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When salvaging the engine from the wagon, all the sensors came over to the Brat, along with the cut-down loom and ECU, because all was running well (in the wagon, 5K miles on that swap). Also the exhaust, and fuel pump. So the knock sensor came with, and the cut-out stutter began in the Brat. The trouble code for the knock sensor showed intermittently at first, so I removed it and inspected, tested wires for voltage, sensor for resistance. All looked good, except for a small crack in the sensor. So I replaced it with a new unit, and the problem persisted, though the trouble code stopped. I changed the front O2 sensor and ignition coil at the same time as a new alternator, as the original alternator was suspect. Then the crank sensor because that trouble code has been consistent in both cars, and still persists. Though I don’t think it’s the issue, because the idle is so darned smooth, and because the crank sensor trouble code has been a fact of life all along, since the first swap of this engine into the wagon. I’m just bumping along, trying new sensor after sensor, with no success in improving the performance. The latest change was the throttle sensor, because the symptoms align in my mind with that unit’s function. I’m a few days away from trying a resistor to replace the knock sensor, hoping that will give me a direction to follow. BTW, a few weeks ago, I did replace the ECU with one that matches the engine, and putting that in also did not one bit of difference.

I need to split a transmission soon, and I'll be replacing all the seals while I'm at it... will need to figure out how to set the gears, not just mark the positions. yay.

You’ll be right. Do one side at a time so you have a reference point for the removed sundial. If the dial becomes hard to turn about two notches past your original start mark, back it off so the marks line up. Can’t go wrong doing it this way! Cheers Bennie

Thanks Bennie, Yes, that's what I'm doing. I have the o-rings as well and was able to get them new from the dealer. All I had to go on was this diagram

When you say “centre seal” do you mean on the sundial? The seal is fitted from behind the sundial, so once it’s removed you knock it out towards the direction of the diff (orientation when the sundial is fitted). When you fit the new seal sure you have the correct unit to put in as they are directional. Also have a new large O ring on hand to install too. When you remove the sundial from the gearbox, mark where it’s currently located across the dial and the gearbox case, count the number of turns until the dial is free from the threads, also a good idea to mark where this point is so you’re not potentially counting a turn that’s not engaged on the thread. Cheers Bennie

Had some time to do some work today on the GL. Got the axle out of the way for my axle stub seal replacement, ordered a knock-off of the sundial gear socket and did a test run on this spare transmission that I have. Looking at, still not sure how I'm supposed to get this center seal out. I did knock out the ball joints on it and I'm so glad I bought this Astro socket several years ago.

Also I checked my service manual, there is no power that goes to the sensor. Only ground and signal from the sensor (a resistance value). If you'd like to test the CTS, get a bowl of water, heated to the temps below and read the resistance values. The values are: 7-11.5 kOhm @ 14°F 2-3 kOhm @ 68°F 700-1000 Ohm @ 122°F I should note that the troubleshooting diagram in the service manual states that unless there is some form of initial combustion when starting the engine, your issue is NOT a CTS. If it does fire and dies, then it is possible. But if it doesn't have initial combustion, then I'd look elsewhere.

Could be very possible, engine harness wiring is old and has been dealing with heat cycles for decades. Do you have an engine wiring diagram? If not, they're available online. I could get you a (not broken) link if you need it. PLEASE CONSULT A WIRING DIAGRAM BEFORE YOU GO DISASSEMBLING ANYTHING. For your own understanding and sanity. It may be worth pulling the engine harness (with a diagram by your side), remove the plastic loom and test the wiring. I've had to do this before, bending every wire along its full length to find any internal breaks in the wire. Also test the resistance of every wire, obviously starting where you think the issue is to potentially save yourself time. If there is an intermittent internal break, your ECU may not throw a code. This can make chasing an electrical issue even more challenging. It could also be a bad ground (I believe a ground issue should throw a code, but checking the resistance of engine ground wires isn't that big of a deal) Also, is there white crusties on the CTS or the intake manifold threads? This could cause a ground issue to the CTS. :]

I replaced the gas a few months ago, fuel shouldn’t be the problem as if it was I wouldn’t see why it would work with the test connector and CTS situation as for an update on that, I tested the harness going to the CTS and found out I was getting no power which I would assume some current would be going through so I saw that as a problem, tried doing my tried and true method of going direct to power and then plugging the other part of the harness in to the CTS, haven’t found much success with that. Either I’m very wrong about how this sensor works or something is wrong with the harness going back to the ECU

It's not the 16 flashes after start up indicating a fault code. When driving for a while, it will start flashing continuously. Engine Temp is fine, normal driving no shifting issues. Turn the car off and start it again and the AT TEMP is back to normal. Helping a fellow here in Colorado Springs. Thoughts? Thanks, Larry

