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I wouldn’t leave a 20 year old belt on an interference engine. If you’re positive it’s Subaru it’s got a lot better chance than aftermarket I’ve seen clutches free up on older ones that sat, just by driving. I’d drive it and periodically remove the FWD fuse to see if they’re any better. Initial torque bind almost always responds well to fluid changes so that’s worth a try IMO.

Definitely change the timing belt kit! Check the main fuses under the bonnet to ensure that’s not a possible reason as to why your cluster isn’t working. Also check all the connectors are properly plugged in behind the cluster. Hopefully not rodent damaged! Cheers Bennie

I put the FWD fuse in today, no FWD light, but the speedometer of the cluster is out as well. The AT Temp light is not flashing after starting the car. More digging.

To bump an old thread back from the dead. I believe I'm having similar issues and I'm looking at replacing my fuel pump as well. 91 Loyale. Should I just try and source a 1990 f150 fuel pump new and be able to install that no issues? I appreciate all the info and help.

Mizumo sells Mitsuboshi timing belt kits on fleabay that include Aisin tensioners. Check the tensioner for hydraulic fluid loss around the lip seal on top of tensioner. Always a good idea to change belt, idlers & tensioner while there. Cheap insurance against bent valves! Save your money and just buy ATF Dexron/Mercon cheap at a local store like North 40 in 2 gal jugs. Do a flush by draining the fluid then refilling, drive for 100 miles then drain & refill again. Do this 3 times. Don't take it out of Park until you're sure it's refilled to cold low mark while idling. Get yourself 3 one gallon milk or juice jugs, cleaned and dried out. Pour the first draining into one jug to gauge how much to put into the second jug for refilling the trans before starting the engine to check oil level cold. Saves a lot of time filling, checking level, etc when flushing the trans. Any additive that causes seals to swell is a bad idea.

Did you notice the old pads wore evenly when you pulled them off? There's one pin that has a rubber damper inside, that tends to swell and cause pads to wear lopsided. It eventually causes sticking issues because the pressure is more like a parallelogram than square. I remove those when redoing brakes.

I picked up an 05 Impreza, low mileage 60K. The Speedo does not work and it looks like the milage readout may have burnt out. I'm thinking a new gauge cluster. - The Timing belt has not been replaced, it's low mileage but old. I think it the idler bearings and seals should be changed. I'm also a fan if it's not broken don't fix it! Your thoughts? - Auto trans had a bit of torque bind, by feel. Not flashing trans temp light on start. The car did sit for years, so I hope the clutches were just drided out and it will free up with some mileage and a flush/TransX treatment. What do you think?

No chance it’s a dust shield rubbing somewhere that changes with heat and brake use? Other thought is the wheel bearing is on the way out. Worth jacking the wheels off the ground and checking for bearing play. Cheers Bennie

I did clean up the calipers before installing the clips and pads, but I’ll get some hoses . Thanks

1. Check the pad clips. They may be bent or have rust on the caliper which pushes the clips out a little. I’ll remove clips and make sure no rust is bubbling under them on the caliper bracket. 2. hose collapse. If a flexible rubber hose collapses internally it’ll prevent the fluid pressure from backing up and the caliper can’t release fully. The brake booster provides enough pressure to push through it. It’s not very common on Subarus. I highly doubt it’s the master cylinder.

Working on my daughter’s 2007 Forester X , front disc, rear drum. Bought it used and it had semi metallic pads on it from the previous owner. Brakes felt weak so I bled them. Once I did, she started to get a grinding/scraping noise from the front, but the brakes were better overall. I pulled the calipers off and put ceramic pads and new hardware on it, cleaned up and greased the slide pins too. Still made noise but only after they got hot. I bled it all out again and pulled the calipers to work the pistons out and pressed them back in 4 times per caliper. Then it was better, really had to work at getting them hot enough to get any noise but it was still there. As soon as you touch the brake pedal the noise stops and the car stops great. But as you drive off, grinding and scraping. Nothing is touching the rotors but the pads. I honestly can’t tell if it’s both sides or just the left, sounds more like the left inside the car. I’ve never run into this. What’s next, both calipers or master cylinder? thanks

I wouldn’t think there would be two wiring systems. Seems a bit over kill and more expensive from a production point of view without any real gain from this setup. Are you sure the cluster being bench tested was actually your cluster in the video? Cheers Bennie

