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whats the chances that you might feel generous enough to send me a link to the 11-14 wrx version? and maybe im really lucky and timmy1236 feels like explaining his work around for the serial lock issue?? any help is greatly appreciated guys!!

1+ Flush and bleed they system. New hose master to slave if it's original.

Other things to check in addition to whats mentioned above... Check the pedal assembly under the dash. Those years can get cracks in the pedal bracket. Remove and check the pivot pin itself for wear. I've long since replaced mine with a hardened bolt, washers and locknut. Is 2006 the a push clutch? The stamped fork tends to crack overtime. Hard to check though. Pull clutch uses forged fork and has no issues.

Alternator changed Friday evening and had a muffler put on by a local mom-n-pop shop this morning. Next on the list is a water pump. I noticed my belt was fraying after that quick drive up the road last week. I am confident I've got the water pump for non-AC GLs and it's slightly out of alignment.

Master cylinder is becoming gummy. It could be worth flushing the clutch hydraulic system. At worst you might need to replace the master cylinder. Or have the whole system overhauled. Also, the clutch pedal when it goes to the floor will not naturally return, at least in my Gen 1 RS Liberty it doesn’t.

A complete loss of compression suggests it’s mechanical. It would be odd for all cylinders to lose compression, yes, but stranger things happen though. Someone even suggested that the cylinder walls were washed and will come good. I don’t know what that means exactly though - but it is something mechanical that’s the issue. I’d be flushing out the old fuel rather than having the engine eat it. I’d put the highest octane fuel you can get and run that for several tanks, then return to your regular fuel octane rating you use. Cheers

The weather was finally somwhat bearable (if humid as hell for my tastes), my leg is 99% healed, and I had a day off to play with, so I started poking at the rear suspension again. Pulled the subframe apart and separated the sheet metal piece from the diff, and removed the knuckle assemblies including the CV's and lateral arms. Also I think i made my first obnoxious mistake. Nothing too unrecoverable but still... annoying. Made a couple of test fits and chalk marks with the whole assembly to get an idea of what I thought I'd be wanting to chop. Actually chopping was the mistake (sort of) - but I'll detail that shortly. The diagonal marks indicate roughly where the frame ends on the brat where I need the subframe to sit. Did another test fit with just the diff and subframe, determined it would be easier to fit where I needed it to if I just cut it straight where the stock bushings ended. The intent here was (and I guess still is) to re-fabricate mounting points to the frame with new bushing locations to fit in the smaller chassis. Got everything tucked up in and sort of leaned in place where I think It will go. The diff is bolted to the subframe, and then also mounted to the original Brat front diff crossmember. Fits pretty close to where it needs to be - only thing now is that it looks as if there's about 1.5 - 2 inches of height I'll need to make up to keep everything sitting level. It was at this point where looking back I think I maybe made a bit of a mistake cutting off the bushings. Funny thing is - mere minutes after completing all the test fitting and cutting today, a friend sent me a youtube video from a guy doing a similar subframe swap in on a later gen brat where he just...*widened the frame and used the stock bushings.* Shocker, this would have been a much simpler approach and I think there would still be enough clearance for me to narrow the links and CVs to tuck everything back in under the stock wheel wells. Granted, the gentleman in question had to refabricate his whole rear frame, and appeared to be planning on adding a widebody kit setup though so maybe he didn't need to be so concerned about the wheelbase width in the back. Lack of access to the "frame" from a different perspective was also a reason for me not thinking of this - I'm still using the bed as a demi-storage locker and haven't cut the bed floor or wheel wells out yet. Might change that and get the ol' death wheel out for the bed soon to, but that metal is in pretty good shape and I'd rather not cut into it if I don't have to. I'm deciding to look at the silver linings here - It's probably for the best I'm still going my own way of it - I'm definitely maximizing the room i have available to move the wheels inboard for a more stock look. I'm thinking I might be able to get clever and integrate the original moustache bar mounts or something... We'll see - I have to sleep on it. Absolute worst case I go to the junkyard and try to source another rear subframe and then widen the frame rails similarly to the other builder. A quick Google looks like one can be had for about $150 used. Maybe less if I find a pick and pull with one nearby or get lucky on marketplace. Mounting problems aside - having put everything roughly where I want it and looking at the bare underside of the subframe itself I think I'm going to have to take a slightly different track and shorten both the CV as well as the lateral links - chopping up the subframe more than I already have is going to prove much more complex than I initially assumed. I'd wanted to try to save on parts money and maintain stock impreza parts wherever possible, but in this case I think it will end up becoming much more expensive in terms of my time to relocate the pivot points instead of just changing to an adjustable link setup (It looks like I can get some of those for my GC model year for about $200.) Hopefully adjustable links will be adjustable enough to where I don't need to modify those to shorten them sufficiently. Anyways, looks a lot like it did when I started today but now I have more information to play with. Ever onward!

