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Even on the EJ25D? I thought these were a thick composite gasket which was half the issue with these engines… Curious. Cheers Bennie

Amsoil has a great fluid.

I definitely considered buying a different H6 Outback and swapping the suspension over. Overall this seemed like less work and definitely less cost. Exactly. Yes, my brother bought this one for me in California, and while it's no longer completely rust free it's still pretty solid. Figure at least $3000 including transportation to replace it. Which makes these things a bargain really. And this car is relatively stock aside from the suspension and bumper/skidplate. But it's still cheaper to fix this one. Plus either way we'd wind up refabbing the skidplate and radiator/bumper support or whatever you want to call it. And I've been thinking for years about fabricating a better lower radiator support for these cars from scratch rather than just adding a piece of tubing underneath. On that topic. We started by getting the radiator support back into place so the hood would latch and line up. Then remounted the bumper so it sat level and square with the lights and fenders. 2" square tube going back at least a foot into the stock "frame rail" with a mounting flange for the bumper welded on the end. This is the only part that will be permanently welded on the car. Below you can see the square tube is only tack welded to one side of the frame rail. When we get things more solidly mounted the plan is to hammer at least two more sides of the frame rail flush with that tube and weld them also. Then B cut and fit a piece of 3" square 1/8" wall tube where the stock lower radiator support was. Since this is about 3x as thick as the stock radiator support and significantly larger section, plus an actual piece of tubing rather than a couple of stampings folded/spot welded together, I think it's easily 10x as strong as stock. Not that what it's attached to will be very strong. We will pick up about 1" of ground clearance/approach angle. Also by chance the stock radiator mounts we unbolted should line up great by just welding them to the backside of that tube. Got the main part of the engine skidpan straightened back out, bolted back up, and replaced some tubes. Have tubes almost fit from the big square tube radiator support to the bumper beam. Need to figure out exactly how I'm going to make the tabs and piece of sheet metal there. I know what I want just need to figure out the most efficient order of fitting/assembly. Then we still need to add a few more tubes but it's coming together. Ordered some new hoses and tubes for the oil cooler.

It is here, too. But getting another rust free shell is no small feat in this part of the world. IIRC he travelled to California for this one. Not to mention the modifications already done to this one. That looks pretty nasty, but all ahead of the suspension mounts, so it doesn't need to be mm perfect.

Yep, Subaru shows 879996 as the Transmission serial and 424274 for the engine (IIRC stamped into the engine block next to the starter).

The 4EATs are not picky about what fluid to use. You can buy Dex III, it's usually labeled Dex/Merc (Dexron/Mercon). That's the cheap conventional stuff, works great, meets all the specifications. I buy 2.5g house brand jugs of it at Fleet Farm. All Dexrons are backwards compatible. So you can use those. Most will be synthetic (certainly anything you can find new) Subaru officially superseded to HP. So anything that meets Subaru HP will also work. This will all be synthetic. This is what we carry and use (I work at a Subaru dealership) I honestly think the change to HP was just to use a synthetic so they can extend suggested service intervals and/or in an attempt to reduce resistance for better mileage. I have not found any part or seal that changed part number when they switched to the HP. If I had a newer 4EAT, I'd dump conventional dex/merc in it.

Correction. All SOHC EJ25s list single layer. All DOHC EJ25s have MLS. At least in the US. There are several MLS gasket part numbers, they changed through the years. The most common problem number ends in 633, and can be replaced with number 642.

You mean dexron VI? IV & V apparently don't exist. Most word is the VI is not the same as III and often doesn't work well in older trannys, even though the claims say it is backwards compatible.

Check out dextron IV - the description will no doubt tell you that it’s suitable for vehicles where dextron III is recommended/required. Cheers Bennie

Manual calls for Dexron III, but since that is no more what is best to use? I see so much conflicting and indeterminate information. Subaru HP? Valvoline Maxlife? Dexron VI? Aisin T-IV? Has Subaru issued any kind of definitive recommendation? Thanks.

When squeezing the return line and getting the higher psi reading, how does the engine run? Better or worse? Cheers Bennie

I checked the troubleshooting table in the FSM for "Engine stalls after initial combustion". All the following are what it says for the fuel injector: Poor contact at terminal (could be at the injector connector itself, an issue with the wiring in the harness, poor connection at the wiring harness connectors (large black connectors near the driver side strut mount), or poor connection at the ECU. Performance characteristics unusual (maybe the mesh "birdcage" on the injector is dirty or it's sticking.) (To check if it's sticking, place the business-end of a screwdriver on the metal body of the injector and put the handle on your ear. Put voltage to the injector BRIEFLY LESS THAN A SECOND and listen for the "click-click". One click for power on, one for power off.) Clogged filter. I'd check the injector, mate. You've got a good pump, lines are clear, new filter, good regulator. Really the only other component in that fuel circuit is the injector. Maybe the mesh birdcage sieve is dirty? Either that or the injector is borked? Injector resistance should be between 0.5-2ohm (measured on the connector on the injector). If the injector tests okay and is clean on the sieve/not sticking, check the engine harness for damaged wires or poor terminal contact. (I doubt it's a contact since squeezing hose has nothing to do with electrons) :]

