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Load Ground Power. You need a good complete circuit. Since this started when you changed the battery cable, I'd back up to there!

I've been looking at the rally Leones and their brush guards and I was thinking something inspired by that. Something that mounts to the bumper and wraps around the side to cover the running lights. I'm buying a spare bumper from my parts guy so I don't have to modify my factory bumper. I plan on using industrial rubber vibration dampeners (originally designed to be placed between heavy machinery and a concrete pad to absorb vibrations). Hopefully these will act as a bushing to absorb impact. Otherwise I'd have to figure out some sort of suspension system for it. The rubber dampeners seemed to be the simplest solution. Otherwise I could make the mount out of aluminum tubing and bolt that to the chrome moly guard. The aluminum would act as a sacrificial absorber.

I believe not all SPFI cars here in the US came with an O2 sensor. California has more strict emissions regulations than the rest of the nation. The California cars got O2 sensors, the cars sold in all other states do not have O2 sensors. I believe. Regardless, not all SPFI cars have O2 sensors from factory. I have found it interesting that despite my car originally being sold in California, it doesn't have California-spec emissions equipment. It has the national standard emissions equipment. I believe the national standard is just an EGR setup and a charcoal canister. No O2 sensor and no EGR temp sensor.

In case you hadn't noticed we have a lot more options for vehicle modifications than Australia. These pumps are 255lph. Assuming this extra tank is 10 gallons that would take about nine minutes. Could have it going before you even start filling the main tank. Worst case you fill up the main tank, pull off to the side for ten minutes, then go back to the pump. Guess I'll find out. I think this will be the simplest way. One hose connecting the tops of the tanks for venting. One hose connecting the bottom of the secondary tank going down through one of the access panels and down to the bottom of the main tank. Have two fuel pumps side by side teed into that bottom hose one pointing each direction. One of those pumps could run the engine in a pinch. Definitely looking forward to the magically increased range.

Find out where that crackling electrical noise is coming from. Try squeezing/wiggling the wiring loom in various areas to see if anything changes, you could have a break of some sort Weird that everything is rhythmical/at a set time interval - almost like your test connectors are still connected. Are you in the rust belt area? It could be worth going over your earths and ensuring they’re clean if not done already.

I doubt there will be too much of a difference between carb cams and EFI cams. Turbo to NA cams, yes, quite a difference but even then the ECU wouldn’t care too much if at all. Cleaning the MAF can induce loads of issues if not done properly. Even then, many seem to report that the MAF is never quite the same after a clean if not done gently enough. Not having an O2 sensor would be an issue for the ECU. Why is this missing from the system? As for timing and pinging, my brumby sits on 4°btdc and runs the best RON “pump gas” we can get (98RON). Any more timing and it pings its tits off. Summer driving can be an issue with pinging at times. If your HVAC system is leaking vacuum that can be fun to diagnose - unless it’s a hose off which will hiss when selected (if post dash switch) quite loudly, enough to know you have a leak. The actuator diaphragms might mask the noise a bit better, however, in my Lseries with 530,000km on it they’ve never been an issue and not replaced in my ownership of 20+ years. I hope you get this sorted. Nothing more annoying than these little issues with no obvious solution.

Those strips are held on with plastic clips. Best way to remove them is via the inside of the door by squeezing the tabs closed to let them slide out the hole. You don’t need a chime moly bullbar - that will fold something more substantial in the engine bay. What you want is a bullbar that will bend a bit as it absorbs the energy of the animal - thus saving other factory parts on the car that are harder to come by. Nothing is certain pin this though. Maybe a full exo-cage will do the trick, but where do you draw the line?

Yeah righto. That’s against our Australian Design Rules (ADRs) over here. Can’t pump fuel between tanks when refilling. Not saying it isn’t done, just that if you’re found out or cause a fire somehow you’ll be raked over the coals for it. And a Fawcett pump would be bloody slow - about 2L per minute transfer rate. Would be better off plumbing in a fill tube between the main tank and auxiliary tank with a one way valve towards the aux tank. There would need to be a vent line to the filler neck to help with the transfer. Or just have a secondary fill pipe off the filler neck to the aux tank so it fills after the main tank is full. Many ways to do it without over complicating things. Our Pajero (Shogun/Montero) sports a dual filler neck behind the filler cap so we can choose to fill the main tank or the auxiliary tank. This secondary filler pipe follows the main tank until it needs to head to the aux tank. Its pretty awesome the first few times being empty on the fuel gauge, then hitting the aux pump switch and watching (from time to time) the main tank gauge go from empty to full without pulling over