Long time no write... After retirement, I rarely drive my wagon, after it sits for a while, I find the clutch pedal does not return after pressing. I CAN lift it and pump it enough to shift, then, after driving for a while, it starts behaving mostly normally. Anyone experience this? clutch master or slave cylinder????

I doubt it's anything actually mechanical, just because it's all cylinders at once.

Worst case scenario your valves are stuck open from some gummy crap. You should be able to pull them closed again with the rocker covers removed. If it happens again afterwards, I’d be looking at spraying some sort of solvent or fresh fuel down the intake while cranking to hopefully clean up the gum that’s holding them open. Cheers Bennie

If you wanted to test the pump you could re-route the fuel lines so the pump is sucking from a Jerrycan and the return line is sent back to another container to push out any other crap that’s still in the fuel system. Just remember that the jerrycan will empty pretty quickly! Cheers Bennie

Thanks for your help and wisdom! Yeah, from what I read online, my next step should be to drop the gas tank and clean out the 16-year-old gas and varnish, which I have been dreading doing, but it's gotta be done. Once I do that, I have an extra pump lying around that I was saving for my wagon, I'll swap it in and see if I can start it up! From what I can tell the two pumps seem to be the same.

If everything is turning, you probably just washed the cylinder walls, and it'll sound normal again after you fix the fuel problems and get it running for a bit.

i send you a DM with the link

Does anyone have a copy of 11-14 wrx?I know its serial locked but I know how to get around that just any personal or pro copy that's compatible with 11-14.

Cheers! With the lift on this thing, I'll probably have to do some more searching for parts that will fit. I'm thinking I'll do a full overhaul of everything to do with suspension, wheels, brakes, potentially steering. We'll see how the part search goes! Appreciate the offer to help find parts from your local guy. Will PM you when I'm in search mode!

Congrats man, glad you're keeping it on the road. For suspension work, check out King Springs, they have overload springs that stiffen the suspension up quite a bit. Kind of a rough ride but allows for more cargo capacity and handles better. You may have a tough time finding front struts. But they're out there if you keep your eyes open and have patience. Their availability seems to come in waves. Also check out DRW bushings, good polyurethane bushings made by a very small business. If you ever need parts you can't find, I have a local parts guy I plan to visit in the next few weeks. Shoot me a PM if you need anything. :] P.S. you plan on doing wheel bearings while you're in there doing brakes?

Everything is turning over and getting spark. It cranks, but then stalls out. Based on what someone mentioned, the old varnished fuel may have damaged the valve seat seals or piston rings, causing a loss of compression. I drained the old fuel from the tank and blew out the fuel lines with compressed air. Then I added a couple gallons of fresh gas along with a treatment. I suspect the treatment is doing its job by breaking down the varnish in the tank—but that might be sending residue into the engine. I’ll monitor how it performs over the next few days.

FOLKS! We have liftoff!!! Cleaned the injector with some carb cleaner and reinstalled. Still had some intermittent issues with misfires but I was able to play around with the distributor timing and took the beast for a rip around town last night. Engine is running great! Next up, suspension and brakes.

Are the accessories (alternator, etc) turning?

Tried starting the engine this evening and it sounded like it completely lost compression. Any thoughts?

Well, 2 poor starters from NAPA caused the slow crank issue. The replacement Positive cable helped but when he got a good starter, much better. Aftermarket AT cooler added - has improved the Trans AT Temp. Still taking a bit of starting fluid to get it to start. Once running, it's fine. He can shut it off and start it right back up so fuel pump is working. I'm thinking the ECU is not turning the fuel pump on initially to build pressure. He's checking with a pressure gauge tee into the fuel line. If it's the ECU, I told him we could add a switch to the control circuit of the relay which would let him turn on the pump prior to start. I have to look, but I believe the ECU is just providing a ground for the control circuit of the fuel pump relay. Easy Button, if that's the case.

Hi everyone, I mapped the connector in the car. But I need the rotation and phase signals to operate and test the ECU on the bench. Can anyone help me with this?

It'd be interesting to see the temp gauge at 65 MPH versus the last time you drove it. That radiator looks kinda bad, but I took one out of my car that was worse, albeit it was one of the later plastic tank ones. The cooling fins were literally falling out of it. I had a brass radiator welded/repaired like yours is after a wreck in a different vehicle, and that thing lasted nearly 40 years! Some of those guys do great work.

Try looking for a flexible hose with the correct sized banjo bolt fittings on each end. Mamba on eBay sells good products, you just need to find what works - an early RS Liberty/RS Legacy or wrx one could work if the banjo bolts are the same size. Cheers Bennie