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Installing SJR lift kit


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19 replies to this topic

#1 grossgary

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 12:05 AM

I'm not seeing how these pieces are to be used on the SJR 2" lift kit. The front strut tops are obvious, everything else has me confused.

http://www.sjrlift.c...rapper&Itemid=3

on the top row is the two longer rentagular channels.

below those are the 4 angled pieces.

in the center are the 4 small blocks. These were in a bag with the 4 longest

#2 bratman18

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 07:34 AM

The two long rectangular pieces space down the front cross member, and then 4 angle pieces are for the rear struts, you spin the rear strut top around and they bolt right up. He spaces the front cross member down a bit to give the axles more room to move so they don't hit at all. You would have to extend you steering shaft a bit for this.

#3 Gloyale

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 10:27 AM

The two long rectangular pieces space down the front cross member, and then 4 angle pieces are for the rear struts, you spin the rear strut top around and they bolt right up. He spaces the front cross member down a bit to give the axles more room to move so they don't hit at all. You would have to extend you steering shaft a bit for this.


You can use a Legacy steering coupler, it is already extended about an inch compared to stock EA82 coupler.

#4 bratman18

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 10:29 AM

You can use a Legacy steering coupler, it is already extended about an inch compared to stock EA82 coupler.


Yeah I used an Outback one when I lifted my Brat

#5 grossgary

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 10:53 AM

sweet, thanks guys.

so the two long pieces that space the cross member just lay flat on top of the ends of the cross members, spacing them maybe 1/2" or so?

how do you install it - remove the bolts and....support the crossmember with a jack, then lower it a bit once the bolts are removed?

"spin the rear strut top around" - what does that mean? if you spin it around 360 degrees it'll be right where it started? i know that's not true, but that's how it's in my head!

#6 Numbchux

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 01:07 PM

yep, when I did the lift on my wagon, I jacked up the car a bit, put jackstands under the crossmember. then used 2 jacks, one on each side, to lift the car from the framerails until I had enough clearance to fit the crossmember blocks in there.

rotate the rear strut top 180. that, combined with 2 of the little angle pieces pushes it down and out a bit.

#7 grossgary

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 04:06 PM

still not sure how those 4 blocks are supposed to be used for the rear diff? i know there are 4 bolts holding the diff to the rear hangar/bushing, but i'm not seeing how those blocks do anything since it's also bolted to the rear mustache bar and that huge 22mm/17mm bolt through the bushing.

Edited by grossgary, 14 June 2009 - 04:08 PM.


#8 bratman18

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 04:30 PM

You don't touch the rear diff at all. You simply drop down the rear struts. You rotate the rear strut tops 180* and then bolt them up with the little angle blocks. Leave the diff as is

#9 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 04:47 PM

If you are moving the diff, the whole mustache bar gets spaced down generally. There are other methods but it sounds like that's they type your's is.

GD

#10 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 10:12 PM

OK looking at this picture
the top row is the mustache bar blocks and longer bolts for that
the next row is the rear shock extensions ,yes rotate the tops 180, the 4 long bolts and the 1" long pipes drop the diff ,
and then of course the front strut extensions , this is the first version , the new one comes with a front engine crossmember 1" block as Ive found on some not all installs the axles rub, Scott


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#11 grossgary

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 12:30 PM

the 4 long bolts and the 1" long pipes drop the diff

thanks scott. guess it'll be obvious, but those 4 1" spacers go above the diff to space it downwards?

#12 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 10:48 PM

thanks scott. guess it'll be obvious, but those 4 1" spacers go above the diff to space it downwards?



correct, the stock bolts are welded in need broke out

#13 zukiru

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Posted 17 June 2009 - 12:17 AM

whatcha liftin?

#14 TheLoyale

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Posted 17 June 2009 - 12:52 AM

whatcha liftin?


+1 me wanna know too :)

Can't wait to get my kit! =)

#15 grossgary

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Posted 17 June 2009 - 11:45 AM

whatcha liftin?

my daily driver XT6

#16 TheLoyale

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Posted 17 June 2009 - 04:01 PM

my daily driver XT6



Ooo cool1 You don't see a whole lot of lifted XTs, But there are some. :banana:

Make sure you get pics during and after! :)

-Tom

#17 grossgary

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 07:07 AM

I'm confused - it seems the description of parts here is different than in another EA82 SJR lift kit thread. In my thread the longest bolts are for dropping the rear diff.

In this thread:
http://www.ultimates...?t=99881&page=3
They are for the front cross member?

So my kit came without the front cross member blocks/bolts and the other kit came without the long bolts for dropping the rear diff?

Why is that?

I don't mind fabricating extra pieces, but want to get right what I've got when I go to do it.

#18 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 11:01 AM

I'm confused - it seems the description of parts here is different than in another EA82 SJR lift kit thread. In my thread the longest bolts are for dropping the rear diff.

In this thread:
http://www.ultimates...?t=99881&page=3
They are for the front cross member?

So my kit came without the front cross member blocks/bolts and the other kit came without the long bolts for dropping the rear diff?

Why is that?

I don't mind fabricating extra pieces, but want to get right what I've got when I go to do it.



correct I now send out the crossmember 1" block as on some installations the axles rub , you have my first 2" lift I sent out so it does not have the 1" engine crossmeber spacer , the picture at my store needs updated

#19 grossgary

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 02:53 PM

thanks scott. i'll install a 1" block of i have rubbing axles.

so the other guy didn't get the rear bolts for dropping the rear diff? just curious why that is, are they not necessary?

being that i know nothing about lifts, it's better to keep that stuff tucked up under there for ground clearance if the axles can handle it right?

#20 TheLoyale

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 07:55 PM

I see you found your answer, hmmm. I am a little puzzled by not having the longer bolts for the diff. As I am new to lifts aswell :) I am sorry for being green this subject.

btw, can someone post a pic in this thread or in mine of were the axles tend to rub? I've been looking at my axles and I can't see where they could hit (On some installations)

-Tom

PS: Sorry I can't post a link to my thread, I'm using my PS3 (Firmware doesn't support copy/paste)




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