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Oh and congratulations and enjoy the F out of that thing. If you’re at all like myself you’ll use it and not pamper it too much. But that’s your choice and this far down the line with less parts availability I can see where you won’t thrash it around. Plenty pictures of my 1978 4WD wagon romping through the Barrens on the internet. But that was my choice. Car still lives on. If you hit the trails and want some company give me a message in advance and I’ll try like hell to make it down there.

So you bought it so you should be happy that you spent an appropriate amount of money on it. That’s what matters. Ask a guy like me who drove those cars but has moved beyond and I’ll be critical. Ask a guy like yourself who went out of his way (correctly it seems) to fetch a vehicle that’s tied to your heart and you’ll get a more positive appraisal. Again with opinions, I’d keep that rack on and romp through the Barrens of south Jersey. Gotta have something to put the Jersey Devil on when you drag him out of there.

I think I'am going to remove roof rack and go with the straight bars that came with it. and maybe put the street tires back on for now it came with two sets of tires and wheels

Its a former Arizona car so rust is pretty much nil, engine was rebuilt at 115000 don't know the extent of the rebuild pic to follow

B and I got a few things done on my cars. Our main focus was solving the axle issue in the 2002 Outback and I think we accomplished that. The axle in place was definitely getting overextended and the worst case for that is slightly above ride height, so not surprising that it was more of a problem when the car was overloaded. We measured a bunch of axles. Unfortunately it took us a bit to realize/remember that the axles for the press in rear wheel bearings in the strut cars are a slightly different spline than the bolt in wheel bearings in the multilink cars. Again, so much for Legos. Of course most of the axles we have are for the strut cars. The axle that had been in the right rear measures in between the pair I recently got from a junkyard. So it might be slightly shorter than the one it had replaced which might have been the main problem. Any of them would have probably been too short at the most extended position. I added a 1/4" thick spacer between the axle and the wheel bearing. With that in place there's a millimeter or two of plunge travel left at the most extended position but it will still go to full droop and be close to the limit of bottoming out the inner CV. I vaguely recall making a thin spacer years ago but there wasn't one in place when we've taken it apart. To still get a decent crimp on the axle nut with the spacer I modified it in the lathe. A contributing factor might be that we replaced the rear diff bushings the last time we replaced the axle so the diff can't move around as much now. Also changed the oil and filter and tweaked the alignment a bit. Haven't put a ton of miles on it but drove it around town quite a bit today and definitely used most of the travel, seems good so far. Definitely would have popped out by now with the old assembly. Next we worked on my green Impreza, changed oil and tweaked the alignment on that. Main project there was the AC. To recap, last summer it worked fine. A couple months ago it had no (low?) charge so I charged it up. Seemed to have much higher pressure differential than it should, would get up to about 20psi low 250psi high and shut off, pressures would converge, it would turn back on, and would continue doing that every minute or so. Assumed the orifice was clogged. Replaced the orifice and drier/filter too while we were at it. Pulled a vacuum, got down to about 20"Hg and seemed to hold that with the vacuum pump off. Put about half of a 12oz can of R134a in, runs at about 2psi on the low side and 50psi on the high side. So it still seems like there is some kind of blockage. Might try to backflush the condenser and evaporator, not sure what else to try at this point. Got a couple temp sensors that should have good calibrations for the Haltech. Plan to install those at both ends of the cooling system. Also plan to find that large heater core and small electric fan we had in the back of the black Outback and install that under the hood of the green Impreza under the passenger side hood vent. At the same time will probably add shutoff valves so we can bypass the in dash heater core to see if that helps cool down the cabin in the summer.

I wonder if we can trick the parking brake switch? If you pull up on the lever as you may already know it cuts the running lights. I use that same tactic on a certain property in the dark I like to approach in a very stealth manner. I’ve got the parking brake slightly yanked upwards just enough to kill the lights. Not even the first click. But maybe just have the switch engaged at all times? I’ve not yet lifted the cover and messed it even viewed. But I’d guess it’s the same as the generations before.

Anyone?

Also consider quality of parts. CV axles, gaskets, hoses, boots, electrical mods. The quality of all these matter greatly. A fully rebuilt Loyale (engine, drivetrain, suspension, weatherstripping, etc) is worth far far less than the sum of it's parts. Photos of the car in question would help. :]

92.50 mm, either 2.0mm 1st & 2nd or 1.2mm 1st & 2nd rings, depending on engine/piston. https://hastingspistonrings.com/catalogs-cross-reference/ https://hastingspistonrings.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/asian-catalog-americas.pdf https://www.ebay.com/itm/187161728886?fits=Make%3ASubaru&_skw=subaru+92.50+mm+EA81+piston+rings&itmmeta=01JTH36YHWEVD0QXGV0YXQQ7AS&hash=item2b93b55776:g:bS0AAeSw-8loBnk~&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ds6hQQs5C0Aavw5a6pUKCItZ201Ll3mNujqNg%2FsDD%2FLkBJ7WFKlwnHz4MCZCGppX%2FDPCDO2CTW%2Fvzc4HYFSx3w9SyT4GZCR6X%2BQAOqWhGGlpjyupNBUSt2bDQiHwVVQrWC8j3PomzHL%2FC3cd7lS0b6r1WQN%2BzytOPdLZcBBAbGI79artDEqCIFjPgS20GvkOHTQBPMLEpKJg8wrV0ut6%2FgSomiZDBl%2BETktnc2BjmLNBg0pz0GA6%2FPT4uRkWL1yd3ExzklURJ2K4Rak9MQpInT|tkp%3ABk9SR47pm6PUZQ Contact seller importengineparts on fleabay for NPR rings. YMMV

I have a 2002 legacy sedan AWD. Is there a way to shut the drl off permanently?? I don't like my headlights on all the time. Thank you for your help.

