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Plumbed a tee into the top line feeding the steering brake and put a bleeder on that, after bleeding that spot and the calipers a bit more it seems fine now. B replaced a front wheel bearing on his Forester which seemed to help his on/off throttle steering issue. I edited and posted two videos from our last trip to the UP, one long, one short:

The power locks use a switch in the driver door that tells the other locks when to lock or unlock. So the drivers door lock is manual and controls all the other locks with that master switch "actuator" (there's actually no motor in it). I opened the switch and checked the internal contacts. Everything is operating as it should. No cracked solder joints or excessive corrosion. It's nice to be able to open components. When I was looking in the FSM, allegedly there is a power lock actuator on the rear cargo door (the car is a wagon/estate). If so, it's never operated as a power lock in my ownership and doesn't trigger the door lock light. I've always used it as a manual lock. Perhaps the actuators are ran in series and when one goes bad, the rest don't work (like old school Christmas lights). The locks don't make any noise. They operate as manual locks and the 3 doors other than the driver door and rear cargo door trigger the door lock light.

Thanks! I just remembered that, being a DL, your ignition switch won't fit my GL, unless you have the optional tilt column.

Have you opened up the locking actuator to see what’s amiss? I’m guessing it’s a sealed unit now that I suggested opening it up… does it make any noise when being told to do something?

You can buy whatever bolt you want off of EBAY. Be sure and get grade 10.9 high strength bolts. The original OEM bolts are most likely OK so you don't need to get paranoid about replacing them. Just do not over torque them. Which is 47 ft lbs to 55 ft lbs. Fel pro gaskets go longest, and only blow out when the bolts loosen up due to water intrusion. About 100 ft lbs will break the bolt off at the face of the block.

'89 GL wagon Last winter we had a cold snap and some component of my power lock system froze. When I unlocked the car in the morning, I heard something break inside the door and my power locks stopped working since. The locks still work as manual locks. The door lock light on the dash recognizes every lock except the driver door. So I took all the driver door lock components out and nothing seems broken. The plastic pieces are intact and the mechanism functions smoothly. I replaced the door lock actuator (unknown condition of the actuator, I didn't pull the part myself) and nothing. No difference. *Edit: I just checked the terminals of the driver door actuator and it's operating as it should. Fuse is fine, I really don't think it's an electrical issue. Possibly electromechanical. Any ideas? :]

Sure I can agree with most of that. But I’ve also lived the vintage Subaru life for decades now and I’ve made that extra effort and was maybe lucky enough to find the older gentleman still working their last years who actually did help me. Yes, odds are drawing thin. The bigger issue as I’ve mentioned before is once you hit the 80s and SOA flexes muscle on dealers they’re all scared and scrap old inventory even breaking parts or making them unusable. Clean the old bolts super clean and chase the threads in the block blow them out, use solvent, blow them out, and try your bolts by hand before you even hang a head. Good luck.

I've learned not to waste my time trying the local dealer's parts counter. Once they realize you're not in there for a $500 oil change, they basically ignore you, then if you demand attention and get them to look up a part, they give you a price five times what anyone would pay, so you go away. I know someone who used to do a lot of work on those, and he always re-used the head bolts...

My daily driver has about the same amount of rust... the secret is mine is the dark metallic red, which hides it!

Partsouq is my go to, even just for part numbers. Sadly for me they don’t do VINs of the Brumby and L series eras.

What’s part no.11 - Head Plug ? p/n 11051AA010 Do I see three of those needed on the drivers (left) side only? That’s what I see in this FPC Been ages and also never had to bother doing headgaskets on an EA82 since I had a million of them cheap as dirt. It was a different world not that long ago.

scoobydube, you should have seen her in her prime! -82baru

bushytails, thanks for the response. I'll start pulling the parts you need this upcoming weekend and will contact you directly once I'm able to see what kind of shape the parts are in. -82baru

Nevada’s numbers are 100% correct as verified, and the parts catalog I had is a 1985 and YES the dimensions are mentioned and OP is correct, So now you face the limited supply issue. Get what you can. One tip has been offered. If our good old buddy Numbchux has time or if you can have your local dealer’s parts counter person do the same. Too many these days want to blow you off but hopefully you’ll catch them at a good moment. West coast suppliers - KEY - I’ve had my local dealer check western distribution and get parts to me way up here in New England. One other place to check. We have a killer retail place here called the Nutty Company. Seriously check them out. Not that you’re going to use this option for this application but I have bought length of threaded rod for our exhaust to head applications. They would be the first people I would check with. Good luck. I can’t add a link but it’s nutty.com and the absolutely ship too.

