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EA81 Weber Install Q's ...


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18 replies to this topic

#1 Subarutex

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Posted 27 January 2006 - 12:53 PM

Ok, after bucking and surging all the way into work today, i've finally decided that putting the weber I have sitting around on my Brat needs to be done sooner than later.

I'm trying to compile a parts list of what I will need, and a good idea of how to proceed, so this goes as smooth as possible.

What I have so far:
Weber 32/36 (water choke)
Weber adapter (one piece)
New air cleaner assembly

What else do I need?
Vac. caps? what size?
Anything for the linkage?
What about deleting or blocking all the emissions garbage?

Any Weber Vets want to help me do this? Ed? :brow:
I doubt I could buck the brat all the way down south, i'd sure to get a headache!

Also... I know some people have some nifty tricks on how the hitachi linkage/return spring work with the weber.. I'd love to hear them!

And yes, I have searched, even read the pictured install in the USRM. Just looking for some more clarification.

#2 85Sub4WD

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Posted 27 January 2006 - 04:39 PM

Sorry - But I had to ask why the water choke? My experience with them has been rather bad (not weber specifically, but I had to deal with them on british cars). I think it would also be a lot harder to route the coolant lines for it than the electric or manual choke version.
Thanks :)

#3 Jibs

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Posted 27 January 2006 - 04:46 PM

I'd also like to know a little more on the install. Tex - I bought a couple of valve cap sets from SummitRacing.com, they were 6$ for a set of 20. They contain a few different sizes.

EDIT: Here's the link to those vacuum caps:
http://store.summitr...t=egnsearch.asp

And here's a link to what you want to do with the Valve Cover hoses:

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=46314

#4 Subarutex

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Posted 27 January 2006 - 05:24 PM

Sorry - But I had to ask why the water choke? My experience with them has been rather bad (not weber specifically, but I had to deal with them on british cars). I think it would also be a lot harder to route the coolant lines for it than the electric or manual choke version.
Thanks :)


Well... I got a used $40 Weber. It has water choke. From what I understand, i just can't buy an electric choke, it would involve cannibalizing another weber.

I've already found the water lines, right off the front of the intake manifold, that should work perfect for plumbing it.

#5 Subarutex

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Posted 27 January 2006 - 05:28 PM

I'd also like to know a little more on the install. Tex - I bought a couple of valve cap sets from SummitRacing.com, they were 6$ for a set of 20. They contain a few different sizes.

EDIT: Here's the link to those vacuum caps:
http://store.summitr...t=egnsearch.asp

And here's a link to what you want to do with the Valve Cover hoses:

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=46314


Thanks for the links Jibs! That one on the PCV's will really help. I'll probally just get my Vac. Caps from my local auto store... just trying to figure out what exact size I need to pick up. I spose I could stop by there with the brat... hmmm...

#6 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 27 January 2006 - 05:39 PM

Your major issues are going to be what to do with the fuel return line, and the accelerator cable. Here's the best step by step I can think of at the moment:

1. Drain coolant.

2. Remove old carb and manifold. I feel it's best to just start with the manifold off the car. You have to drain the coolant either way, and this way you can clean the mating surfaces easier, put some anti-seize on the manifold bolts, remove the vacuum hard lines, and replace the manifold gaskets as well. Use ONLY the dealer ones - even the Fel-Pros have not proved reliable for me. The ones from the dealer (manifold, and thermostat) are metal with a rubberized coating, and will last nearly forever.

3. Remove the Air injection system either completely (have to weld up the ports in the spacers under the head), or block them with quarters in the pipe going to the valve. Remove all related tubes and plastic silencers.

4. Remove the carbon canister, it's mounting bracket, and all hoses. The Weber has no float chamber vent that can be routed here (one reason it's not street legal I suppose), and you might as well vent the tank to the air anyway since the carb is already.