G’day all, I’m after other EJ22 head gasket part numbers that might be available. I have these part numbers: 11044AA111 11044AA112 Both are unavailable over my way. Hoping the later model EJ22 you guys seem to get in the phase 2 will have another part number I can try. My almost teenage son and I are sorting out a gen2 Liberty/Legacy for him to learn to drive. It needs HGs… I like genuine parts where possible, but if I can’t find any I’ll checkout what’s available aftermarket and go from there. Cheers Bennie

Wire in a check engine light - you’ll be alerted to faults that are present and can check for any stored codes - this is a real help when diagnosing engine issues with modern efi engines, even with conversions Cheers Bennie

Oh yea, according to Uhaul, I only use their equipment to move 90s Corollas and Civics

The Diagnostic Flow chart for that (Subaru lists under P0638 to refer to P2101, so you might find more information that way) has 29 steps to it, and only the last 2 suggest replacing the throttle body. In short, it means that the ECU is asking for a target throttle angle, and the TPS reading it's getting back does not match. There are FSMs online in various places, I suggest looking it up and running through that chart for your car (FYI, the "U5" section is California Emissions) You are correct that the "sensor" is not a separate replaceable part, as it is integrated into the actuator and motor. It's actually 2 redundant sensors.

Long time reader, first time poster. I have a 2000 Legacy GT Sedan, EJ25 and it appears to have 2 PCV Valves that are fighting against each other to relieve the crankcase pressure. I have a PCV valve facing up from the block, and a PCV valve in the intake facing out with one hose going between them. Every other EJ25 I've seen has one of the other, but not 2. Does this sound right? I bought the car overheating, did the head re-surface head gaskets, lapped the valves, new timing belt, water pump etc. The 2 PCV valves back to back is throwing me off. I have a 2001 outback with the EJ25, 2000 outback with the EJ25, and a 2001 forester with the EJ25, and they all have one PCV valve in the intake. Any help would be appreciated. EDIT: I figured it out, one of them is not a PCV valve it's just a nipple off the intake.

Have you flushed out the old gas or is this several year old gas? Also, have the fuel filters (all of them) been replaced? Is there sediment in the fuel tank? If you're not throwing codes and you were experiencing fuel issues, that's where I'd look first. The only bit that confuses me is the test connector/coolant sensor scenario. Have you tested the coolant sensor for the proper values? Hang in there :]

Thanks, Bennie, I had no check engine light. The main 6 pin relay was clicking but not tripping. After tapping it the fuel pump relay and pump came on and the engine started, Yeh. I will replace the relay to help with future reliability.

I got the part in today and just installed it, should fix the code but still hasn’t fixed the no running issue

Have you interrogated the fuel pump relay to ensure it’s working properly? How are all the electronics stored in the beach buggy? If the relay is left to atmosphere conditions it could be dirty contacts - in the fuel pump relay and/or the main six pin relay. If the ECU is getting power but the fuel pump is not activating, how are your earth points looking? You’ll find your wiring harness diagrams somewhere. Alternatively this is where you now spend the time probing every single wire and recording what it does and where it’s located in the ecu pinout. Not fun but could help with future trouble shooting. Have you checked for codes with the check engine light? Cheers Bennie

Good point. But which other inputs are required? Harness was modified so that clutch switch , trans switch are bypassed. My main issue is none of the wiring diagrams are correct for my engine. I have just found a manual for an AUS spec 2.2 1994, and the plugs are the same , but the wires are completely different.

By "earthed solenoid" I assume you mean "grounded the coil of the fuel pump relay". So far, so good. From where you are, I wouldn't jump directly to "bad ECU". Let's go back to first principles, and stop me if I get anything wrong. The initial failure symptom was no fuel, but you know the relay and pump are good, so you changed the ECU, but that didn't solve the problem. You're reading that as "two bad ECUs", where I read it as "ECU not the problem, because you just swapped in a known-good (according to the supplier) one". The whole point of the ECU is that it listens to a whole bunch of inputs and drives a whole bunch of outputs. So I'd be looking at all of the inputs to see which ones need to be satisfied in order for the ECU to want to pump fuel.

Your brats came with hill holders?? We missed out on this. My 1990 brumby does not have one but my 1988 L series does (as did my sister’s old 1984 L series sedan). They do need adjustment. Small amounts, test - adjust - repeat until you get the release point you’re happy with. Cheers Bennie

Yeah, right up to that point. At least it’s not life threatening and you know know to expect it now. Cheers Bennie

Yup, right up until you go to change a ball joint, and the bottom of the steering knuckle swings out a bit, and instead of the rollers in the inner CV hitting that internal stop, the boot pulls off and the rollers fall on the floor.