I use partsouq.com a lot for various manufacturers, occasionally Subaru (I work at a Subaru dealership, so the VAST majority of my Subaru cataloging is licensed software right from Subaru of America), but similarly they don't usually have stuff right up to current years. parts.subaru.com has abridged diagrams for all current US models.

Howdy Trying to help a friend finding parts and just noticed that my go to online parts catalog stops at 2007.... https://www.ilcats.ru/?brand=subaru&function=getModels&market=lhd&language=en Opposed forces site seems to be down... Any links to other parts catalogs sites? tnxs!

800211050 and 800211060 are the part numbers in the Subaru Catalog, and is the only part number I see for EA82 cars. (I work in parts at a Subaru dealership). I never did take the heads off an EA82 car, in fact I scrapped many running ones in favor of an EJ22. So I don't claim to know the dimensions. But those are the correct part numbers. They are discontinued. But my parts locator shows Nelson Subaru in Martinsville, VA having 5 of the 060 bolts in stock. If that's accurate, they'd probably be tickled pink to sell them.

A faulty vacuum pump in the distributor causes all kinds of problems. So does a faulty O2 sensor on the exhaust. My idle adjustment screw is on the top of the intake manifold. You would back it out to get leaner and higher idle rpm. As you back it out, the rpm will stop getting higher. Then you stop and turn it back in 1/4 turn. The distributors need to be rebuilt as the ball bearings inside tend to wear grooves into the two flat plates that they ride between in my 86. The swing weights in the guts of the distributor can get funky and bind up. Don't expect a smooth operating engine if you have never checked your distributor for wear.

Sweet ride.

the bolts on the front and back in the top row, can get water intrusions that both rusts the bolt and causes them to back out. If you caulk the holes above those holes, the problem goes away.

Those are the wrong bolts. The OEM are M12 x 1.25 and extend about an inch into the block. Grade 10.9. Yes you can break them off at the block if you apply more than the prescribed torque. And the broken tip takes a couple of hours to remove. You reuse the old washers.

Make sure the pan isn't dented underneath and ATF filter isn't nearly 20 years old and stuffed? Do a drain and fill and see what comes out of the pan? Was it a 1710 code or 0710 code? 0710 isn't showing in the 06 Tribeca FSM I have, they go from 0705 to 0712, maybe 2008 is different. Here's what the FSM has for P1710: P1710 TORQUE CONVERTER TURBINE 2 SPEED SIGNAL CIRCUIT 2 MALFUNCTION

That's wild. Glad you figured it out.

Two of your old bolts are probably crusty; just hit them on a wire wheel and re-use them.

I need a torsion tube with good outer bushings, but shipping one is difficult, and it'd make your car a non-roller if you pull it. I could use a blower motor and blower motor resistor, an ignition switch, a rear wiper motor, and the long chrome plastic trim around the rear hatch button, if it isn't broken off its standoffs like mine is. Looks like you don't have a/c or cruise parts. But, I only need those as spares, as mine are currently mostly working, so give anyone who has a broken car priority. Well, not having my wiper return to bottom automatically is getting pretty annoying... Someone posted recently looking for windshield wiper arms; you could message them. Also, someone was looking for a driver's side rear door, if yours isn't rusted out at the bottom. Struts, rear CVs, and brake calipers are all NLA and in demand, but I just ordered struts (if I actually get them, I'll be posting how!), and I already have a spare cv and a pair of extra-crusty calipers. If your radiator is nice, they're also impossible to get.