Posted 27 January 2006 - 05:39 PM
Your major issues are going to be what to do with the fuel return line, and the accelerator cable. Here's the best step by step I can think of at the moment:
1. Drain coolant.
2. Remove old carb and manifold. I feel it's best to just start with the manifold off the car. You have to drain the coolant either way, and this way you can clean the mating surfaces easier, put some anti-seize on the manifold bolts, remove the vacuum hard lines, and replace the manifold gaskets as well. Use ONLY the dealer ones - even the Fel-Pros have not proved reliable for me. The ones from the dealer (manifold, and thermostat) are metal with a rubberized coating, and will last nearly forever.
3. Remove the Air injection system either completely (have to weld up the ports in the spacers under the head), or block them with quarters in the pipe going to the valve. Remove all related tubes and plastic silencers.
4. Remove the carbon canister, it's mounting bracket, and all hoses. The Weber has no float chamber vent that can be routed here (one reason it's not street legal I suppose), and you might as well vent the tank to the air anyway since the carb is already.
5. Replace the fuel filter/vapor seperator with a single inlet/single outlet clear fuel filter (the kind they sell generic at the counter). When I bought my weber they made me buy one anyway for $2.50 so as not to void my warranty. Remove all associated lines no longer used.
6. You have two choices for hte return line - you can install the two way barb from the hitachi and have the return line go to the carb where it was before (my preference), or you can just use the Weber as is, and cap the return line at the firewall. Both seem to work fine.
7. Remove all hard lines, and any vacuum valves or feedback carb "bits" and associated parts from the manifold. Get it all good and clean, and cap off the vacuum ports you don't plan to use (you will need the brake booster port, and at least one other for the line going to the heater control valves.
8. You can either try to keep the EGR (in which case find or buy the one that has no port for the anti-backfire valve (early 80's EA81's) so you can eliminate that too... or you can make a block off plate for it. Doesn't seem to matter which you do, but the Weber does have the port for the EGR.
9. Put the throttle cable attachment point from the Hitachi on the Weber.
10. Mount the Weber to the manifold, and use good new gaskets and some gaskachich on those so they will come back off easily if need be.
11. Mount the clean manifold to the clean engine.
12. Relocate the throttle cable mount to a lower point on the manifold, and attach the cable. Might have to bend it a little to get it right. Just make sure it's pulling from a good angle that won't wear through the cable.
13. I use the return spring from the Hitachi, and attach it to the Weber air cleaner. Drilling a small hole in the metal of the air cleaner helps.
14. I imagine you would hook up the choke here - never done a water - only electric. With the electric I like to run a new circuit with a relay for both the choke heater, and shut-off solenoid (if equipped).
15. Run a vacuum line from ported vacuum on the weber to the Disty, and if you like to the EGR valve as well.
16. Attach the fuel line to the weber, refill the coolant and start it up. Adjust the timing (might take a few days) so that it doesn't diesel when shut off, and it should be good to go.
Almost forgot - the PCV routing - Just hook up all three (PCV, and both Valve cover vents) to the hole in the base of the Weber filter. That's really all they need is filtered air. If you think about it, that's how it's routed stock too - it's just that the PCV and right side cover come in together, and the left side cover has a different port in the air box. Same difference though.
I may have missed a few things - shooting from the hip on that one. Been months since I installed one.
GD
