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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/02/18 in all areas

  1. So I went to the car. I was alone so testing spark was not really practical. I popped off the distributor cap and what I found is in the attached photo. A few hang ups with a dropped screw but got it together and drove it home! Kind of a weird design because that screw is kind of difficult to get tight. I did notice that even with the screw tight that there was a little rotational play in the rotor when I turn it by hand. Should it be like that? Seriously, thanks so much. Thanks! kmpdx
    2 points
  2. Don’t worry about the extra gaskets, the EA82 is bound to leak after the first start up. Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  3. Shouldn't be much play with a quality rotor. But it's not all that critical since once it's locked down you adjust the timing by rotating the distributor body. Any error in the rotor to distributor shaft position will be accounted for and eliminated in the timing procedure. Put some blue loctite on that screw. And it helps to use a JIS screwdriver to tighten it. GD
    1 point
  4. I'd the cranking sound an even 1 2 3 4 rythm, or sychopated? Broken belt is noticable un even.
    1 point
  5. Battery is clean but its overall integrity is not the best. I really hope it is the rotor and not the timing belt...Just cause here I am living in apartments and I am limited in things like draining radiator. I have actually replaced timing belts and rotor relatively recently. I don't think I put loc-tite when I did the disty-rotor. My fingers are crossed that is my problem
    1 point
  6. I bet the screw fell out of the rotor mine did before.... aside from that my lack if preventative maint got the best of me and I broke a timing belt 3 houses down lol... Totally agree with General Disorder had both happen at one time or another... I'd also check/clean battery connection terminals just because...
    1 point
  7. Absolutely. They are intended to be ran and driven in D-Check mode for diagnostic purposes per the FSM. It's not the same connector used for pulling codes. You are supposed to run them through a diagnostic that includes driving at I think greater than 15 mph for at least 10-14 minutes? I honestly don't remember the exact params. GD
    1 point
  8. Sudden stop while running - most common is distributor rotor screw, or d/s timing belt. Fuel pumps don't stop while they are running unless they lose power. Check for spark - just pull a plug wire off the cap and hold it near to the tower with some insulated pliers. Should have a nice blue spark. Check that rotor screw first. GD
    1 point
  9. @GD Will they start and run with the diagnostic connectors plugged in? I have never tried it.
    1 point
  10. Fuel pump cycles because you have the green diagnostic plugs connected. Not related to your no-start. GD
    1 point
  11. I usually just grab a screw driver and insert it in to the spark plug wire boot. Hold it a little ways away from ground like the engine block while someone cranks it over. The spark should jump a small gap. You can also use a spare spark plug. Make sure to provide a good ground for it. Lay it on the engine or something.
    1 point
  12. Fuel pump will Shut off when pressurized... turn on ignition but don't start it!! should be mmmm,click.
    1 point
  13. Timing belt or distributor rotor hold down screw came out.
    1 point
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