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They are the original bushings. The car has been in Colorado it's entire life so it's not super rusty, but that's a good thing to note. How do you fix it if the nut does break?

Swap in the used pair, it's less hassle. But also measure the length of the front bushing on your car and confirm first. The swaybar mounting tab may be different too, make a note of it. Figure out if you want to get those Delphi bushings and build a spare set later. Also pray to the rust gods that the big bolts don't break the captive nuts in the frame when you try and remove them. If it's the original bushing on the car, chances are the nut inside is corroded, I'd recommend completely relieving pressure on the arm by removing the knuckle before breaking loose bushing bolts.

Hello Everyone, I have a 2002 Impreza TS with some leaky front lower rear control arm bushings (the oil/grease filled ones). They've been leaking for a while and are starting to get some play in them so it's time to replace them. The stealership said they are $190 each. The auto parts stores don't carry them, unless it is Napa. Napa wants $120 each. I also have a used pair of complete control arms with bushings for $60 per side. Mileage is unknown. Reportedly in good condition. They are at a dedicated Subaru recycler. Rock auto sells the delphi ones for about $35. Are the Delphi ones worth buying? Would it be between to just get new control arms with new bushings? Thanks for any input!

This website says what I assume is 82,408 wagons sold in the US in '87. It says a total of 177,138 total Subarus sold in the US in '87. https://www.cars101.com/subaru_archives.html You seriously have to write what amounts to a report on your car to get it licensed as a historic vehicle?! And I assume this is basically for an emissions free existence from this point forward? How ridiculous, but it's CA, I guess. I'm sure if someone can justify this for a Ford Pinto, one of the earlier compact 4X4 utility wagons can be justified as a classic. Wasn't Subaru one of the earliest and best at 4X4 CARS back then? That would be a start, IMHO.

Very solid points, Bennie. Did not bring over the fuel tank from the wagon. I do suspect fuel to be at least part of the problem. My first effort was to install a pressure gauge. Also, the surging seems quite rhythmic when it occurs. I brought over the steering column from the wagon, including the ignition switch. I’m using the GL starting circuit on the Brat, as I had on the wagon. The trouble code of ‘starter circuit high’ is the same as it was in wagon. Also brought small fuse block that I’d used on the wagon, protection for the power to ECU. Using the same external fuel pump, and the relays from the donor 2.2. One surprise was that the fuel pump relay worked for a short time in the Brat and then quit. I replaced the relay and it’s been okay. The body harnesses are original to each body, only the engine/ecu harness came with the engine from the wagon to the Brat. The pump is mounted close to the tank, to which I’d added a filter when in the wagon, which didn’t get changed when brought over, had about 5,000 miles on it then. Maybe I should take a harder look at the idea of crud in tank. I’ve also brought the original fuel filter along with the engine, so the set-up has two. The pressure gauge is downstream of both, and does seem solid. The tank pressure and fumes are greater in the Brat than wagon, and I can’t figure why.I’ve tried running without gas cap, and with lines to the fuel separator box disconnected but that doesn’t affect the engine cut-out. Full disclosure, I let the wagon body go before finishing the install to the Brat, a mistake because when plumbing the fuel lines I think there is an additional port on the Brat fuel tank. I just added another tee in the original way I had plumbed the wagon, on the return side. Anybody familiar with the differences in tank ports between ‘83 gl wagon and ‘85 Brat? Best way to check the fuel tank? At the filters? More effort into the pressure gauge? Thanks

Wow. Used to be Mr. Statistics - my buddy Andrew, would soon reply with all the production numbers. And more. I just can’t think right now of where those figures are online. But they’re out there. Hang in there and I’d bet you have some good info that’s printable and presentable. Here in CT it’s classic at 20, emissions exempt at 25. No inspection for body, safety, etc. unless it’s from a salvage title. Doesn’t help you much but CA DMV should take a look around and see other States criteria/policies. Going through a parallel situation in AZ right now. Have a 2003 wagon from the east coast with over 250k on it to my son and they’re calling it a $5800 car etc, needs some letter from our state, etc,, just a load of crap all around. Sorry to rant. Might not hold much weight but I’d be happy to write a letter for you using my real name and related to the board and my existence here since it’s inception and the fact that I’ve owned and dealt with vintage Subarus for decades etc etc. Send me a message if you think that would help. I’ve got to rest now but good luck.