I believe my model only has one fuel filter in the engine bay which I swapped out. I blew out the hoses with compressed air and reconnected. Didn't seem to make any difference. Out of curiosity, I pinched the outlet hose on the pressure regulator with my pressure gauge still attached (in line after the filter but before the regulator) and was able to get a reading of 40psi. With this in mind, could there be an issue with the fuel injector being stuck partially open and not allowing enough pressure to build for a correct psi reading in front of the regulator?

Did you check that fuel filter down near the fuel pump? Too bad you had to go buy that pump but it'll give you more peace of mind in the future. Plus you can keep your old one in the car as a spare if you're ever in the situation you need it. If you do have to replace any rubber fuel hoses, Codan makes hoses that are the right diameter and are very good quality. Check out Volksbolts, they've got a good write up on fuel hoses. If you ever need some reading material.

Ok got that pump installed. Still only getting 19/20psi from it though... going to inspect my fuel lines and blow some air through them to see if there are any blockages.

Geez, that front end took a fair hit! It’s worse than I thought it was going to be. I love how you look at the issue and go “we got this” and get stuck into it. Over here that would be a write off for a regular vehicle unless it was something special to its owner and they either know how to fix it or know someone that does and is willing to do the work. Looking forward to the detailed pics of the work done! Cheers Bennie

I could really use a copy for a 2007 STi

If you can't get it with a slim jim, there's a kit with a hand-pump air bag, a wedge, a long rod with a hook, and some other accessories you can use. This is the kit I have and it's worked on everything I have tried it on. Use the wedge to pry the top of the window with care, then install/inflate the airbag to make enough room to manuever the hook to grip and pull the lock tab by the interior door handle, then remove the rod, airbag, and wedge, and open the door like normal. -Bill

I tried with a slim jim but so far no luck. IWhat's the trick? It's a 78 coupe. Both doors are locked all windows are up and latched.

Thank you. Must have been someone else, I haven't had the pleasure of owning a Datsun in a couple years. I let work take over my life and slowly got rid of all the fun cars. I'm trying to get back to owning a few cars just for the fun of it instead of owning all work vehicles

Welcome. I was just in Portland and saw a beautiful Datsun pickup with a camper top etc. Was that you?

Yeah that pump should work. Really so long as the pressure, voltage, and current draw are correct (the pump you showed looks to meet those specs) then these cars really don't care. I don't know if it'll last as long as an OEM or equivalent pump but it'll do the job. You may have to do some electrical work and figure out a mounting solution since this isn't an OEM equivalent pump but that's not a big deal and it's nothing too complicated. Sadly OEM/equivalent SPFI pumps are NLA but if you do ever want to keep a lookout for one, the part number is 42021GA242. Good luck, let us know how it goes. :]

I'd like to introduce myself, I'm Christopher. I'm an organic farmer in the Portland Oregon area. Always been a Datsun guy but starting to really enjoy the Subarus. Thanks for letting me into your group 😎

I don’t know the SPFI well at all, are you sure the fuel pressure spec is 21psi? I thought it would be more inline with other EFIs like the EJs up at about 40psi. I’ve used the same external fuel pump for a NA MPFI EA82 and an EJ22. No issues. My thinking is that your fuel pressure is half of what it should be. This could be the fuel regulator or the fuel pump itself, or both. Pull the vac line for the fuel pressure regulator and make sure it doesn’t smell of fuel. If so, it’s dead. Cheers Bennie

B straightened out the upper radiator support on the Outback. We cut out the lower radiator support. Hung a straight radiator and the condenser from upper support, hood closed, and started mocking up a new lower support. Got a piece of 3" square tubing to use for that. Put the main bumper beam back into place, squared it up, and cut a new mount for the passenger side. Will post pictures of all that later, planning on doing some fab tomorrow. The main damage to the engine seemed to be where the oil cooler/filter threads on to the block. I tapped it deeper and used one of the longer pipes we'd made when I did the same thing to the black Outback. Also like that time though the block has a hairline crack which was spraying oil everywhere. I cleaned this one out and then poured some super glue in the crack from the inside and outside. Then applied three layers of JB weld. Not real pretty but I ran the engine for a bit and I didn't see it leak a drop. So fingers crossed that will be a semi permanent fix.