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why does my auto trans downshift when I brake?


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1999 legacy outback with an ej25. I know I probably need to know what type of trans but I am learning. Coming down I70 back into Denver going with the flow and I had to brake, but when I did it kicked into third and would not shift back for an uncomfortable time over revving. The second or third time it happened I manually downshifted to third then back to D and it was much faster. What is going on with my baby? Also on a side question, is there a place where I can find this info without bugging you guys?

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I was not using cruise control. I recently acquired the car so I have been thinking about changing the fluid on principal. I was wondering if it was something nice but will probably do the fluid change in the near future. It also hesitates when downshifting under power. Let's see if it fixes it.

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I have a '99 Legacy GT wagon with the same engine and trans as your car.  Unfortunately, you're experiencing the intended operation of the transmission, as Porcupine73 mentioned, above.  It will downshift back to third when you touch the brake pedal while descending a hill.  It was a nice idea in theory, but in reality it's not so great....especially with the hills you've got out there.  And as Porcupine73 said, the transmission won't upshift back to 4th until the PCM senses that you're back on the throttle.

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

If I just drain it and refill three times how much approximate fluid will I need?

depending on the engine, ej22 vs ej25,

the trans holds about 10.5 qt. of fluid.

a drain will net you about 3.5 qt. of ATF.. (maybe more, maybe less)

based on these numbers,

3 drain and fills, with driving in between each,

will replace about 80% of the old fluid.

 

ATF is one of the few fluids that can and will benefit from an 80% swap..

engine oil is not happy if you leave 20% in the engine.

but the trans  fluid, (basically hydraulic fluid) does not care.

 

so do the trans fluid replacement,

and see what you get.

it cannot hurt.

 

TIP:

if you measure, or weigh the amount of fluid  you ''drain'',

you will know EXACTLY how much to add.

and you will not need to question the ''hard to read dip stick''.

 

good luck.

Edited by johnceggleston
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I have full syn cam 2 multi vehicle atf in mine. But i had a professional machine to do the service and paid 100 bucks for efficiency of the procedure. Perhaps a fast lube shop would be best considering you would pay as much as half of the service for the fluids alone. I also am using mobil1 75w90 front and rear diff.

 

I chose synthetic for 2 reasons:

I work at a fast lube and the brands are available to me

Having done the fluid changes, i could virtually forget about it for another 120,000 mi. I can always check or monitor my fluids at any time. 

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  • 1 month later...

OK, so I did it. Drained almost 7 quarts of black atf and replaced the spin on and filled with 7 quarts of red fluid. For clarification, I have a 2.5. I was very ssurprised to drain so much fluid, but I did need to pop out to the parts store and left the plug and filter off so it could drain. What is the total capacity of this tranny? How many more times should I do this? Should I change the filter each time? Thanks so much for all you guys help!

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The capacity is 12 qts. when filling a new transmission and torque converter.  8 qts. for a full fluid change.  Also, considering what you're telling us, I suggest you also drain and fill the front diff.  DON"T use 90W in a Subaru! Use 70W85 or whatever lower multi grade there is.  They keep changing the weights: it's hard to keep up.

 

Dexron 3 is what's indicated for a Subaru ATF, incidentally.

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The capacity is 12 qts. when filling a new transmission and torque converter. 8 qts. for a full fluid change. Also, considering what you're telling us, I suggest you also drain and fill the front diff. DON"T use 90W in a Subaru! Use 70W85 or whatever lower multi grade there is. They keep changing the weights: it's hard to keep up.

 

Dexron 3 is what's indicated for a Subaru ATF, incidentally.

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