O.C.D. Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 I also just saw these: http://recstuff.com/16x6-6-5.5-White-Spoke-Trailer-Wheel.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Those look to be the exact wheels I have. Scored from a junk yard here in town for $5 a wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O.C.D. Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Those look to be the exact wheels I have. Scored from a junk yard here in town for $5 a wheel The first ones I linked to or the last link I posted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Last link. Although mine are 14" So they would be equiv and Id assume identical to these. http://recstuff.com/14X6-5-4.5-White-Spoke-Trailer-Wheel.aspx And currently, 14's actually provide better off-road tire selection for these older Subarus, assuming you do not want to hack a tone of sheet metal to make things fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 For sure, Chevy, Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, all use the correct 6 lug pattern. they are not all interchangeable due to center bore diameter. Also, the imports use a much higher back spacing than the Chevys. I have wheels designed for a Chevy on my 4Runner, and there's a LOT of tire outside the fender. I will be swapping them for some OEM Toyota alloys as soon as it is running. My Brat is running some OEM Toyota steel wheels, and they fit very nicely. Also, Chevy Uplander minivans, and the many variations of it, have 6 lug wheels, with more of a car offset. I'd like to get my hands on a set of those! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O.C.D. Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 So what offsets are you people running then? For a 15x6 would a 3.75 put too much out of the fender? I have located a 4.5 backspacing but I don't know if that would rub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Very good replies! This is really helpful. Idasho, your wheels appear to have the safety bead as well. So I think I might just stick to my guns and buy the wheels I have in mind the first time. O.C.D, Good links as well, and the wheels are fairly priced further more. Chux, Good to know about the manufactures. McBrat has also told me about the Chevy wheels having to much positive offset, leaving a good few inches of tire gapping out of the well (Plus extreme cutting of fenders would be needed for those as well) as seen on the Mnt Grizz wagon. Toyota does seem to have almost perfect off set for the Subarus, I've seen an EA82 wagon with 15" Toyota Alloys, looked good. As for "Offroad tires" the ski wagon isn't going to get the full on Offroad package like my EA82, I'm thinking 205/45/16s, nice firm sidewall like my Legacy used to have. I can still get a decent tread pattern in 205/45s, good enough for Snow/Mud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 (edited) FYI, redrilled alloys is a big BAD. I have two sets: Allied Armament 15" wheels. I think you can still get them from someone at AA, just not from their website. If you email them they'll direct you to the right guy. 80's Mitzubishi Montero rims. They have a thicker and hardened section where the holes are. It appears to be stronger and receptive to drilling. I used a junk yard hub and knocked out 2 studs as a template. Still need to counter-sink with 60 degree chamfer, I think... As for center hole size, I think the 2 wheel drive chevy pattern is ok, but the center hole is too small. The chevy 4x4 center hole is the one you want. All the japanese 6 bolt stuff will work. The center hole on those is ok. It's pretty easy to check since you can measure your old subaru rims. good luck and keep asking questions! Edited April 6, 2012 by kanurys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 I used a junk yard hub and knocked out 2 studs as a template. Still need to counter-sink with 60 degree chamfer, I think... This is what I am going to do when I drill, seems lots more easy them trying to mark it with a sharpie. Thank you for posting the correct degree chamfer I'll need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 No prob. Oh, and 1/2" bit with lots of cutting oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 So what offsets are you people running then? For a 15x6 would a 3.75 put too much out of the fender? I have located a 4.5 backspacing but I don't know if that would rub? Subarus run a relatively high offset. Don't think I've ever seen a 6-lug wheel with too much offset. Stock '86+ toyota 15s are 4.5" BS, and that's what I have on my brat, if I can find something more like 5", I'd be all over that (why I would love to find an uplander in a junkyard!). I think Isuzu runs higher BS than the toyota. Now that I'm not on my phone....pics: Hatch + trailer wheels + swampers = my brat with stock '86 4Runner steelies: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Personally Ive had issues with tire places touching re-drilled wheels. Some people dont though. Hell, even Les Schwab got into a fit with me when I had the 15" pugs on Ned... I told them the lug pattern was the same, not drilled but they said a Subaru of my era didnt come with 15" so they wouldnt mount them cuz its "liability" so I went elsewhere... That's BS because I bet they would mount 15x12" wheels with 33" tires on a Chevy pickup no questions asked. Trailer wheels are tough. Much tougher than alot of the steel wheels I see on cars these days. If you can get the right width I don't