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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Bolt-in EA series Alternator upgrade. Nissan Maxima alt installation guide.


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218 replies to this topic

#126 91 subaru

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 07:22 PM

Thanks GD. Great info you have here. Thanks for posting

#127 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 07:50 PM

Trying to clean up my pictures and hosting.... here's the pics for this thread:

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GD

#128 discopotato03

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 05:06 PM

Hi all from Adrian in Australia , can someone please post the part numbers from the Hitachi sticker on the 90 amp Maxima thats fits EA81/EA82s . I have the EA82 Hitachis one piece double pulley and can modify the spacer but need to identify the correct Nissan alternator , ADM Maximas may have used different alternators . Anyway it should be something like LR190-*******

Thanks in advance , cheers Adrian .

#129 discopotato03

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 06:59 PM

From searching for Hitachi and 86-94 SOHC Maximas it looks like the part numbers are LR190-711F 14661 or LR190-709B .

Can someone confirm please , cheers Adrian in Oz .

#130 discopotato03

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 04:46 AM

I went into a U Pull it wrecker today and found what I think is a Z32 300ZX non turbo alternator . It looks just like the one in the pics above but I think its 80 amp instead .

The numbers on its ID sticker are 23100 30P00S followed by LR180-724 . I trial fitted to an L EA82 AC car and It'll work with a pulley change and a freshen up .

Hope this helps us Aussies and y'all Stateside .
Cheers A .

#131 zukiru

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:02 AM

I went into a U Pull it wrecker today and found what I think is a Z32 300ZX non turbo alternator . It looks just like the one in the pics above but I think its 80 amp instead .

The numbers on its ID sticker are 23100 30P00S followed by LR180-724 . I trial fitted to an L EA82 AC car and It'll work with a pulley change and a freshen up .

Hope this helps us Aussies and y'all Stateside .
Cheers A .


appreciate the 300zx tip that wil open up the options more at the junkyard.

#132 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:56 AM

Yeah I think the 300ZX alts are the same size and ear pattern for quite a few years. Problem is the Z31 alts are only 70 amp and the Z32 alts are 80 amp - compared to the Maxima at 90 amp. And both are harder to find in the yards. The Maxima alts are plentiful, cheap to buy new (for some reason Z32 alts are up around $200 and Z31 alts are the same price as Maxima units), and more powerful.

GD

#133 zukiru

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:02 PM

just seems like I find more junked zs than I do maximas. either they arfe keeping the maximas up, or they were scrapped a long time ago....

not sure which. :-\

#134 discopotato03

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 08:49 PM

I've never seen a Maxima here with the LR190 90a alternator on it here and I need to replace a loaner one I found out last night was off an MY wagon so probably an old LR50 50a .
Actually my LR180 was sitting in the dirt in the rain when I found it and now we've removed its rear casing to look inside at the bearings and brushes . You have to carefully support the inner side of the front case and press the rotor back through the front bearings bore to get it out . Then you remove the keeper plate that retains the front bearing in the nose of the case .
The rectifier and voltage regulator are bolted in the back of the rear half of the casing so they'll come out for a cleanup and diode test .
Fingers crossed these are all good and worst should only cost bearings and brushes .
It would be interesting to know the internal differences between the 80 and 90 amp versions and if even higher output internals are available .
I am surprised that my LR80 being off I assume a Z32s four cam VG30DE engine has the earlier Maxima alternator casings , BTW our Maximas are east west front wheel drive where Z32 are not .

Not sure which USDM Maximas are - FrWD/RWD .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03, 03 February 2012 - 08:52 PM.


#135 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 09:56 PM

Our Maxima's are also transverse FWD. And our Z32's are also RWD :-p.

GD

#136 zukiru

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 10:40 PM

Jdm Maxima had a ”Cefiro” version that is RWD. There is a good chance of those turning up in OZ.

#137 discopotato03

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 09:39 PM

.Part numbers .
USDM 85-94 J30 Maxima Alternators .
LR190-709 or
LR190-709B or
LR190-711 .

LR180-724 is the Z32 300ZX NA one I have and its internal bearings are NSK 6201DW rear and NSK B17 102DW3 front . They are available through CBC bearings at approx 9 and 38 dollars .

I have not seen one yet but I noticed 2004+ Nissan XTrails have a Hitachi LR1110-713 which is 110amp output . Its Nissan pt no 2300-AU420 .

A .

Just a side note , your USDM spec Nissans seem to get higher output alternators than our ADM ones . Maybe they have more electric add ons and need more current .

Cheers Adrian .

Edited by discopotato03, 06 February 2012 - 05:26 PM.


#138 PadreScout

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 12:53 PM

Welp, I got a 94 Nissan Maxima alternator, built by duralast - part # 14661 at autozone. It doesnt fit, there's some bushing in the mount that wont fit into mah car. I would consider filing it to fit except the plug is wrong as well and well, this is looking bleak.

pic of the offending part: Posted Image


in summery- the 94 year model alternator seems to be a no go.

#139 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 01:05 PM

in summery- the 94 year model alternator seems to be a no go.


The bushing in your picture is a friction fit inside the ear. You can easily move it with a punch and a hammer. Flip it around if neccesary.

All the listings I have seen say that '86 to '94 Maxima's use the same alt. Look on Rockauto.com for pictures and click on their part numbers for interchange info.

The plug IS different. That's a given. You have to remove the plastic from the Subaru spade's and slip them onto the male spades of the Maxima alt. Or solder in the Maxima (also 95 to 98 Subaru) alt connector.