5. Replace the fuel filter/vapor seperator with a single inlet/single outlet clear fuel filter (the kind they sell generic at the counter). When I bought my weber they made me buy one anyway for $2.50 so as not to void my warranty. Remove all associated lines no longer used.

6. You have two choices for hte return line - you can install the two way barb from the hitachi and have the return line go to the carb where it was before (my preference), or you can just use the Weber as is, and cap the return line at the firewall. Both seem to work fine.

7. Remove all hard lines, and any vacuum valves or feedback carb "bits" and associated parts from the manifold. Get it all good and clean, and cap off the vacuum ports you don't plan to use (you will need the brake booster port, and at least one other for the line going to the heater control valves.

8. You can either try to keep the EGR (in which case find or buy the one that has no port for the anti-backfire valve (early 80's EA81's) so you can eliminate that too... or you can make a block off plate for it. Doesn't seem to matter which you do, but the Weber does have the port for the EGR.

9. Put the throttle cable attachment point from the Hitachi on the Weber.

10. Mount the Weber to the manifold, and use good new gaskets and some gaskachich on those so they will come back off easily if need be.

11. Mount the clean manifold to the clean engine.

12. Relocate the throttle cable mount to a lower point on the manifold, and attach the cable. Might have to bend it a little to get it right. Just make sure it's pulling from a good angle that won't wear through the cable.

13. I use the return spring from the Hitachi, and attach it to the Weber air cleaner. Drilling a small hole in the metal of the air cleaner helps.

14. I imagine you would hook up the choke here - never done a water - only electric. With the electric I like to run a new circuit with a relay for both the choke heater, and shut-off solenoid (if equipped).

15. Run a vacuum line from ported vacuum on the weber to the Disty, and if you like to the EGR valve as well.

16. Attach the fuel line to the weber, refill the coolant and start it up. Adjust the timing (might take a few days) so that it doesn't diesel when shut off, and it should be good to go.

Almost forgot - the PCV routing - Just hook up all three (PCV, and both Valve cover vents) to the hole in the base of the Weber filter. That's really all they need is filtered air. If you think about it, that's how it's routed stock too - it's just that the PCV and right side cover come in together, and the left side cover has a different port in the air box. Same difference though.

I may have missed a few things - shooting from the hip on that one. Been months since I installed one.

GD

#7 spanky_pete

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Posted 27 January 2006 - 06:09 PM

Wow, GD is back from the dead. :cool:

I've run a couple of the little Holleys(copies of the Weber)with water choke before, they're a complete pain to dial in just right. Although, with the manifold sitting right on top of the motor you might have better luck. I was installing mine on an Chevy Inline 6 where the manifold hung off the side of the block.

As was mentioned already. Parts stores have bags of assorted size vac. line caps you can buy pretty cheap. You never know when you'll lose one.

#8 BobBrumby

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Posted 27 January 2006 - 06:30 PM

I modified my accel. cable holer using a vice and a hammer. Straighen the old in the vice. then posstion the piece in the vice so the 10mm? bolt hole will have enough room and hit with hammer till bent 90 degrees. now put the other end in vice again so it just has enough room to get the cable on bang this out the other way. Now you should have almost z section and a straight pull from the end of the cable sleath to the throttle plate.

#9 Jibs

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Posted 06 February 2006 - 09:06 PM

I have a few questions. The whole carbon cannister just comes out and gets thrown away? And if I put the barb from the hitachi on the weber, will I have to cap the barb to keep fuel from spurting out? Right? And does the weber manifold cover the small antifreeze hole in the manifold? It looks to me like there is a sliver that doesn't get covered. Thanks.

#10 edrach

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Posted 06 February 2006 - 10:27 PM

Tex, I'd be glad to bring my Brat over to you. A picture (or the real thing) is worth a thousand words. However, Skip's description is as good (or better) as any. If it's not in the USRM, it should be. Anyhow, I'd go down to Bow Wow in Lynnwood and get the linkage adapter from them and only costs $10; you'll waste more than $10 worth of your time trying to fab something different. I also have a neat trick for plugging the ASV ports....I bought brass plugs which are a perfect interference fit inside the ASV and pressed them into the pipe. It's esthetically pleasing and does the job quite well.

