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Ahh, I got ya now. I didn't see your location.

We got the L series in Oz from late ‘84 through to ‘94. Other names used state side I believe are Leone, DL, GL etc. the wagon isn’t known as a Leone, only the sedan. The GL is the up-spec model so no window winders there due to power windows. The Legacy’s and Imprezas that don’t have power windows will also work I believe. Cheers Bennie

Which L-series are you referring to? Legacy L/Brighton?

I think it's where it's got the dealer add-on AC system. I have another wiring harness that came with this from a non-AC model and it doesn't have that fuse.

Window cranks/winders: can use L series units when you find good ones. There were some models that came with some sweet metal winders that never perish in the heat. There will be some (I think) ABS printed window winders on the market sometime soon. They’re in the testing phase now and really look the part! Hope this helps. Cheers Bennie

I assume Subaru realized that the fuse box was no longer big enough for all the loads on their newest models... and rather than putting in a bigger fuse box, decided to just do *THAT*! If it works with a new fuse, I wouldn't investigate too hard unless it blows again - it can randomly blow if anything (leaf, mouse, etc) jams the blower wheel.

So, what are my options on window cranks? I've got a couple that have suffered the effects of age and the splines have stripped out on them. Did anyone ever make aftermarket ones that slid on? I've dealt with this problem on 4 different EA81s. Also, I have some replacement hatch struts but the previous owner has lost the brackets on the left-hand side one where they attach to the body. Does anyone have those laying around? Thanks!

Yup, fitment chart shows "74-"97. Thanx!

Me too. Have never replaced an axle. I watch mine and replace when they leak. Noticed long ago the quality of Subaru rubber and how long factory boots lasted. After market/parts house boots not so good. Ebay sellers have couple outer NOS boots, no inners. Guess I'll order BECK/ARNLEY 1032129 from Rock. Rubber for these old cars getting hard to get. Wonder how many still running>

Try looking for an EMPI 86-1098-D. See if the boot shape matches. :]

The chrome bumpers is what I always look for on these to indicate 2wd vs 4wd.

Since no one said it yet, yes we still love pics on here!! You’re doing well there. @bushytails - good pick up on the 2wd setup! What gave it away? As for wheel bearings on the rear, they’re like trailer bearings, get a new set and swap them on - change the bearing races on the hub too. No shortcuts! Cheers Bennie

Did you use the Brat’s fuel tank or bring the one over from the wagon? If using the Brat’s fuel tank I reckon it’s getting clogged up as you drive, fuel starvation then occurs as the pump struggles to get fuel to supply the engine under load. This doesn’t match what you said about your fuel pressure readings though. Is the ignitions switch on the Brat good? These can sometimes cause intermittent issues but seem more likely to die outright rather than a slow, twitchy death. Maybe list the things that are similar/same between the two vehicles that were swapped and not swapped. Something might show up there. Eg: - fuel lines - fuel tank - body harness - EJ power “pick up” points - where? Changed/same? Cheers Bennie

I’d argue that new boots on an old OEM cv shaft assembly is well worth the effort if it’s not left to grind along with loads of road grime, water and dirt in there. A mate of mine swears by stretchy boots. I saw one (now a meme somewhere) that wrapped the boot around the shaft a number of times when the gizzards of the CV joint let go for whatever reason. The CV joint was rebuilt on the side of the road and the boot reused! I’ve used various aftermarket boots with good success. I next time I’ll be trying these stretchy boots. Cheers Bennie

When you buy the entire CV axial, the boots will last for a couple hundred thousand miles. What the subaru mechanics like to do it coat them with a fluid that causes them to disintegrate in about 3 weeks, so you will be back in 4 weeks to have even more work done. It is generally a waste of time to put new boots on a high mileage CV axial. Replace the entire assembly.

Yep, if you can change just the glass it's less work. All of them I've had the side tracks/guides were broken and required a complete replacement.

June 17, 2025. After a while of being without my 1984 GL wagon because the clutch cable broke, I finally pieced her back together with new parts. It now operated the clutch cable wonderfully. I drove her to a friend's, whom I get my used parts from, to show him she was back on the road. He was happy as well. After I had left his place and headed home, I encountered a three-way involving a highway curve that I had to navigate. Traffic oscillating from one way, then traffic from the other way, and so on. I got excited and jumped at the chance to go. Shame on me. I burned off in first with a naughty burnout, followed by a speed shift slam into second, producing a chirp, followed with the same third, sans a chirp, rather, when a horrible sound I'd never heard before, sounding like a mega heavy gear grind! A memory flash suggested a reading I'd done where the author had engaged 4WD as a temporary bailout "fix". I did so and all appeared good for the time being. I babied the car home where she sat until today, the 18th of July. I got brave, and without much choice, I drove her back to my friend and discovered that I had apparently eaten a hub, I have a couple of spare hubs, so this will keep me occupied. A hard lesson as we are both are getting up in years. Her; Sept 1983 = almost 43 and me; 69 1/2. I've gotta knock off the hot rodding and give her more appreciation, have fun all and the best to ya!

Just learned Subaru has obsoleted them, the aftermarket boots don't last. Anybody able to help?

are you sure? well, according to this subaru pdf its just 8 nuts and glass comes off (tahts all i need to change) see page 5 stil linterested in compatability of SF, SG, or else.... or3_body_15.pdf

It's not a hard job, but very labor intensive. - Remove all the interior trim around the windows to drop the headliner. Do it when it's warm and there is less chance of the plastic pins breaking. - Remove the headliner, drop the seats so you have the most room to turn it and get it out the rear hatch without bend it too much - Disconnect the sunroof wiring and drain tubes - Unbolt the sunroof, 2 helpers make it easier. - Reverse to install the used one. If you have access to self-serve yards, you can practice on a yard car. I know some of the slide hardware changed from year to year. If you change the complete frame that issue goes away. Best of luck!

Well, out the blue my GF's 1st series Forester cracked the sunroof Nothing hit it, but now im reading that this simply happens sometimes luckily looks like replacement work should be easy, but trouble is finding a used one (not about to pay 600-700 for new) any idea if glass from SG, SH fits too? seems easier to find used P/N are different, but that could be just shade color etc.... Tnxs

Looks like my replacement worked just fine, been driving it around for a couple of days with no issues. Not exactly sure what it could have been. I'll just have to keep checking it periodically for any signs of wear.

What! I can’t believe everything I read on the internet? Haha.

Yep, you have an electronic throttle. The throttle position sensor is built into the actuator. Replacing the sensor means replacing the throttle body. The sensor you're looking at is manifold pressure. Just because an ebay listing says it fits doesn't make it true.