And finally - Duralast makes GARBAGE parts. Return it and get a proper alt from Bosch, etc.

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 04 March 2012 - 01:08 PM.


#140 PadreScout

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 01:08 PM

The bushing in your picture is a friction fit inside the ear. You can easily move it with a punch and a hammer.

All the listings I have seen say that '86 to '94 Maxima's use the same alt. Look on Rockauto.com for pictures and click on their part numbers for interchange info.

The plug IS different. That's a given. You have to remove the plastic from the Subaru spade's and slip them onto the male spades of the Maxima alt. Or solder in the Maxima (also 95 to 98 Subaru) alt connector.

And finally - Duralast makes GARBAGE parts. Return it and get a proper alt from Bosch, etc.

GD



Copy that, I'll make it hapen, thanks for advice. On a side note the belts got to replace mine are wrong as well. the A/C, WP, .. something else belt is too short. Its fun times! I'll crack this baby yet.

#141 discopotato03

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 06:22 AM

Hi all , just back to round off as my hitachi alternator went in my L RX Turbo sedan last weekend . Just to fill in the gaps my XT4 retrofitted engine had the aircon removed so its using the standard non AC alternator brackets .

What I had to do was use a longer bolt plus spacers because the alternators "adjuster" side ear has a plain hole unlike the threaded std alternators ear . The spacers are to fill the gap between the sloted bracket and that alternator ear .

There is a very simple solution to the wiring , the std alternator plug is a very common style and you can easily buy those plugs as a male and female set with terminals . Its very simple to use the female half of the plug and terminals to make an adapter sub loom . I always get alternator connectors if I buy them from wreckers (breakers) and if you do this you can fit the female plug to the newer alternators plug wires and plug it to the cars existing alternator connector . Aside from being easy the advantage is that you can fit and plug in a std alternator if you ever have to ie if you change cars and keep the fancy spark maker .

Other reason I came back was because I scored a Hitachi LR1110-705 110a alternator from a 95 A32 Maxima today for $35 and after a clean up and test it will go in my imported R33 Skyline . It will replace the std Mitsy 80a one so it too has extra capacity .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03, 06 March 2012 - 07:38 PM.


#142 92_rugby_subie

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 12:29 AM

Posted Image


Success!

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GD or Idasho:

Can you use the fan still on the Maxima alternator?
Its on the first picture that Idasho has, but not the second one?
Id think you could, the spacer would just be shorter would it not?

#143 Crazyeights

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 12:49 AM

The Maxima alternator should have an internal fan so I don't think you need to worry about it.

#144 92_rugby_subie

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 12:58 AM

The Maxima alternator should have an internal fan so I don't think you need to worry about it.


Good point, I was just on my way back inside to read that Id seen a fan type thing inside the alternator casing...

Thanks!

#145 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 12:58 AM

You cannot and should not use the fan. As noted the Maxima alt has an internal fan like an EJ alternator. That is one of it's many benefits.

GD

#146 Petersubaru

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Posted 04 June 2012 - 11:31 PM

has anybody installed a smaller pulley on there maxima alt. and would there be any benefits gained at idle by doing so, maybe with more amps being produced... also i have noticed on my friends 1 wire gm alt that the pulley is 65mm in diameter while the subaru is 72mm...

Edited by Petersubaru, 05 June 2012 - 07:51 AM.


#147 Idasho

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 06:00 PM

Unless you are running some serious lighting, a smaller pulley is not needed.

A/C, Fans on high, high beams, and 200watts of off road lights on mine, and it doesnt faze it at idle.

#148 Petersubaru

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 06:36 PM

Unless you are running some serious lighting, a smaller pulley is not needed.

A/C, Fans on high, high beams, and 200watts of off road lights on mine, and it doesnt faze it at idle.

...nothing extra added on..finally my orginal loyale alternator would not produce enough amps when needed and would stall the motor ..heater fan, headlights and then the brake light would kill the motor...installed my reman. maxima alt only to find out, it to, will bog down when the heater fans are on etc.. it works better then the old one since it does not stall out, but the rpms will drop 150 -200 depending on what is running..also along with the new alt is a new battery and ground wires from the body to the tranny and to the battery ground...also checking resistence between both battery posts and alternator to neg battery has only a difference of 0.3Volts...other places of checking resistence have only 0.02V...I am totally bewildered on this one...

#149 Stubies Subie

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 07:47 PM

My old stock 65 amp (or what ever it was) alternator went out, so I stopped by GD's house on my way to work to see if I could buy one of these Maxima 90 amp alternators from him, and not only did he sell me one, but he had it installed in my car and I was back on the road and on my way to work in less then 15 minutes, this has to be the simplest upgrade I've ever seen.

#150 Idasho

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 08:51 PM

...nothing extra added on..finally my orginal loyale alternator would not produce enough amps when needed and would stall the motor ..heater fan, headlights and then the brake light would kill the motor...installed my reman. maxima alt only to find out, it to, will bog down when the heater fans are on etc.. it works better then the old one since it does not stall out, but the rpms will drop 150 -200 depending on what is running..also along with the new alt is a new battery and ground wires from the body to the tranny and to the battery ground...also checking resistence between both battery posts and alternator to neg battery has only a difference of 0.3Volts...other places of checking resistence have only 0.02V...I am totally bewildered on this one...


Your problem isnt the alt.

Its the drop in RPM. Either something like your heater fan is on its way out and is drawing too many amps, or you simply need to bump the idle up a bit.




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