Okay, the CEL codes did not come back, but the weird relay clicking continued, and has deepened into a stranger mystery.... So, after clearing the codes and not noticing anything too weird while driving it around for a while, I finally got the opportunity to ask a Subaru tech friend of mine about the relay clicking. While the key is in and turned on, without starting the engine, the fuel relay kept clicking on and off, pretty steadily. We listened to it with the hood open in a quiet garage and were also able to hear the fuel injectors *definitely* squirting fuel! (Confirmed when we let this go on for a bit and then the engine was flooded when I went to restart it) Even *more* ominously, there was a fun electrical crackling sound, like something was sparking a little bit every now and then. She even got a bit of a zap touching somewhere on the exhaust manifold, near the coil pack. But after unplugging all the spark plug wires and continuing to poke and listen, we found out that if we unplugged the connector for the IAC valve, the clicking and fuel injectors stopped (?!) We tried unplugging and plugging in the connectors for the injectors themselves, but that made no difference. It was *only* when the IAC connector was unplugged that it stopped. So...some kind of weird ground inside the IAC valve sensor portion?? Or...something else? We're both kinda stumped. I also tested the IACV according to the manual (testing for resistance across the pins of the connector on the valve itself, and testing for battery power at the harness connector) and everything was within parameters there. Before I go hunting for a new-used IACV to swap in just to see if that does anything (apparently they're not cheap LOL), does anyone have any speculation? Thanks everyone! This car always keeps me on my toes 😂

I do not have an O2 sensor nor an EGR temp sensor. My coolant temp sensor is a good quality sensor and it's basically brand new. New doesn't mean good, I haven't tested it but I'd be rather surprised if that was the culprit. The car has always had a fluttering idle, even with a completely different engine. Also it's a D/R so there's no 4WD vacuum assembly like on a SR4WD. I wouldn't be surprised if the HVAC system has a leak. I'll give the hoses behind the dash a look. Interestingly the vacuum flutter on cold start isn't as bad and subsides much more quickly if the oil was preheated. Maybe one cylinder has bad rings? I brought the timing up to 15deg and I was pinging on regular. No issues with pinging when running premium. The heads have been resurfaced for sure once. No clue on their prior history. I'm not sure how the ECU learns mixture and timing curve but perhaps the ECU is expecting SPFI cams and the carb cams are making it freak out? I doubt this but it's a thought I had.

Sounds to me like a timing or air issue. I would bring the timing to 8-10 degrees BTDC because of the carb cams and see what happens. You said you cleaned your MAF, so that shouldn't be a problem, but your O2 sensor could be sending slow signals.

"One for each direction" I remember him saying he doesn't want to have to separately fill the aux tank. He'd like to flip a switch while filling the main tank to transfer it up to the aux tank. And then activate the second pump to transfer it in the other direction when needed.

Coming home from work this weekend I smoked a deer. Luckily my headlight took the brunt of the impact but the deer spun around and caved in my driver side door. It ripped off some of the side protectors and damaged the protector on my door. I'm talking about the 2.5" wide black plastic pieces. Are these pieces held on with plastic clips/rivets or maybe a double sided tape? How would one remove them? I'll be installing a "new" door in the coming weeks and once I get my hood straightened out I'll be back on the road. Next summer I'll get my door fixed and a buddy and I are going to repaint the car. I also will be welding a bull bar from chrome moly tubing so I don't have to worry about deer as much in the future. Thanks :]

Transfer pumpS? Why plural? Only need one.

The reason for 14g was the distance more than the amperage. I used 12 ft, it's erring on the side of caution, but probably a good idea. If 5A is peak, not continuous, 16g is probably fine. But you'll start seeing voltage drop, which can be hard on motor contacts/brushes. The cleanest and shortest path from the alternator would help that. I looked up the stuff I used on my 4Runner. I'm using these in different Amperage ratings, but they're available in many variations. Maxi Relay + connector and terminals, here's an 80a version of the relay https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/relays/mechanical-relays-and-connectors/cit-relay-and-switch-a3k1ccq12vdc1-6-maxi-relay-spdt-80a-12vdc-max-145vdc- Surface mount manual reset breaker https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/circuit-breakers/high-amp-circuit-breakers/eaton-s-bussmann-series-184080f-01-1-surface-mount I buy a lot from Waytek, or Mouser.