see why they wouldn't work just fine. Also agree that unless the wheels are ancient, there's almost no chance you'll find wheels without the inner "safety" beads these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 That's BS because I bet they would mount 15x12" wheels with 33" tires on a Chevy pickup no questions asked. Trailer wheels are tough. Much tougher than alot of the steel wheels I see on cars these days. If you can get the right width I don't see why they wouldn't work just fine. Also agree that unless the wheels are ancient, there's almost no chance you'll find wheels without the inner "safety" beads these days. How old would you have to go back? Back to the days of Two piece wheels with tubes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 (edited) 80's Mitzubishi Montero rims. They have a thicker and hardened section where the holes are. It appears to be stronger and receptive to drilling. I used a junk yard hub and knocked out 2 studs as a template. Still need to counter-sink with 60 degree chamfer, I think... Second on the Mitsubishi rims. Here's mine with a subaru center cap: They have about the perfect backspacing to tuck the wheels without rubbing on the frame too bad at full lock. With 235/75r15's I didn't need to run fender flares and never got hassled by police for the tires sticking out. Edited April 6, 2012 by WoodsWagon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 I don't know to be honest. I wire wheeled some rust off of the rims of some old 15" dayton fayette trailer wheels (4 lug with like a 9.5" spacing, kinda like the old school VW 5 lugs). They were at LEAST 40 years old and they had the "safety" bead. Not THE wheels but this is what they looked like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 How come no one welds up the other un-unsed holes? I plan on doing it. Just need a chunk of Brass I can place behind the hole and then fill with weld, then grind smooth. Problems with this? I don't see any. :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortysayhi Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 How come no one welds up the other un-unsed holes? I plan on doing it. Just need a chunk of Brass I can place behind the hole and then fill with weld, then grind smooth. Problems with this? I don't see any. :cool: +1 I was thinking about that, then the shops have no say in if they were re drilled or not. and it would look clean! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 These are the tires I'm thinking of running on the wheels. Mel Gibson looks thrilled about it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O.C.D. Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Sweet, you are going my route - tires and wheels that cost more than the car, lol. I am so torn between 15*6, 15*7, 16 *6, 16*7....? 3.75 or 4 back spacing. 195, 205 width....I have no idea what will fit on a gen 1 Brat?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 How come no one welds up the other un-unsed holes? I plan on doing it. Just need a chunk of Brass I can place behind the hole and then fill with weld, then grind smooth. Problems with this? I don't see any. :cool: Or just drill extra holes in between each hold in a 6-lug steel wheel... Make is look like a "universal":) Then youd have a 12-lug wheel, with almost infinite ways to mount it on your 4-lug subaru:banana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 +1 I was thinking about that, then the shops have no say in if they were re drilled or not. and it would look clean! I have an old set of 14's that were redrilled along time ago by another board member. He welded up the extra holes. Works fine but after years a few of the "plugs" have popped out of a few holes. So, he didn't get enough penetration......but if he had, I'd be worried about stressing the metal from the welding heat. They are the most wobbly, rough wheels I have, that's all I know. All the ones I've redrilled myself, and left the rest of the holes open, run smooth up to 90+ MPH. And if for some reason, I need to run them on a 6 lug again, I can. If I need to redrill a new set of holes, I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 How come no one welds up the other un-unsed holes? I plan on doing it. Just need a chunk of Brass I can place behind the hole and then fill with weld, then grind smooth. Problems with this? I don't see any. :cool: My cousin has done that on several sets and it looks cleaner, although some tire shops still won't touch them. And, for people like myself, who also have a Toyota or 2 in the fleet... Well, I like to have wheel options.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 You can always go to 6 lug hubs with no redrilled wheels. That way the wheel shop wont give you crap if you bring them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 You can always go to 6 lug hubs with no redrilled wheels. That way the wheel shop wont give you crap if you bring them in. I take it to some old dude, he has seen all the vehicle builds and tire combos I run. So I don't think he'll have an issue. Just mount the tire, if the wheels fall off while I'm driving, its my problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Or just drill extra holes in between each hold in a 6-lug steel wheel... Make is look like a "universal":) Then youd have a 12-lug wheel, with almost infinite ways to mount it on your 4-lug subaru:banana: Here's what that looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.