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Rejoined the Subaru family with a pretty clean 1986 Subaru GL. I was reading a thread on replacing the seats and figured I'd better join the forum. I used to have an '89 GL, and loved the 4WD in the snow. Looking forward to using it again this winter. Cheers from Rat City.

I have a 93 and an 87. I intend to run them indefinitely. Plan on stocking up on NLA parts. Getting creative with adapting generic parts when needed. Plan on doing all your repairs, unless you are lucky enough to live near another one of us crazys who run these EA82s. Plan on continuing to have ridiculously low tax bills. No emmisions testing hassles. If it runs and drives you might get 1000 for it from a just anyone kind of buyer - who will be screwed the first time anything real breaks... If it's near mint and no rust you could get more, but there are not a lot of us around... my 2 are very low rust, so I'm not looking for another one. The only trouble I consider "fatal" is when the rust gets out of control.

Update. While checking everything out I also checked the belt that I installed about 5K miles ago. It looked fine but I decided that a little more tension will not hurt. That fixed everything. Apparently it slipped a little with the engine cold. Now everything is back to normal. My thanks go to @1 Lucky Texan for the idea of checking the hoses, etc.

Yeah all the Euro stuff is complete trash. VW is near the top of the list of "do not buy" Euro trash. People that buy Euro cars new are hilariously uninformed or are just buying them on lease with the full intent to trade it in after 3-5 years. These cars are the automotive equivalent to the latest model cell phones - designed for a "lifetime" of the lease term. After that the manufacturer (if they haven't been sold off to the Chinese like Volvo) could care less what you experience is with it. You aren't their customer - the guy that traded it in is. GD

If removal of oil pump is anything like VW type1-3 engines, it really helps to loosen the case bolts near oil pump before removal. EA engines would be the same I think. Case halves pinch around body of the oil pump.

I think the center diff is currently residing in the back seat.... I will have to do something with the CV's. Luckily, I don't have far to move them.

Here's a pic of the shaft in question: GD

Your not the first. Try getting the engine up to operating temp and try to twist both directions. This guy used a dremmel and cut it out and that still did not work. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5735677-36-mm-socket-cracked-then-disintegrated-my-oil-filter-housing#/topics/5735677?page=1

The calipers are *not* locked, it is all but impossible. The *slide pins* are locked. There is a difference, that's just how mechanics distill it for public consumption. It's a market driven price - priced right around the sweet spot of shops making easy money with repeatable results, happy customers, and consumers not wanting to deal with options. That price is about right - Very roughly it's $50 caliper, $50 rotor, $50 pads = $150 + $150 labor = $300 per side. You want to make sure the shop is using sil glyde or some other high quality cailper grease. the traditional old style grease causes the pin bushings (which subarus and other cars never used to have) to swell and is low grade stuff anyway, but there are still people using it. You could get this repaired this for about $300-$400 by replacing the slides and pads. This is what I would do and so I'd have you're entire car fixed for $50 in parts (free labor). Here's what you need to repair the "stuck" caliper, buy these and find a mechanic who will install them: $16 for two of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Carlson-Quality-Brake-Parts-14149/dp/B000C00XI2/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534858754&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6-0&sr=1-7&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aoutback&keywords=caliper+pin+kit $7 for one of these (this set is for both rear sides): https://smile.amazon.com/Carlson-Quality-Brake-Parts-16083/dp/B000ZN3GNK/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534858754&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6-0&sr=1-4&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aoutback&keywords=caliper+pin+kit&dpID=41khsjLQ5%2BL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch Any average shop in the northeast has to have a torch to function so they have the tooling to remove even a terribly stuck slide pin, you just need to find one that will do it. If you want - you can even buy new caliper brackets - they're like $20 each, here's one for $25, then there's absolutely no question since no torch or time is needed to free the stuck slides: https://smile.amazon.com/Cardone-14-1605-Remanufactured-Caliper-Bracket/dp/B003PINW7C/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534859313&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aoutback&keywords=caliper+brackets&dpID=4179Sj5u1ZL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch You spend $25-$100 in getting the right parts and a shop charges $300 labor - and they're making the same amount of labor doing this rather than replacing the calipers.