better engine all around. Personaly I don't think of the EJs as being good wheeling motors,

 

 

My EA81 wheeler was amazingly gutless to for my tastes.

 

I say EJ18 or 22

I'd put in one of your carbed EJ22's with a EJ 5spd. Weld the center differential and use the rear output for the transfer case. The lack of low range in the tranny will be made up for by the transfer case and the extra power of the EJ will help.

 

I <3 this plan

today

 

 

 

 

EA81 engine ended up being a EA71 1600 so I went with this EA82 1800

 

 

diff under transaxle 2" forward and 8" down

 

 

 

 

front, engine needs moter mount crossmember

 

side veiw showing diff under stock trans were axles used to hookup

 

 

 

'Tis a thing of beauty! Hope you didn't get too far with installing the EA71.

Quick question, did the 1600 have the side mount starter? If it did, how much would you want for that motor?

 

-Bill

Quick question, did the 1600 have the side mount starter? If it did, how much would you want for that motor?

 

-Bill

 

 

it was in a wagon with dual range , yes side mount , I didnt know till I saw the flywheel with a smaller clutch and decided to install a bigger one but the crank bolt pattern was smaller , $200 sound fair ?

If it was a good runner, I can prolly swing that... Any chance you could hold it for a month or so, I need to get a trip planned to go up that way and swap parts with Jeff anyways....

 

-Bill

If it was a good runner, I can prolly swing that... Any chance you could hold it for a month or so, I need to get a trip planned to go up that way and swap parts with Jeff anyways....

 

-Bill

 

 

its just sittin in the shop, you should go wheelin with us when you come over and also bring Gurus linkage

Sounds like a plan, hopefully I dont break the Beast before then....

 

-Bill

Sounds like a plan, hopefully I dont break the Beast before then....

 

-Bill

 

:-p

pretty sick build going on.

 

one question, it looks like that diff is mounted right side up... doesn't it need to be upside down to spin the right way?

 

does the t-case you're using going to correct that issue?

pretty sick build going on.

 

one question, it looks like that diff is mounted right side up... doesn't it need to be upside down to spin the right way?

 

does the t-case you're using going to correct that issue?

 

yes, the t-cae takes care of the spin direction so the diff just get's mounted as normal...

Must be nice to be taking your time on this one...after that duner module build! I assume it'll be winched, so any bumper plans yet? Maybe the silver tank's, if it's not too heavy.

Must be nice to be taking your time on this one...after that duner module build! I assume it'll be winched, so any bumper plans yet? Maybe the silver tank's, if it's not too heavy.

 

 

Im designing a single 3" tube bumper, somethig we can start making for the masses, going to go look at a toyota tacoma rear axle see how wide it is may get it think its a 4.10

Im designing a single 3" tube bumper, somethig we can start making for the masses, going to go look at a toyota tacoma rear axle see how wide it is may get it think its a 4.10

 

A neighbor of mine has a skateboard slide about that size that I've been eyeballing. zzz

 

Isn't there a soob center diff that's a 1.1 ratio? Using that would get you pretty close to 4.10

early legacy 4.11 I got 2 of them weld up one ?

Yes weld it.. 4:11's are dime a dozen any way.

Measured the Toyota tacoma rearend its 60-1/2" wide , looks like the subaru rear EA82 is 60" so Im going to get it, its a 4.10 ratio so that will work with the 4.11 up front and then I will be able to use same rims and tires front and rear and the datsun truck rearend was like only 55 " wide , so it keeps evolving, set the transfercase under the car , its a tall hummer, looks like I will be cuttting the tranny tunnel out and raise it up a few inches would like the t-case up another 6"

Edited October 1, 200916 yr by Scott in Bellingham
detail

set the transfercase under the car , its a tall hummer, looks like I will be cuttting the tranny tunnel out and raise it up a few inches would like the t-case up another 6"

 

that why I ended up selling mine.

yep, the option here is zuki..........something you can flatbelly.....as much as possible.and remember with the rear that you will have to have a splined driveline to extend with the axle.cheers,brian

Edited October 1, 200916 yr by monstaru

yep, the option here is zuki..........something you can flatbelly.....as much as possible.and remember with the rear that you will have to have a splined driveline to extend with the axle.cheers,brian

 

the other advantage to the zuki is it has a reduction in the high-range as well (I think, correct me if I'm wrong....). which is a big help with a little soob 4-cyl and big tires.

could go zuki but the front and rear inputs are centered so is the nissan, well anyway its just sheetmetel the passengers in the rear wont need that footroom anyway, plan to pickup the rearend tonight

the other advantage to the zuki is it has a reduction in the high-range as well (I think, correct me if I'm wrong....). which is a big help with a little soob 4-cyl and big tires.

 

correct. the high range in the sammy case is 1.4:1 reduction, and when combined with th Toyota 4.10 axle gears, allows me to use 5th gear on the interstate with my 35" tires... better than I could with the stock soobie drive train, and 27" SSRs... with the soob in HI as well....

This is gettin' good. (could you expect anything else from an SJR build?)

 

I've talked to the guy that has the John Deere Brat from WCSS10.

He's doing a Zuki case and cut the tunnel to clear it with the trans in the stock location.

Says the sheetmetal surrounding it will make a nice arm rest. And it's tucked up in with the body. Nothing hanging down.

got the taco rear home, need to find a driveline next checked all the ones I have none fit