Leaderboard

I remember when I got my first subaru and when I arrived on my job site early one dark winter morning and I got frustrated and finally just disconnected the battery until after work when I had time to look into it. I felt pretty silly for some reason. You never forget your first time lol

Perhaps too much heat was used and fried something. I have soldered a couple dozen of these and it's 100% success rate so far. Strange. GD

Other thing is, inspect every connector. With your dash being iffy the large plug on the back of the gauge cluster is suspect. I'm sure you have already checked that they are plugged and tight but you may need to look for wires that backed out from connector when you plugged in. Problems like this are very frustrating, huge job most of it covered up now.... It worked before you started soooo its something that happened while you were in there... If you have a buddy who knows cars, use another pair of eyes ... sometimes you just don't see things after you have stared at it for hours on end.

So you do know how to use YouTube. Look up how differentials work. There is nothing wrong with your car. GD

Alright, the timing was just off, I just re-did it by night after work (Since the forecast shows rain all this coming week and I don't have the luxury of a garage up here) and now I'm right back where I started, idling between 1000 and 1250, but with all the power I've ever had. Hmm.. Now with seeing how much the timing can effect the idle, next clear day I get I'm going to have to pull the distributor cap off and make sure that it's perfectly lined up on cylinder 1 at 20degrees BTDC. Thanks as always for your help guys, someday I'll get this high idle figured out. Until then I guess 24-27 mpg is almost as good as the 30-34 I used to get.

I don't remember seeing any real major grounds except for a couple that bolted to the frame near the airbag controller (not sure of the term) but I'll definitely take a closer look. It's been a few years since I did anything more on a car than change the oil and I'm probably in over my head a little. Definitely a big job and electrical isn't my strong suit. Thanks for you reply!

Replace or straighten the pan. The fluid pickup is very close to the pan and restricted fluid flow will cause problems.

Yes , do it your self. Not hard at all just pay attention. Nothing special needed.

There are 3 marks on the FW for cam timing. Use the middle mark only for L or R cam timing setup. Ignition timing marks should be obvious. I painted my 20* & middle cam marks with a silver paint marker for clarity. Any light color paint will do. Yup, the split where the VC meets the cam tower is a good reference for cam sprocket lineup. Those videos kinda got buried in the last forum update I guess along with some great old threads about Frankensteinian transmission mods, etc. Time for new bookmarks.

Foreign engines, lynwood, WA , Coer D ' Alene ,ID. imports transmisions . They ship. 800-552-1595

The screw with the gear teeth should be the adjustment screw. If it does nothing, someone turned it too much and broke the plastic gears inside.

Well, I've sold this Outback 2 times now. First to a Co-Worker and then to a Friend. Two weeks ago, it was stolen out of her driveway. Who steals a 98 Outback with 240K on it. Yes it's a Subaru. Anyway, the police recovered it. The oil was way over filled and missing the cap. Battery dead. I charged the battery and changed the oil and filter. Put some gas in it and the 2.2 started right up.I did the 2.5 to 2.2 conversion about 5 years ago. I love those 2.2's. The transmission seems to shift into all but 1st just fine. The clutch pedal feels good and the input fork is moving. There is absolutely no transfer of power from the flywheel to the transmission. No loading of the engine when you let the clutch out with the transmission in gear. The only other time I've seen this was on a 2000 Forester and when I dropped the trans the center hub of the clutch was completely disconnected from the clutch disk. It looked like they downshifted from high speed or were rolling backward and popped the clutch. More then one Mechanic has told me they have changed Subaru clutches with the trans pulled back to the end of the long bottom studs! Is that really possible? With my change of jobs, I have limited time and limited space and the owner has limited money. Just thinking I may be able to get them back on the road in an afternoon. I don't like the idea, but I'd be willing to try. Thanks, Larry