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keep in mind that one time isn't a good diagnosis. maybe if previously it was problematic 20 times in a row and then this worked. but walk carefully around assuming too much. a. you've identified the safety switch as a potential issue - i'd wash-rinse-repeat and make sure i can pinpoint the diagnosis b. starter relay mod is a common need - people have posted diagrams on how to do it, might want to search for that. c. the battery contacts/terminals/cables need to be clean and tight d. the starter often just needs new $10 contacts. remanned starters are a roll of the dice, though the odds are in your favor but they're still not high. you're better offer replacing contacts and keeping the original OEM starter than replacing it with aftermarket.

What John said - You need 3-4 feet of pipe or breaker bar. The right size metal pipe slides right over the handle of a socket and works perfect like butter. Take you 7 seconds. a 1 foot breaker bar is basically a joke except for the simplest of home type mechanics - you're beyond that if you're playing with an engine out and on the floor. a 1 foot bar is like trying to be a butcher with a butter knife or change a tire with a screw driver or paint an entire house with a fine point art brush or plow 10 acres with a hoe...etc, that will work....sometimes...with enough luck and effort. Had the harbor freight socket not failed, you may not have ever gotten it off with the air tools either if they're not heavy duty enough. a 1,000 ft-lb 3/4" air gun with upgraded high flow milton fittings won't budge some nasty axle nuts for some reason.

That switch is located just to the left of the shifter. Pull the center console to access. Had the same problem in my 95 2 summers ago. Even changed the starter as you did. Same results. Added the starter relay modification and problem solved.

Don't hone it: http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm

To change plugs: A search found this: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/111-gen-1-1995-1999/390178-how-i-changed-my-spark-plugs-ej25d-tips-future-readers.html It's a PITA on the EJ25D engine in you OB......done it, didn't like it. Your engine is in the '96-'99 OB/GT/LSi, '98 Forester and '98 Impreza RS Buy the NGK platinum plugs which are good for 60K or if you're cheap get the copper version and do 'em again in 30K miles. RE: the misfire? see Lucky's info above, but I'd also guess the valves have never been adjusted as that's also a PITA, or worst case scenario you have a burnt valve...been there, fixed that w/a 2.2 (EJ22e) swap.

i certainly wouldn't pay much for an aftermarket one if you end up going that route. make sure it's the right one - it's easy to screw up part compatability/interchangeability on a 1999 Subaru. OEM fail so rarely that a used one for a few bucks isn't a bad idea. that's what I'd do.

Have you tried cleaning the MAF? I would only buy an OEM MAF sensor, the aftermarket ones just aren't worth the savings, but then again, I pretty much only have turbo'd Subarus.

Cometic is ok - but I only use them if I need a special thickness. They are more expensive and less available than the factory gaskets. There is no real difference between 642 and 770 other than some minor cooling port shape differences. They don't matter and either work in every application in my experience. GD

@3crows - are you saying that the gearbox let go/broke/has done something stupid? Engine is running ok then, just weighed down by increased friction in the gearbox? Cheers Bennie

Use a 3 to 4 foot cheater bar and may consider moving up to a 3/4 inch socket/breaker bar.

get a better 6 point impact socket, try popping it in the TIGHTEN direction for as fast as you can get your finger on and off the trigger - then try removing it ?

Thank you for your comments, gents. El Freddo - I'll certainly be checking that pump thoroughly, I have a Subaru Sambar service manual which I use for engine work- it is the same engine as far as the major components are concerned. I have all the new seals too. General disorder- That article is really useful, thank you; I was concerned about the honing part, especially as it would likely be done inaccurately with a hand drill as I have seen and read all over the internet. Doesn't seem the most professional method for these Japanese motors.... it scares me a bit! Additionally, the bores actually look really good, and I was secretly hoping that a good reason NOT to hone the bores would crop up. And it is totally intuitive that a well 'finished' shiny not worn cylinder is what is needed. Four bores like this; excuse the shop-rag residues: There are even traces of the factory honing on all bores: The pistons show a light polishing on the pin sides of the skirt, but no 'rubbing'. I am installing brand new Subaru rings, though the originals look quite good too. (I snapped one stupidly while giving the piston a preliminary clean, damn they're fragile) . Something to clean the grooves with! I am waiting for some parts, which gives me time to check and clean, and I'll post my progress and countless questions. Thanks again!

642's were used on early turbo models. 04-06 STi IIRC. So they are not strictly an NA gasket. They do fit the porting on the SOHC heads a little better but we have and continue to use 770's on every engine when the 642's are not available. The porting really makes no difference at all. GD

I never hone any engine except as the final step to an over-bore. If the bores are bad it needs to be oversized or have sleeves installed. Honing will not fix out of round, hourglassed or tapered (or all three) bores. And it isn't required for ring seating. So it serves absolutely no purpose. GD

Sadly if you take your car to a Subaru dealer they will generally install the gasket specified by Subaru. For many this is the 11044AA633 Gasket that IS NOT a Multi Layer Steel gasket

I'll be going for the turbo gaskets on our EJ251 next. The stock replacement gaskets are leaking coolant externally after 80k km :/ i can't remember the part number used last time around... Cheers Bennie

I installed the 11044AA770 'Turbo Gasket' in my 2002 Forester EJ251 NA (Non-turbo) engine. It seals absolutely tight, without a hint of leakage.

11044AA642 is the Multi Layer Steel gasket for the Non Turbo EJ25 motor 11044AA770 is the Multi Layer Steel gasket for the Turbo EJ25 motor Installed properly these will be best option.

(142713912360) ebay item # 642 Subaru MLS Pair $76.00 delivered No debate use at least these or the turbo head gaskets. Don't mill the heads ,Clean them up with 150 grit WD and then check for flatness. Check valve lash while you have them on the bench.

I recently bought a 05 legacy gt. It was stage 2 when I bought it. Catless down pipe, after market up pipe, full Cobb intake including intake Manifold , Cobb access port and straight pipe exhaust. It ran great at first. Now it is sputtering real bad around 5 psi. I took it to a shop and they can’t find anything wrong with it. I have seen on some of these forms that a lot of people have had this problem with stage 2 but not any Solutions. The only code on the car are about the manifold. I’m wondering it that’s not the problem. Anyone have any thoughts or advice? Thanks