Thanks for all the advice on this. Good to have someone else looking over my shoulder making sure to at least warn me when I'm doing something I shouldn't. Yes, we're just using these as transfer pumps. One for each direction since they all seem to have a check valve built in, the only reversible ones I can find are pretty expensive. 14ga seems overkill for 5A. I use 16ga for almost everything. Will take a closer look at the ABS wires for sure, I like the idea of just using them for power and then grounding the other terminal of the pumps. Will probably see what other wires are running back there we're no longer using too. On the topic of wiring, any suggestions on a relay/fuse good for 80+ amps? Want to put both the pusher fans on the secondary fan circuit. Figure I'll switch the big relay I add with the stock wiring/relay. Those fans pull almost 30A each (over 30A when submerged in water apparently). Planning on putting both the puller fans on the primary fan circuit, they are small and don't draw as much so I should be good there. Currently have one of each on each circuit on 30A fuses.

Personally, I don't think I would trust ABS wires. Small gauge, and twisted pairs. Maybe use all 4 rear ABS sensor wires as positives, and then ground to the body Using this calculator, default voltage drop and temperature, 14v, 5a, 12ft run, they recommend 14g. Alternatively, 22 g wire has about a 20% voltage drop.

I’d set it up as an aux Fawcett pump to transfer fuel from the aux tank to the main tank. Far simpler than trying to run a second high pressure pump and work out valves/relays to switch fuel lines to avoid back feeding and sort out the redirection of the returning fuel (unless you run a deadhead setup with zero fuel return). This sort of thing is something I want to do with my brumby under the tray behind the cab where there’s a decent cavity.

The fix for a sloppy gear stick/shifter is cut a slot in about 20mm approx, parallel to the shaft’s location. Make the width a few mm at least. Do this on each side of that bracket. Then drill out the hole on the bracket while on the shaft so both are done at the same time. Shove a bolt in it with a metal lock nut, tighten the living daylights out of it and you’re done. If the gear stick is still sloppy but in a different way, you need to replace the bush on the bottom of it, the one that sits in a cup on top of the gearbox. Access this via the cab with console etc removed. I’m yet to do this, I was told a bit of garden hose over the end of the gear stick placed back in the bush does the trick. Well done on sorting out the running issue! There must be something in the mix on the old setup that does something that the charcoal canister does now.

If you're planning on using a full-pressure fuel pump to deliver to the engine bay, the ABS wiring definitely won't be adequate. Plenty of people say the stock fuel pump wiring isn't adequate lol. But if you're just using a transfer pump to move from aux to main tank, maybe the current draw will be low enough.

Good point I'll take a look at the gauge of those wires. Won't be under much pressure so according to the internet it'll draw 4-5 amps and even 22 gauge wire should be adequate. Definitely not getting any relays involved. Thanks again for the cabin air filter tip. We were discussing how full of junk the evaporator would be without it. Like the one on the black Outback was.

You think those ABS signal wires are heavy enough to run a fuel pump, or are you just using them to trigger a relay? Good thing you have a cabin air filter.

B and I worked on the secondary fuel tank for the Impreza. I pressure tested it and flushed it out, seems like it doesn't have any leaks even at 30psi. I got the mounting flaps carved up so it fits and matched up the bumper mount holes. We had to do a little more hammering in the spare tire well. We came up with a plan on how we want to mount the fuel pumps and run the hoses. I need to get another pump, some hoses and fittings. Going to try to get wire connectors for the ABS wires so we can use those for the fuel pumps since they're already running front to back and will never be used for ABS again. B replaced the cabin air filter and cleaned out the airbox and blower fan, they were all loaded with debris. He also traced the brake lines under the hood and we came up with a plan on eliminating the ABS module and plumbing the left/right steering brake from the black Outback.

I added the charcoal canister between the gas tank and vapor intake on the 2.2, plumbing the vacuum valve per Bushytail’s advice. Viola, all is well. No more excessive tank pressure, no more bucking. An aside to the main topic: The shift mechanism on the old 4mt was fixed with tapping threads clean through the sleeve, and shift rod. Really is the ‘gold standard’ to fix this. For anyone still using the four speed. I sure took the long way around to get this fixed. Just couldn’t let go of the fact that the 2.2 ran fine with no canister in GL wagon. But many thanks to all here who helped me to get this Brat running right!

Oh that's probably what I was thinking of then. It's a 78 so it has the narrower case. if anyone has a narrow case and a wide case intake and could measure the width you would be a life saver. Dont wanna source the wrong one if possible haha.