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Trouble removing 32mm axle nut
Posted 09 July 2012 - 07:44 PM
Posted 09 July 2012 - 07:52 PM
Put that on your socket through the middle of the wheel with it sitting on the ground with the brakes on or wheel chocked, then jump on the breaker bar. Or, slip a pipe over it and lean on it with lots of leverage.
Posted 09 July 2012 - 07:54 PM
How about a LONG cheater bar? I have a 6" hunk of steel pipe I put in my long snapon 1/2 breaker bar.
And I also have a snapon 3/4 I guess breaker bar - one bent piece of steel I have for my air cooled VW rear axle nuts.
I know you're stuck. But I'm really thinking heat is a bad idea.
Question - why you removing it - as in what's already gonna need replacing.
Posted 09 July 2012 - 08:44 PM
like, breaker bar/cheater pipe on the ground and gun it in reverse.
Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 10 July 2012 - 07:48 AM.
Posted 10 July 2012 - 01:17 AM
i have often the same problem on the big clutch hub retaining nuts in motorcycle engines and its a relatively clean way to solve this
the CV kits come with a new nut anyway
Posted 10 July 2012 - 06:39 AM
I get funny looks walking into the junk yard with it, but I always get them off.
Posted 10 July 2012 - 07:01 AM
I have a 3' snapon 3/4 breaker bar.
We broke the pin on one of those trying to get the rear axle nut off an old bug that had been in storage for 20 years - it was a mess.
Snap-on guy couldn't believe we broke it. Luckily I had another one that is just a bent hunk of metal almost like a lug wrench in your trunk that's Snap-on 3/4 drive. Don't know how much we may have bent it but it still works!
Funny as it sounds until I spent big bucks for an impact I bought an electric impact (AC Delco) that would often actually break things loose and air powered one wouldn't. IIR one of the things in this category was sometimes the crank bolt without anything holding the crank, and some lug nuts.
Posted 10 July 2012 - 08:47 AM
Edited by unibrook, 10 July 2012 - 08:50 AM.
Posted 10 July 2012 - 09:10 AM
I once owned a '48 Willys Fleetvan that had left-hand thread lugnuts on one side of the vehicle.
Posted 10 July 2012 - 10:51 AM
Posted 14 July 2012 - 01:52 PM
So i'm prepping the trans for removal, are there any tips/advice you folks have? I do have a copy of the factory manual.
Posted 14 July 2012 - 10:53 PM
if it's the front diff then junk the trans and get a used one...did you check the trans/diff fluids?
save the rear extension housing for the center diff (manual trans) or rear clutch packs/Duty solenoid (auto trans). nice to have on hand if yours goes out later or they're usually needed by someone and easy to sell.
as to axle nut removal - a 5 foot pipe will never cease to work.
i have a 950 ft-lb 3/4" impact and I've had one or two that it couldn't get off. my 3 foot pipe over the handle wouldn't work on those either, took a longer pipe - like 5 or 6 footer so i'm figuring it was over 1,000 pounds to get off...probably rust around this forsaken area
Edited by grossgary, 14 July 2012 - 10:56 PM.
Posted 14 July 2012 - 11:22 PM
probably rust around this forsaken area
I had to read this twice.
Posted 15 July 2012 - 11:31 AM
Oh yeah, the trans oil looks red'ish as it should.
Posted 15 July 2012 - 11:39 AM
Thanks for your help.
Posted 15 July 2012 - 02:03 PM
Posted 16 July 2012 - 11:12 AM
What do you folks think of fab'ing a strut tower cross-bar to support the weight of the motor before i separate the two?
Posted 16 July 2012 - 11:14 AM
But HF has actually a rather nice support bar often onsale for 50 bucks.
You can't take the time and materials to make one for that IMO.
It gets used here all teh time for VW timing belt jobs and transmission swaps.
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