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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Ball Joint Help

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12 replies to this topic

#1 Jibs


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Posted 06 January 2006 - 01:30 PM

I'm trying to swap a driver's side front axle today, and I am having trouble getting the steering rack ball joint out from the control arm. I don't want to wail on it with the hammer and ruin the threads. I've been using a larger bolt to act as a cushion, is this the right thing to do? Anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks.

#2 dentedfender


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Posted 06 January 2006 - 01:33 PM

if your talking about the tierod ball joint just hammer right off to the side of the ball joint, on the tie rod. You could also put a nut on the balljoint and make sure it is more than 3/4s of the way on and hammer on that directly on the ball joint.

#3 Free Range

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 01:41 PM

axle changes shouldn't require messing with either outer tierod ends, or ball joints, loosen axle nut, jack up car, pull the inner control arm bolt and swaybar bolt on control arm(if so equipped). the hub and axle will have plenty of flex hanging from the strut to walk off trans side when you pull down on the control arm.

" talking about the tierod ball joint just hammer right off to the side of the ball joint, on the tie rod. "
-yup, smack the hell out of the front side of the hub just below the tie rod end, should fall out...

#4 torxxx


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Posted 06 January 2006 - 01:45 PM

WOAH WOAH WOAH you guys are getting way too into this.

To change an axle on the front of any subaru. TAke the tire off, castle nut off, brake caliper/rotor/pad bracket, unbolt the strut from the knuckle assembly, punch the pin out of the inner DOJ (the one that goes to through the tranny stub shaft) now pry your control arm down and pull the strut out of the knuckle. pop the Inner DOJ off the stub shaft and then hammer out the axle from the knuckle.

Done job, just reverse to intall

#5 grossgary


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Posted 06 January 2006 - 01:55 PM

i've only done XT6's, but all you need to do on them is loosen the top strut bolts, remove the two bottom strut bolts and that's it. remove axle, put the other one in. i hear XT6 people talk about tie rods and ball joints too, i don't know why they remove all that. it's a little tight getting the axle out, but beats fighting rust and stubborn bolts.

again XT6 specific, but always remember less is more.

#6 rallyruss


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Posted 06 January 2006 - 03:45 PM

there are lots of ways to gain enough movement to clear the axle.

I personally pop the tie rod out and lower ball joint. you do NOT hit the tie rod itself. smack the nuckle with a BFH and it will pop right out. leave the nut threaded on to protect the threads in case you miss and hit the tie rod.

#7 Meeky Moose

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 03:49 PM

i've always pulled the ball joint out when doing my axles..
when you mess with the strut by taking it off the hub it messes with the alignment as well.. the frozen caster mainly.. thats why when you replace struts you almost always have to do an alignment afterwards :)

now you can unbolt it from the body and not hurt the alignment..

i had a ball joint stuck in my DL wagon, after breaking my hammer, pry bar and an 8lb sledge the damn thing finally came out..

i did have to buy a new one tho.. its funny how they let you know when they need changed like that..

wait till you put an axle in something and have to pull it a month later and the stupid thing is stuck on the trans.. thats another story though.

seriously though, go get you a balljoint fork from the parts store.. heck some parts places loan them out.. it'll make your headache go away.. really..

#8 Jibs


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Posted 06 January 2006 - 05:08 PM

Yeah so far I have had to take the castle nut off, and unbolted the inner control arm guy, and I SHOULD have enough room if I get this tierod off. Its in there good though.

#9 TomRhere


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Posted 06 January 2006 - 07:27 PM

No need to mess with Tie-rod, just need to get some movement of the knuckle here. Either pull the lower control arm pivot bolt, or remove the ball-joint from the knuckle by removing the pinch bolt. I prefer the Ball-joint/knuckle separation myself.

Once that is taken care of, you just turn the steering wheel towards the side that you're working on. This will give you plenty of swing-out room, with out messing with the tie-rod ends.

Is not a good idea, nor safe practice, to use a pickle-fork type ball-joint/tie-rod separator on one that you plan on still using. For one, you'll rip the boot for sure. Two, it puts un-do stress on the joints in the wrong way and is detrimental to the way they were designed to work. I have seen pickle-forks pull the joint apart rather than separate them from a steering knuckle.

Just my .02

#10 ballitch


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Posted 06 January 2006 - 08:12 PM

i like the other way.......remove the bolt that attaches the lower control are to the body.......remove the sway bar mount on the lower control arm. (for driver side axle) turn wheel to the right, opposite for the other side. by turning the wheel you can get in behind it and it allows you to pull out on the knuckle.


#11 TheSubaruJunkie



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Posted 06 January 2006 - 08:16 PM

Your doing it right Jibs... just use a larger hammer.

Just so you know, I remove the tie rod ball joint when I do my CV's too :)


#12 dave valiant

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 09:36 PM

tried a pickle fork

#13 singletrack


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Posted 07 January 2006 - 01:30 PM

i like the other way.......remove the bolt that attaches the lower control are to the body.......

Totally. With no sway bar, it's just the one bolt and the 36mm. It takes longer to get the tools out than the axle!

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