I bought a Y pipe from David M on the face book groups. But it’s the later wide case version. It looks like I won’t be needing that one. Paid kind of high by my standards but we do what we do sometimes. From way back when I know we used to flex the Y pipe to make an 1800 fit a 1600 or the opposite. I might have a first gen narrow case EA71 Y pipe in storage but for now I don’t think I should let that one go. Up here it’s fairly relaxed with the vintage cars. We are very lucky with no inspections at all. I have a couple projects coming which should be my last. When the dust settles I’ll spill off what I don’t need. You know where I am. If you or anyone wants that widecase Y pipe from a 1600 send me a message. This pipe is perfect for the 80-83-ish 1600’s

There's a feller selling an exhaust for an ea71 from the exhaust ports on the head back. I have an ea81 and I was wondering if I can make this work Thanks in advance for any advice on the matter, or if anybody has a solid y pipe from the heads back past the collector 🤣

Search the Eastwood website for how to videos on prep & paint plus other info. https://www.eastwood.com/garage/ They should also have metalprep solution for bare metal. Check your VIN plate for a paint code or some other sticker with that code for color match. Take that code to a local auto body supply for mixing a quart if that's all you need. Learn by doing.

Thanks for the information! I would assume I can pull the headliner and get to the roof ones, but you never know. If i can just sand the rust out and it doesn't create a hole, doI need to do much else besides prime and paint? Where's the best place to source paint?

Thank you!

Thanks for the responses. el-freddo - yes, you've got it right, speedometer works fine, odometer and trip odometer (at bottom of speedometer) don't work. I should mention that its an analog odometer and trip. I do have a wiring diagram which I've looked at, and it doesnt really show any separate wiring for the odometer and trip.

In the 70's we used Alumalead or Tigerhair fillers for that sort of rust repairs. Those fillers are long gone now but Eastwood does market some similar fillers for rusted panels, but it's all in the prep beforehand to make it last. Back up the larger holes with some fiberglass cloth & resin if needed to hold the filler, if you can get to it. Again, it's all in the prep just like painting. https://www.eastwood.com/ew-contour-alum-repair-compound-25-3-oz.html https://www.eastwood.com/usc-all-metal-2-1-lb.html

currently waiting to have my cousin buy the transmission until were 100% sure it will work.

If I’ve got this right, the odometer and trip meter don’t work but the speedo showing how fast the vehicle is travelling does work - correct? Do you have a wiring diagram for the instrument cluster and dashboard wiring loom in the vehicle? I’d start by searching the wiring diagrams to see if there’s a seperate earth or sensor wire to the odometer and trip meter. Then go about interrogating the wiring associated with the speedo, odometer and trip meter to check of any issues. Cheers Bennie

I just packed the hole. No mesh. My repair was in the crotch of a y as the exhaust splits to 2 mufflers. Just checked out of curiosity and it is still holding strong. Couldn't hurt to create a "wrap" of the edges of the hole where some material is on the inside and some on the outside and then fill in the middle. Or tuck a tiny piece of copper mesh on the inside slathered with the sealant. Attach and use a piece of dental floss or thin string to pull the patch up against the inner wall and then slather on a coat on the exterior surface. The area I worked on wasn't conducive to cleaning so I just relied on the silicone to do its best.

Hello Everyone! My question is not in regard to a Subaru, but I'm having trouble finding quality feedback from other groups and I trust the members here so I'm hoping someone has some insight. I have a 2006 Nissan Xterra and the paint is just crap. I recently noticed little spots of rust popping up through the paint, even where there is no damage. Is there anyway to mitigate this without cutting it out, welding in a new piece of metal, and repainting? I'm not really interested in letting the vehicle fall apart or getting rid of it, but I can't justify a 6-10k bill to have a body shop fix it. I'm handy with tools, have a professional grade HVLP gun/system, angle grinders, die grinders, etc..but welding is not.my strong suit, especially on gauged metal. Any help is greatly appreciated! All of my of my pictures are too large to upload, but I'll work on getting them downsized.

Thanks for the info! I never thought about using fire caulking on an exhaust system... I've put many tubes of that stuff in buildings... Man do I hate it haha. But I bake a $15 fix! Did you just cook the hole, or put some wire mesh over it than the caulking?