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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Painting your Old Mess


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13 replies to this topic

#1 hardtail_pride

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 01:43 AM

So the time has come to start thinking about repainting my wagon. I spray painted it last summer and now it needs a new look. This time i will sand it somewhat and intend to use an actual spray gun if its not too expensive to paint with. Anyways Im kinda looking for good looking cheap paint job, but spraypaint isn't holding up, so its the gun or rhino liner. But i know both can get expensive fast. Let me know what your preference is! :Flame:

#2 baccaruda

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 01:45 AM

http://ultimatesubar...ht=rattle paint
have fun! :grin:

#3 [HTi]Johnson

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 02:12 AM

I've seen some crazy results with rolling rustoleum on. Looks like arma coating, and is strong. As for a paint gun, check harbor freight. Look for a HVLP (high volume low pressure) gun. Make sure you get a regulator to step the input air down. As for paint, rustoleum is good for spraying, thin with Acetone. Those are your cheap options. You can try Krylon Fusion paint.

Just remember, your paint job is only as good as the effort you put into preparation. Sand it, remove dust, prime it, paint it. Maybe wet sand it after each coat of paint.

#4 Bucky92

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 02:27 AM

Johnson']
Just remember, your paint job is only as good as the effort you put into preparation. Sand it, remove dust, prime it, paint it. Maybe wet sand it after each coat of paint.


This is the most important part!!!! Its been almost a year since I rattled my XT6 and the paint is still holding up well...found one spot with a flake. I used the car was with the wax built in and contribute that to helping it hold up ...I do have some fading of the yellow on the mirrors though. Also a few coats of clear coat with wet sanding with 1000 grit or higher between each.

#5 xt6_4_life

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 03:23 AM

Good luck with the paint job.

What exactly is wet sanding? I need to find myself a garage so i can get my 6 painted too. Then to draw attention away from possible "miss" spots im gonna lay down some custom design vinyls.

#6 [HTi]Johnson

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 04:06 AM

Wet sanding is when you use really fine sand paper to sand a paint job. It's done by putting the paper in water and then sanding, or you can spray the water on with a spray bottle. It's like buffing it. Takes imperfections out and makes the coat more even.

If you think you're going to try this, google the how-to. Because I can't explain it well enough.

#7 heartless

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 08:46 AM

preparation is THE most inportant part of any paint job - without good prep even expensive paint will look like crud.

when wet sanding it is VERY important to KEEP the area you are sanding wet at all times to wash away the residue or you will end up with some nasty looking scratches that will be difficult to remove.

using a spray bottle, a sponge or even a hose just dribbling water over the area is key to a good wetsand.

That and using the correct type of sandpaper - there is paper made specifically for wetsanding - usually black in color, and comes in a wide range of grits, from 100 to 2000. the closer you are to the final finish, the higher the number you want to use.

#8 Numbchux

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 10:30 AM

go through this thread:
http://board.moparts...=0&fpart=1&vc=1

and read just about every post by 69 chargeryeeha on page 1. he painted this charger with a roller for about $50:
Posted Image

I intend to try the same method on my wagon....

#9 The Dude Abides

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 10:55 AM

go through this thread:
http://board.moparts...=0&fpart=1&vc=1

and read just about every post by 69 chargeryeeha on page 1. he painted this charger with a roller for about $50:
Posted Image

I intend to try the same method on my wagon....




http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx

Try this websight, from the same people on the dodge forum. The problem with his paintjob is that he couldnt get it to shine quite as brightly as the regular painting process, but at the websight ive provided they show a slightly more expensive method but youve got more color options and higher shine rate. Though he said his rustoleum paint hasnt chiped in 3 years. Just my 2c

Ben

#10 Stevethefolkie

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Posted 14 February 2008 - 09:43 AM

preparation is THE a hose just dribbling water over the area is key to a good wetsand..

Very true - but either tape over the metal threads, use a rubber nozzel or cut the threaded end off - if you ever want to feel really stupid scratch your (almost done, close to perfect) black paint job with the threaded end of a hose :eek: (don't bother to ask how I know).

For a true glass smooth surface use some mild soap in the water you're wetsanding with - it lubricates the (already fine) 2000 grit sandpaper -

Also - make sure the paint is really dry and fully hardened before you start wetsanding - waiting a week or two is worth it.

Follow your wetsanding with a rubbing compound (finer than the paper) - then seal the surface and give it a good wax job. Even using cheapo rattle can paint you can, with time, patience and effort, end up with a great paintjob.

#11 grossgary

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Posted 14 February 2008 - 09:50 AM

here's a $64 example done by a buddy of mine with Walmart paint and some semi-proper sanding:
http://subaruxt.com/...ighlight=dollar

#12 MilesFox

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Posted 14 February 2008 - 03:35 PM

as already stated preperation is most important

i have spray painted many many cars so i will share with you my tecnique and expertise

the cheap wal mart primer is just as good ans any top brand primer. the walmart stuff you can buff down with a scotch brite pad or even a paper towel between coats.

rustoleum or duplicolor paints work best for final coats. the cheaper wal mart pant will fade and axodize without a clear coat.

the rustoleum will last long without a clear coat. the duplicolor or anthing with a flake splarke will look best with a clear coat.

tape off everything and remove what you can beofre the final spray.

find a place out of the wind, work on one direction uniformally, and dont stop in the middle of a coat!

if you have new cans, use the first top hald of each can for horizontal surfaces like the hood and roof, and use the bottom half of the cans for vertical surfaces like doors and fenders.

if taping off between colors allow the first coat to dry so the tape doesnt take it off. dont leave tape on too long or it will leave residue on the paint. peel tape sharply away opposite of the edge to not peel up the paint with it.

your concentrated wheel dressing mix sprayed on after a wash when the car is still wet acts like a wax for spray paint. apply wit a spray and wet cloth.

lift off the button between passes since this is painting, not scribbling like you do with an eraser. overlap your passes so they blend uniformally. if you get the light angle just right you can watch the paint melt into itself.

if a coat looks rough it will melt into itself as it spreads out.

if a coat looks to thin, keep going anyway as long as the paint is smooth, and the paint will cover better on your 2nd or 3rd coat.

i recomment 2 coats of primer and 2-3 coats of paint.

for each color, or type of paint, it takes about 1 can for the hood, 2-3 cans for the sides, and 2 cans for the top/rear, roughly 6 cans each coat

6 cans of primer and 6 8 cans of paint should get you about 2 coats each

#13 s'ko

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Posted 14 February 2008 - 03:56 PM

go through this thread:
http://board.moparts...=0&fpart=1&vc=1

and read just about every post by 69 chargeryeeha on page 1. he painted this charger with a roller for about $50:
Posted Image

I intend to try the same method on my wagon....


painted my brat that way..

here are some comparison pics
Posted Image
Posted Image

#14 Buddy

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Posted 21 February 2008 - 11:35 AM

i'll would just paint it with a crayola crayon :lol:




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