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I found a NOS factory security system. I bought it for the novelty and don't know if I'll use it (maybe if I ever get an RXII). Car theft isn't an issue in my area, thankfully. P/N: SOA386R100 There's still a couple available on eBay, there's photos there. Has anyone had experience with this specific factory security system? I'm curious how it works if anyone knows. The switch labeled "shock" intrigues me. :]

small update - no photos. I bought a new subframe, can't put it off any longer and I'd really like to get this thing back on the ground on its own four wheels again sometime this year if I can. I'll likely need to end up buying or modifying the lateral linkages too, but like I've been saying - one thing at a time.

I'd be reading up on this generation. Any turbo'd Subaru is a gamble, IMHO. These had suspension, headlight bulb, along w/the turbo engine issues - Ringlands, VF40 turbo failures, etc. If you like to work on your cars - and can get parts in AK - they are a fun car...but maintenance intensive. They also had an HVAC/ICE/stereo integrated system so no easy HU upgrades.

Yeah- used - if AK has any options up there. Or RA for KYB struts - and you'll need a spring compressor. Pretty sure the good brands don't make (nor maybe anyone at this point) a full front or rear strut assembly for the 90s Legacy.

Hi, There should be many posts on here about the Duty C - used to be a daily/weekly topic on this forum as some of the mid-90's suffered a failure/issues. start here: It's located in the tailshaft (?) end of the transmission but can be replaced w/out dropping the trans, but is a project. Don't know your budget for the driveshaft, but I'd be OK buying used as I haven't read about this being a common failure. Should be the same part from '95/96-'99 for the Legacy - all Automatic (not manual) models.

A good selection of bulbs and sockets packed and ready to ship. I just need your name and address. I looked through the emails on my phone today and could not dig it up. I know you sent the info. Please resend to: Lmdew2@gmail.com

I have a bad vibration and knocking from the rear or centre of the car when accelerating. Through my process of elimination and visual inspections and pry testing I think the centre drive shaft support bearing is causing the bad vibration/knocking. I cannot find a drive shaft Intermediate support bearing, or an affordable drive shaft. So, I tried to switch my AWD to FWD only, but it appears the 'transfer duty solenoid' is not functioning. When I install the fuse to hold the solenoid switch in place the dash light says FWD but I still get acceleration power to the rear wheels/driveshaft. There is no vibration / knocking when coasting at any speed. So, I think, if I can it in FWD only my problem would be resolved, for a while at least. I cannot find a new replacement solenoid, so can anyone suggest where I can find or what I can do to run it in FWD only? And could someone tell me where the 'duty transfer solenoid' is located and is it easy enough for a mechanically minded DIY'r to replace?

Ordered 2 new Cardone axles from Walmart.com. They were actually way cheaper than RockAuto and had free shipping. Changed just the clicking driver side this afternoon. I only drove it enough to pull it out of my shop and into the next bay but I didn't hear any more clicks.

Thanks so much bushytails! Very much appreciated!

Went to get a pic... but the Hitachi dist in my '83 wagon is completely different. I found this googling, and it has a pic that should do it: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=21289 Black with white is positive, yellow is switched / coil negative / tach /etc.

Checking in to keep this string alive, I am wanting to get back to the brat with the addition of a canister in the loop but have been pulled away in other directions. A good goal for me is to close this issue in case it might help someone looking for solutions in the forum. First task will be to tighten up the trans shifter as it won’t let me get reverse. When putting the 2.2 in, I added some plastic sleeve material to the bore in the trans shift rod to take some of the slop where the ball end of the shifter seats, and didn’t see any bad wear in other sleeves but that didn’t work. I need to change the grease seal on the trans shift rod anyway. I think I’ve finally gotten the correct seal in hand. Fingers crossed, I can take care of these things and then get back to fuel vapor pressure and purge control. Thanks for advising.

Thanks for your help. PCV valve is working and the hoses are good and clean with no air leaks. Turns out that my oil filler cap was not sealing, so i fixed that. What I am not understanding is how a "too lean" exhaust [from poor crankcase ventilation] would cause smog test numbers to increase HC at the 15mph test??? Wouldn't "too lean" mean that less fuel is being burned? And, my ignition timing was at 27 ahead of TDC when that 2023 smog test was done. It is now at the correct 20 before TDC. Getting it smog tested in two days.

Hello, How do I open these links? I need the access tuner for a 2005 Subaru WRX but when I click on the links nothing will open.

You can use a cereal box to make those gaskets. Done it many times with no problems.

HNL - COS or Fort Collins, CO. Depends on the day. Happy to help.

Glad you’re on the mainland, Larry. Don’t think I need anything right now but as always it’s great that you’re there for us diehard old Subaru owners. Tip of the hat. Cheers!

Good luck with it. I hope you keep that momentum rolling forward. Most inspirational.

Other side repeated today. Also took the opportunity to fit up the impreza wheel wells and strut towers I've saved. I cut the middle sections of the angle iron frame I tacked on when removing them, then using some more angle as a bridge I clamped them back together. I ended up somehow sacrificing a tape measure doing this, but I'm getting some momentum back in this project so if a cheap tape measure is the cost to get this back on the ground sooner over later I'm glad to pay it. I'll need to do a little more surgery to get them to fit truly properly, especially since the filler neck is on the opposite side of the vehicle, but I suppose if I'm doing this much fabrication that will be somewhat trivial. I'll also likely be cutting a lot of them out to fix some rust in them anyway, but it's a good start. Going to set this aside for a little while and return to the subframe setup. Any permanent install of these towers here is severely premature. Once I have a base I can measure from to get the strut towers to a proper height and location, I can start poking at this in more detail.

Sent out today!

No go on the gaskets. They weren't in my gasket collection. Is there no results when you search the P/N?

Thank you all for checking your stashes and everything, I’ve got one coming to me.

I appreciate it. the 2" lift is more than I'm willing to go. So stock rear coils I'll stay. I for fronts at all of those subaru vehicles rockauto doesn't even list the fronts anymore. I may have to fab up actually separate shock mounts, which will be interesting.

You could get some gasket material and trace the spacer to cut out your own gaskets. You could also use the tube. I'm not familiar with the 2nd gens as much so I'm not sure if they're a paper gasket or a metal graphite composite. I might actually have some gaskets at home, I'll have to check. I have an EA81 sitting around for something someday and it came with a full gasket set. I'd be converting it to TBI anyways so I don't need the carb gaskets. I'll message back here later today or tomorrow and let you know. :]

1+ on KYB. If you have time and search the yards, I've found almost new KYB struts for <$50 each. Complete, just unbolt and bolt the replacements on. Has to be your lucky day in the yards.

I have a few. Address to Lmdew2@gmail.com Larry