I'm am trying to get CA historic Vehicle license plates for my 1987 Subaru wagon 4x4 turbo GL. I've owned it since it was new. The CA Dept of motor vehicles told me a need a statement (even from a car club) stating the historic of my car. Can anyone help with this. How many built, etc. any way to prove historic nature. I'm look for facts, figure,etc, and even a club that could make a statement of fact. Brian

Thanks for the link. I'm not sure if those will work on mine, those look to use a screw to attach. Mine use those c-clips to hold it to the regulator itself.

I did find this eBay link to some window cranks. I've bought from this seller in Thailand before, great packaging. Prices are on the higher side but they've got some parts and pieces that are difficult to find. :]

Ahh, I got ya now. I didn't see your location.

We got the L series in Oz from late ‘84 through to ‘94. Other names used state side I believe are Leone, DL, GL etc. the wagon isn’t known as a Leone, only the sedan. The GL is the up-spec model so no window winders there due to power windows. The Legacy’s and Imprezas that don’t have power windows will also work I believe. Cheers Bennie

Which L-series are you referring to? Legacy L/Brighton?

I think it's where it's got the dealer add-on AC system. I have another wiring harness that came with this from a non-AC model and it doesn't have that fuse.

Window cranks/winders: can use L series units when you find good ones. There were some models that came with some sweet metal winders that never perish in the heat. There will be some (I think) ABS printed window winders on the market sometime soon. They’re in the testing phase now and really look the part! Hope this helps. Cheers Bennie

I assume Subaru realized that the fuse box was no longer big enough for all the loads on their newest models... and rather than putting in a bigger fuse box, decided to just do *THAT*! If it works with a new fuse, I wouldn't investigate too hard unless it blows again - it can randomly blow if anything (leaf, mouse, etc) jams the blower wheel.

So, what are my options on window cranks? I've got a couple that have suffered the effects of age and the splines have stripped out on them. Did anyone ever make aftermarket ones that slid on? I've dealt with this problem on 4 different EA81s. Also, I have some replacement hatch struts but the previous owner has lost the brackets on the left-hand side one where they attach to the body. Does anyone have those laying around? Thanks!

Yup, fitment chart shows "74-"97. Thanx!

Me too. Have never replaced an axle. I watch mine and replace when they leak. Noticed long ago the quality of Subaru rubber and how long factory boots lasted. After market/parts house boots not so good. Ebay sellers have couple outer NOS boots, no inners. Guess I'll order BECK/ARNLEY 1032129 from Rock. Rubber for these old cars getting hard to get. Wonder how many still running>

Try looking for an EMPI 86-1098-D. See if the boot shape matches. :]

The chrome bumpers is what I always look for on these to indicate 2wd vs 4wd.

Since no one said it yet, yes we still love pics on here!! You’re doing well there. @bushytails - good pick up on the 2wd setup! What gave it away? As for wheel bearings on the rear, they’re like trailer bearings, get a new set and swap them on - change the bearing races on the hub too. No shortcuts! Cheers Bennie

Did you use the Brat’s fuel tank or bring the one over from the wagon? If using the Brat’s fuel tank I reckon it’s getting clogged up as you drive, fuel starvation then occurs as the pump struggles to get fuel to supply the engine under load. This doesn’t match what you said about your fuel pressure readings though. Is the ignitions switch on the Brat good? These can sometimes cause intermittent issues but seem more likely to die outright rather than a slow, twitchy death. Maybe list the things that are similar/same between the two vehicles that were swapped and not swapped. Something might show up there. Eg: - fuel lines - fuel tank - body harness - EJ power “pick up” points - where? Changed/same? Cheers Bennie

I’d argue that new boots on an old OEM cv shaft assembly is well worth the effort if it’s not left to grind along with loads of road grime, water and dirt in there. A mate of mine swears by stretchy boots. I saw one (now a meme somewhere) that wrapped the boot around the shaft a number of times when the gizzards of the CV joint let go for whatever reason. The CV joint was rebuilt on the side of the road and the boot reused! I’ve used various aftermarket boots with good success. I next time I’ll be trying these stretchy boots. Cheers Bennie

When you buy the entire CV axial, the boots will last for a couple hundred thousand miles. What the subaru mechanics like to do it coat them with a fluid that causes them to disintegrate in about 3 weeks, so you will be back in 4 weeks to have even more work done. It is generally a waste of time to put new boots on a high mileage CV axial. Replace the entire assembly.