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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/08/18 in all areas

  1. 442 can be a number of things. To know for sure you need to have a smoke test performed. First step is to get a new fuel filler cap from Subaru. They occasionally go bad and aren't that expensive. Clear the code and see if it comes back. If it does have a shop perform a smoke test - tell them you want to do the repair yourself you just need them to tell you where the leak is. GD
    2 points
  2. That should be a MAP car so the intake air temp sensor is usually in the airbox before the throttle body. GD
    1 point
  3. I’m making storage so I can easily get down my aisle and still pull a box or hopefully even get to the large heavy stuff in the back so I can sell all winter. I’m already late in getting out of this expensive unit so probably not downsizing until March. We’ll see. Thanks for the compliment. Todd , myself , and a couple others were really lucky that we had the special era that we did. We were able to hunt and sometimes find old stock at old dealerships. And then came the contact made from a local near Harrisburg PA and three of us from CT went in on a nice sized lot neglected since around winter1979/spring of 1980. As time went on it became clear that many old dealerships simply destroyed old stock. Enjoy !
    1 point
  4. The warning light is as low pressure light. It does not indicate the level is low. If you had to add 3 quarts and it barely registers then it was completely out of oil. This usually results in irreversible damage to the engine. When you change the oil, you need to cut open the filter and check for metal, etc. GD
    1 point
  5. That is not a freeze plug. It has a hex key recess in it. It is the access to the wrist pin on the cylinder adjacent. It opens to the crank case. The only freeze plugs are in the head, under the rocker covers.
    1 point
  6. Well that was a success. I cut the connector off the new TPS, and the connector off the stock harness then soldered everything together. The car drove better on my test run than it has the entire time I've had it. The only difference between the 2 was the new TPS has a white wire instead of a green wire like the stock harness has. If anyone is looking for a new TPS, it's part # TPS4085.
    1 point
  7. As long as you are going in a straight line, you can shift from 2HI to 4HI and back at just about any speed you like. Just back off on the gas when you do. Clutch works too, but is not necessary. I have no experience with 4LO. If your tires are not all the same size, it will stick in 4HI. If this happens, it is time to rotate the tires to even the wear.
    1 point
  8. After all that, the engine Runs Flawlessly, Stable and Reliable! As I explained at post Nº 3 above, I obtained another Weber 32/36 carburetor: So I changed it after a Decade, to test the Choke and Anti-Dieseling Fuel Cutoff solenoid: Photo of the finished install: Here is how the new Weber looks, already installed and Running smoothly: And This is How my 1985 Weberized EA82 Subaru Wagon Looks Now: Named: The "BumbleBeast" Here's the Build Thread: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122276-the-bumble-beast/ This is a Video of the Weber Carburetor, Working on my "BumbleBeast" Subaru: Feel free to ask Any questions regarding the Weber Carb Swap, on its Discussion Thread, which is Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148641-to-27-loyale/ I Hope This Write-up will be Helpful. There are interesting comments regarding this writeup, on Facebook, like this one: If you find this writeup, Useful, please let me know by hitting the "Like" Button below. I only ask this as a Motivation to continue Sharing my work with you. Kind Regards.
    1 point
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