Leaderboard

power steering wire, if it has it, is right by the pump, not at the back of the engine. start looking at the pump, not elsewhere. if the steering rack to steering column ujoint is seized you'll also be fighting stiffness in that joint. check that and change fluid.

i use this on my Subaru's that don't have a voltage needle since they're usually base models that don't have them.. they range from $5-$15, depending how long you would like to wait for your shipment. there's different syles and different colors of them.

If you've got a gen3, on the RX models at least, there's a wire on the back of the ps pump, make sure this is connected. Now, I don't know if the GX has this. I believe it's a solenoid to restrict the flow of fluid to the rack when driving at speed to give more "feel" in the steering. At low speed manoeuvring, this would make the power steering seem heavy. Another thing to check is to make sure there are no cracks in the remote reservoir pickup hose as these will suck air. This is for the Gen3, the Gen2 has the reservoir on top of the power steering pump. Cheers Bennie

In case you’re not aware I’m cleaning out massive amounts of parts and stuff from New Old Stock to great used hard to find parts. These days I’m sadly on face buke , but if you haven’t done that yet I commend you. But seriously it was easier to post there so that’s why I’ve stuck with it for now. The main three sites I go on for Vintage Subaru activity are: Classic 4x140 Old School Subaru Group and of course the Ultimate Subaru Cult - lol - sorry for that. The latest edition of this board is much better. Just have to shrink my photos for this board. So I’ll be posting here as I can. But to save time please see if you can check out my goods over on FB (gag). Best part about this board for us is that I’ll use the messenger here. But NOT face buke’s And you can always email me at moosens@yahoo.com Enjoy summer !

If it reads the correct resistance at a number of temperatures, and that is read steady, not jumping around, only slowly drifting as it heats or cools, then it is probably good. If it is jumping around, that's bad, like the bad one I had. Yes, the fuel pump should run momentarily when you first turn the key. I'll add this part to my list of pieces to find replacements for....

Try a Drain/Flush/Refill for the power-steering fluid. There should be a procedure for this in the FSManual. It involves draining the fluid through one of the lower hydraulic fittings, and refilling. There's a procedure for removing air from the system, which effectively flushes the system as well. I did this a few years ago on my 2002 Forester. I couldn't believe how black and gunky the drained fluid was.

Either the pump is bad or you have some suspension problems perhaps. Strut mounts, etc. GD

Right now your car is worth little more than scrap metal. If your broke park it. Other wise haul it south and get it fixed correctly.... chances are the dealer would screw it up.

Good old fashioned test light is my tool of choice for these kind of problems. An incandescent one, not an LED, so you are putting a load, albeit a small one but normally enough, into the circuit. Hook it to the battery first to get an idea of how bright it is at a full 12 volts. It's pretty easy to tell if you have some voltage drop from the brightness, and you can verify with a meter while the light is connected. I use ordinary paper clips with one leg straightened out to insert into connectors. Check across the power and ground wires at the connector, not from the power wire with your test light clipped to another ground.

Lots of things going on. Most recent being I got my 33’s! Love these tires. Very aggressive I also sheared some teeth off of my transfercase gears so I’m currently dealing with that. Hopefully I’ll have it fixed by WCSS