#11 LUVMYBRAT

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 05:07 PM

can some one post a couple of nice close up pics? I just got a weber and would like to see the actual set ups, although the write up so far has been very good. One question mine is a 32/36 with electric choke but instead of a "DGAV" it's a "DFAV" what's the meaning and the difference?

#12 edrach

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 05:16 PM

can some one post a couple of nice close up pics? I just got a weber and would like to see the actual set ups, although the write up so far has been very good. One question mine is a 32/36 with electric choke but instead of a "DGAV" it's a "DFAV" what's the meaning and the difference?

DFAV is a mirror image of the DGAV; when mounted the throttle linkage is on the driver's side instead of passenger side. I have installed one of each in my Brat and my son's Brat and I actually like the DFAV better since it doesn't seem to interfere with the distributor cap as much as the DGAV. I'll take some pics of both when I can and post them.

#13 LUVMYBRAT

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 05:41 PM

cool thanks, I was hopin that it would still work. The individual I got this from has others 1 is a 28/36 and there is a couple of others some with water chokes. I know that 32/36 is the popular one but would others work? I have more than 1 car that could use the advantage of a better carb system.

#14 DaveAP

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 07:18 PM

One of the better posts these days. I'm going to copy this one for the collection. Thanks, dp

#15 edrach

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 08:33 PM

The 28/36 might save you some gas since the 36 secondary normally doesn't open until you hit 3500 rpm. After that, I don't think your car, or you, will notice the difference.

cool thanks, I was hopin that it would still work. The individual I got this from has others 1 is a 28/36 and there is a couple of others some with water chokes. I know that 32/36 is the popular one but would others work? I have more than 1 car that could use the advantage of a better carb system.



#16 edrach

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 09:38 PM

Here's the link to my weber installs:
http://www.ultimates...ery.php?cat=812

The new software has thrown me for a loop. There should be 7 weber photos in my Weber album; labelled DGAV1, DGAV2, DGAV3, DFAV1, DFAV2, DFAV3, and DFAV4. Somehow the tail-gate photos that I had previously uploaded into my Stuff for Sale album have shown up here also and the labels have disappeared and all the photos are Weber Installations or some such. Basically, the DGAV carb has the linkage on the passenger side and the DFAV has the linkage on the driver side. The fuel lines also are reversed. I used the stock Hitachi linkage on the DGAV and I have a hokey throttle return set-up (don't laugh, it looks hokey but it works just fine). The DFAV has the $10 throttle return linkage I bought at Bow Wow which I really like and has a nicer return linkage than my setup. I actually like the DFAV better even though it's a 28/36 since it doesn't interfere with the distributor wiring as much as the DGAV. Both webers work just fine (thanks to Cameron in Oz who rebuilt them both for me a long time ago); you might find his fine post on plumbing and adjustment if you search for it---I sure hope it isn't lost in all our transitions. If there's something not clear that I could take a better picture of drop me a PM with your need and I'll try to get a better shot for you.

#17 LUVMYBRAT

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Posted 15 February 2006 - 12:17 AM

great, I'm just happy to have scored a weber(hopefully more than one) for my growing stable of cars. It'll probably be a while before I actually put it on but I'm saving this thread for assistance for sure. Thanks

#18 edrach

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Posted 15 February 2006 - 01:09 AM

One of the nice things about Bow Wow is they sell weber adapters and linkage adapters and such at much lower prices than the usual weber outlets. Unfortunately they are not a national chain.

#19 LUVMYBRAT

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Posted 15 February 2006 - 09:40 AM

this linkage adapter, is it found at any regular checker, advanced auto, or other parts store. I have the intake adapter plate already.




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