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Remove computer, and throw into nearest landfill. Install Weber. GD

^^^^ good point see if spraying starting fluid will keep it running - then you'd know it's fuel starved

I agree about the air flow ... however little that might be. I think they put the lower cover and the large plastic top covers on , so when the buyer opens the hood it looks FULL (even though it isn't) Consumer wants to think he is getting something for $20,000 +

Theoretically, that plastic shield may also help reduce fuel consumption a little, by smoothing out the air-flow at high speeds. In practice though, this improvement may be miniscule, especially for city driving.

Confirm your fuel pump is putting out , also make sure your getting full voltage at battery , the fuel pump won't run past the start position if voltage is down. Pop the rear seat up and check if power is reaching the fuel pump. Double check all your grounds. If it idles fine for 5 seconds , I doubt that it is a vacuum / disconnected line issue. Fuel or electric is my guess.

You will need cvj grease. NAPA has it. You need specifically CVJ grease. A tool to tighten the bands that seal the boot. The front and rear are different. If they are not making hideous noise or vibration, they will probably be good after cleaning, re greasing and new boots. When you get them apart, it's normal to see very Shiney areas where they run. You don't want to see rust, oitting, big scratches and stuff like that.

On that style you just press in on the white plastic tabs and it will pull off. It's a special end on the pipe that you can't replicate with any reasonably priced tooling that I know of. You are going to have to replace that with some braided stainless hose and do some metric bubble flares to either swivel fittings or barb fittings, etc. This isn't going to be easy really. You might want to seek professional help. GD

Complete 25D with 251 pistons and 04-07 STi head gaskets (642's or 770's). We do them all the time. GD

It’s not *struts*. The *strut mounts* permit rotation via bearings for steering but the ones I’ve seen should make noise as well. Ive shot great grease into dry/rusty bearings of front Subaru top mounts before that are rusty and making noise. That Freed them up.

What you have---- X, X Premium, LL Bean: 2.5L 4 cylinder Boxer engine, SOHC 16 valve, Active Valve Control System AVCS Fuel system: multi-port sequential fuel injection, distributorless ignition Compression: 10:1 Emission choices- run the vin to see what your was sold as--- probably fed emissions 2.5L, VIN 6, 6th digit), SOHC, California emissions (2.5L, VIN 6, 6th digit), SOHC, Canada emissions (2.5L, VIN 6, 6th digit), SOHC, Federal emissions use car-part.com to see compatibility between legacy, outback and impreza years and models that work.

The nozzle has the mechanical feature to shut itself off for safety reasons, like people walking away from the car. The quote I posted suggests it might interfere with nozzle's ability to self-turn off. If you start bypassing evap lines or plugging them, you might run into other issues with drivability. If that evap line is blocked completely (you'd have to plug it off) it won't be able to purge the tank of fumes when/as needed, and might start throwing a CEL, dunno how sensitive the systems are. If the vent is blocked on a healthy gas tank/car, as the fuel level drops, it'll create a vacuum. If the vacuum is strong enough, it can stall the engine. Dunno if the gas caps on these have vents or not. Not my strongest area. If it's a beater or something done as a temp. bandaid fix, it's up to you. For long-term drivability, I'd just fix it.