You’re in NJ, how much rust?

That’s maximum as I know it. And I can’t recall seeing 50 over. Not many folks have bothered at that point. I cannot recall anyone with a 50 over EA anything. Good luck with it.

Lots to consider. Body condition Last time head gaskets were done. Etc.

I’m on the NJTP right now near exit 5 Hount Molly lol Mount Holly Was just here last weekend too. See you in September at NJMP Millville for the motorcycle races. And welcome!

Wanted to ask the collective minds of the group what is a 91 Loyale wagon 4wd worth engine has been rebuilt, new struts,radiator,alternator,cvaxles extra set of mounted wheel tires roof rack interior is in great shape trying to figure out what its worth

My first post here, although Ultimate Subaru has been the most helpful in finding answers for the older generation of cars, so I have been lurking and reading for a while. I am doing the HLA cleaning and found a broken wave spring washer.. or discontinued Rocker spring shaft washer... I found this description on Ebay: 10Pcs 23mm x 29mm x 0.3mm 304 Stainless Steel Wave Spring Washer for Screw or bolt Anyone have some thoughts about if they are a BAD idea? Or should I take a chance on spending $10 for what might have a 20% chance of working? https://www.ebay.com/itm/304250517092 Thanks, Jase

Contact these folks and ask if the have .50 rings. Also, you can look thru all the other vendors on ebay to see if someone sells the set. I tend to steer away from DNJ parts, As they are cheap chineseum stuff, but I've had good luck with Hastings and NPR https://www.ebay.com/itm/286535946018?fits=Year%3A1984|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A1.8L|Trim%3ABase+Hardtop+2-Door|Model%3AGL|Make%3ASubaru|Submodel%3ABase|Engine%3A1.8L+1781CC+H4+GAS+OHV+Naturally+Aspirated&_skw=Engine+Piston+Ring+Set&itmmeta=01JTGGCDK5QCYY56G3JP27C2G5&hash=item42b6df8f22:g:GRMAAOSwGV1n8-L7&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABIFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dVY6P5gatqhuRHuVG4ciQApiO91CmKZ1GKhjuDRTL1uR8hyiSb5sbsItgmuoKoBQlCzg23eI%2BhpPrJpzKKCP4lOjPOopLM3kluSYyR%2Fc76VCR13ECk%2B7T6Iy3QfGbavPNaOIG1rLJ6m3eAYuK%2FEWNMUZLPY%2Bo%2Bud6v3Uzwmo58K%2Fg964pFpDXHq7E1XZOljK2MhX8HT5DvSWlpcB9UOcbDjoG0ai3Pr8rb1KaI%2B%2FbGScHm1YJZ326VlfMnXDQFMyh77DAvU1C%2BkXpEYnGJVNmYjI3XcOORaUDrio5A%2BiGczM9gGwQUSRqfW3TEXNW3jqgRq3cfxaRbszs1W4rijv825AENgRfUdu6o5Pr7mVfSUw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-DZsZDUZQ

Hello new member from Sothern New Jersey first time Subaru owner a 91 Loyale wagon

If possible can you send me the 2015 WRX Access Tuner to lukelarsen210@gmail.com

If you’re pulling the synchros out you might as well get them bead blasted and put them back in. This will be your issue - the synchros are worn out and smooth so they no longer grab to match the gearset speeds with the engagement hub. Rough them up and they should work properly again. Gearbox work can get tricky if you don’t know what you’re doing - but as always, the best way is to learn! Just have a back up plan if the rebuild doesn’t go as planned. Cheers Bennie

Double clutch helps but there is still resistance and noise when downshifting to 3rd. I'm more inclined to just leaving it be. A new throw out bearing, cable, and shift linkage bushings will help. Although if it'd be best to rebuild, then I'll go that route. I live in a hilly area so smooth downshifting is nice. These cars aren't safe nor fast. Turning onto a blind uphill 55 zone from a stop sign can be sketchy. It'd be preferable if my transmission operated as it should when I needed it to.

Double clutch downshifts...

I have been progressing through my engine rebuild and the time had come to pull my transmission for a reseal. Additionally, I would like to address what I believe to be a 3rd & 4th gear synchro issue. I can only upshift into 3rd smoothly above 5k RPM and I cannot downshift into 3rd without a minor grind followed by an audible 'click'. My clutch cable and throw out bearing were shot, compounding the down shifting issue. Question: Could I take the 3rd/4th gear synchro out a '92 Loyale S/R 4WD trans and use that in my '89 5M D/R trans? Is there a specific oil (ATF flush?) I could use that would potentially resolve this issue? The case has to be split for the reseal anyways so if a synchro needs replacing, you're already in there. Thanks :]