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Hopefully you all can help. I have an 87 GL 1.8L 4x4 wagon Weber Carbureted w/270000 miles. Have had for 5 years now and been having no start issues for about 2 weeks now.Your forums have steered me in the right directions but no luck. I have spark from coil to disty, disty to#1, new cap/rotor, rotors turns in disty so not the time belt. Seems to be getting fuel to carb, it ckokes and sputters and acts like it's flooding out and back fires , and hit the carb with starting fluid, won't even try to fire. Then checked rev sensor (what's up with that stupid thing)have power to the unit, have tack pulse, tried jumping several different ways just to be sure I didn't have wires mixed up. Can't hear pump kick on, but actually never have heard it since I got the car. Assume it's working cuz carb is flooding out. So not sure where to check from here. Any advice ???? would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

It's a basic idiot light switch. I keep them in stock, and I routinely replace them when a car comes in for other work. Subi's are extremely forgiving about running low on oil, but when that light starts flickering or worse yet, stays lit, you need to check things out.

Apparently in the ‘60s ppl wanted their V8 fords to be capable of “high revs”. Apparently the kids back then liked to see over 4000 rpm on the tacho, but the engines didn’t like it so apparently Ford modified the tacho so it looked like the engine would rev that hard when in fact it was still within what Ford considered safe operating. There’s always a way around things. It’s also why modern temp gauges don’t move once “at temp” until something catastrophic occurs and it sky rockets. Cheers Bennie

Is anything interfering with the clutch pedal? Carpet or mat for example?

It'd read somewhere between 2 and 100. I remember when ford fixed complaints of low oil pressure by replacing the gauge sender with a switch and resistor, so the gauge always read 2/3rds from 2psi up...

It's definitely motor oil. I looked closely at that sensor, and I can see oil bubbling out of it. It must be bad if my old eyes can see it. NAPA calls that an oil pressure switch, and they should get it in today or tomorrow. Oddly, NAPA specs say it's a 2-7psi switch. I guess that means it closes somewhere between 2 and 7PSI? or maybe closes at two, re-opens at 7? That seems WAY low. If I put a proper gauge there, what would it read?

If there's air, theres a leak. Check the lines for wetness and under the clutch reservoir. Get a scredriver and depress the slave piston in so you can wiggle the clutch fork back and forth. It should only move in two directions. If it's flopping all over the place, somethings broken, bearing, fork, pivot pin.

Near the front, on top, on the pass side. Between the alternator and the power steering pump. Is this motor oil or perhaps it is power steering fluid?

No turbo, thank God. @montana tom, where's the oil pressure sender? Is that near the front, a little to the passenger side of the middle?

Update: I checked for leaks with a vacuum cleaner from the exhaust, no leaks. Replaced with a new MAP sensor, spark plugs, spark cables, rear sensor. Cleaned intake manifold, calibrated the throttle sensor that was buzzing. Took it for a spin and it went great. Code did not come back after obs reser. Got it through through car inspection on 2500rpm this time. When i came back home the idling is going a little up and down between 3 second intervall. I will check for vacuum leaks.

Hydraulic clutch - if the clutch pedal doesn't come back up does that mean there's air in the hydraulic lines or the throw out bearing is toast?

This is the connector you're looking for, there'll be a male connector of the same color. I just don't have a photo showing them connected. If you get tired of twisting yourself under the steering column looking for wires, remove the driver seat. It's 4 bolts, one on each corner of the seat and it frees up a lot of space to move around. :]

Ah yeah I forgot about this EA82 detail - the codes flash from the LED on the side of the ECU. EJ onwards the CEL does all the flashing and the ECU LED was deleted. Can you tell what I play with these days? As for the bright green plug, its buddy could be taped to the wiring loom if it’s not been used. Stranger things have happened… Cheers Bennie

The engine develops more power and responds quicker as a result of improving the suction in this breather system, for some odd reason.

Better to figure out why it does not work right, instead getting some vague description of a problem from trouble codes. What are the symptoms? For instance, my car suddenly decided not to maintain it's idle, even when giving it enough gas. Then it would suddenly run right for a mile, but then do the same thing later. I first replaced the alternator since I keep a spare. No change. Then I swapped out the two engine relay switches. No change. So that narrowed it down to the distributor for me. So I thought that the distributor brains were going out. I pulled the distributor and was ready to swap out the brains with a backup distributor with the wrong gearing, and by chance I sucked on the timing advance diaphragm inlet. Vella! It would not hold a vacuum. So, I swapped out the timing advance diaphragm and it worked perfectly again. Obviously, I saved myself from have an actual Subaru dealer look at it, where they either would not likely be able to figure it out, or they would have fixed it, charged my a small fortune in order to get my car back, and sabotaged it so that I would have to bring it back in 30 days. Standard Subaru mechanic scam.

Just run the pin you have. The wear will be taken up by the adjustment at the release fork.

Go back to ACE and get an metric allen bolt + nylon lock nut sized to fit.

Thank you so much, I found some engine codes elsewhere but this list is much better, especially due to me having the SPFI as opposed to the MPFI 🙏🙏

Is it a light green? Or sort of darker green? The only one I have is very bright green.

Cable broke at the tuning fork sort of thing at the end that hooks to the clutch pedal. Also, the clevis pin wore out and acquired two grooves, adding to the slop. Subaru no longer has this clevis pin part so I got one at Ace Hardware about half an inch longer than the other one and I'm pretty sure it will work. I tried to send a picture but this site will not take a picture of that size. I will try again later. UPDATE: There it is below. I went to ACE and got a 5/16d x 1/4l clevis pin and the internal washers they had were incompatible. Either mine works after flattening with a hammer or I go the route of 10 flat washers and a hitch pin. We'll see. I haven't lost my touch with improvising.

Other places to check. If near the rear passenger, check the pcv hoses. If turbo, theres a middle block nipple that likes to leak when the clamps weaken from heat.

They can't be all that different? How about this? https://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/#codes88multi

You own a subaru.

The test connector is the 4-pin green plug (mine has a yellow, black, red, and white/yellow wires). Not sure about the brown plug, but it doesn't have to do with pulling codes. I'd turn the key off when connecting or disconnecting any connectors. But I have accidentally driven with my test connector connected so it *shouldn't* send sparks flying or making any magic smoke. :]

So there may be a small problem in that I only see one green plug and it’s already plugged in, way in the back corner of the cubby below the steering rack. The only outwardly accessible plug is a brown male and female plug with a blue and a black wire, and a brown male plug with a yellow wire and black wire. Should I try messing with them while the ignition is at “on” or will that break things? Thanks in advance