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We do this ALL THE TIME. And we are an engine builder and tuning shop. I just bought a $100k Dyno-Jet. With the JE hybrid pistons the compression ratio and quench volume are corrected and the engine is simply a 2.5. We have customers making 375 wheel on this combo with ease. There is NOTHING wrong with 2.0 heads on a 2.5 bore. A stroker is a TON more work than a stock 2.5 with pistons swapped. GD

Wire wheel works. Pull the valves and detail them. Or just leave them be. Not much benefit to cleaning them. GD

Figured I'd close the loop on this. Issue resolved. There was a PEBTAC (Problem Exists Between Tool and Chair) component in that I (inexplicably) had the top and middle rings swapped. Yeah, stupid, but I don't think it caused the trouble. It was simply that there was a little tiny ridge on the chamfer that was catching the ring, and with each tap of the piston the ring just made it a little bigger. I still don't get what originally caused the ridge to form, but once I dressed it off with a little emery cloth (and corrected the ring order, of course), all four seated in just fine.

You're not missing anything. The parts store doesn't have any magic, just a voltmeter like yours. I mean, if someone had a reason to really characterize an alternator, he'd have a test jig that could spin it at selected RPMs and a variable load so a determination of the power (that is, both the voltage and current) the DUT (device under test) can deliver at specified speeds and loads could be made. But you don't need to do that, and presumably the parts store can't either.

Also wanted to link this diagram incase anyone needs it. It's for a Loyale Turbo, which I do not have. (I have a 88 SPFI 4x4 Manual) but it did help me find the neutral switch as they are in a similar position. Neutral Switch is #7 on the diagram. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1990_Loyale-WAGON-TURBO/_80160_6027483/MT--REAR-CASE/A11-120-01.html

Updating this after almost a year with some new information. I found out the cause of my severe engine braking was actually due to a faulty Neutral Switch Assembly. According to this thread > https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/34730-neutral-switch-on-manual-trans/ < it's suspected the that the neutral switch assembly keeps the fuel injector spitting fuel into the intake when you take your foot is off the gas while you're in gear. A faulty switch assembly will cause the injector to immediately cut off fuel, while your off the gas, in gear, and cause you to eat the dash. I was getting a CODE 51 and investigated. I pulled the Neutral Switch Assembly last night, cleaned it, and re-installed. This fixed my issue. I'll do a write up on the location of this switch on the trans with images. Cheers to keeping these old babies running! WOO!

Yep. That's how we do it. Refurbished OEM is the way to go. GD

Here is what I would recommend modifying or replacing if you're removing an EZ30 for any reason: Cut down the bosses on the timing chain cover and use shorter bolts, gives you a lot more clearance at the lower radiator hose. (see above) Clearance the timing cover around the upper water necks so you can fit any hose and hose clamp on there. Check the coolant fittings under the thermostat. (see above) Check the oil pressure idiot light wire, I think it's above the oil cooler. Mine was hard and insulation was starting to come off so I replaced it. Might be something you can get from the dealer at a reasonable price. Replace the valve cover gaskets and oil cooler o-ring (orange), these seem to always leak. Inspect all hoses, many of them will be rock hard and break when you remove them. (see list below) If you have a manual trans inspect the fork for cracks, check the release bearing, pilot bearing, and clutch disc. The FSM has a spec for wear on the clutch disc. If you don't expect to have your engine or trans back out for a long time at least replace the release bearing, pilot bearing, and clutch disc. All the parts I ordered from the dealer for the H6 head gasket job are listed below. They do have a gasket kit but it includes a lot of things you don't need or won't be disassembling and it's $271. 1 10944AA003 head gasket 2002 OB driver H6 1 11044AA603 head gasket 2002 OB passenger H6 1 806931070 o ring rear cover plate 2002 OB H6 - did not use this, didn't seem to be leaking. 1 806786040 rear main seal 2002 OB H6 - did not use this, thought it would be more hassle than it's worth trying to get it out without splitting the block. 2 14035AA410 intake gasket 2002 OB H6 (head to intake) 1 14075AA132 intake gasket 2002 OB H6 (gasket for flapper under intake, probably didn't need to replace) 1 807611060 pass side coolant hose 2002 OB H6 oil cooler 1 99078AA110 pass side coolant hose 2002 OB H6 oil cooler 1 807611071 driver side coolant hose 2002 OB H6 oil cooler 1 21328AA053 steel coolant pipe lower 2002 OB H6 - this was kinda beat up from my skidplate 1 21370KA001 oil cooler o ring 2002 OB H6 1 807607251 Top rear pass side coolant hose 2002 OB H6 - this was the only hose I replaced that was still in good shape 1 99078AA090 Top front pass side coolant hose 2002 OB H6 1 99078AA120 Top front driver side coolant hose 2002 OB H6 1 807615030 oil pan front driver side hose 2002 OB H6 1 806970030 o ring water pump 2002 OB H6 (inner, included with new water pump) 1 806982030 o ring water pump 2002 OB H6 (outer) 1 21110AA360 water pump 2002 OB H6 1 21200AA072 thermostat 2002 OB H6 1 21236AA010 thermostat gasket 2002 OB H6 - still the part shown on the dealer parts site but the part I got ends in 050, seemed to fit fine 1 21114AA063 water pump gasket 2002 OB H6 8 806914120 o ring 14.2mm dia 2002 OB H6 timing cover 2 806919120 o ring 19.2mm dia 2002 OB H6 timing cover 4 806925100 o ring 25mm dia 2002 OB H6 timing cover - only shows four of these on the dealer parts site but there are five on the engine, reused one of them 1 806738200 front main seal 2002 OB H6 2 10982AA000 Washer 2002 OB H6 (timing cover) - these were really stuck to the cover, I just put silicone around them 1 15208AA031 H6 oil filter 5 800406020 oil pump bolts 2 800406030 16mm outer cover bolt 1 16102AA260 solenoid valve - the one I broke the fitting on 2 44011AE040 ex gaskets 2002 OB H6 1 807506131 hose pass front intake/head 1 22310AC000 hose driver front intake/head 1 99071AB280 hose vacuum Also probably should have ordered that oil pressure relief gasket shown above. There was at least one more hose near the front of the intake that was rock hard and broke when we removed it that I couldn't find on the dealer parts site so I just cut a piece of hose to fit. I also got idler pulleys, a serpentine belt, spark plugs, and a pilot bearing from Rock Auto and replaced those while it was apart. Even if you didn't replace the water pump and a few other things and don't break that solenoid, it's still $400-500 in parts with shipping, and you have to machine the heads. So almost definitely better to just buy a JDM EZ30. It takes a long time to disassemble and reassemble one of these engines, and we didn't even split the block. Really should have just swapped in an EZ36 and standalone from the start. Next time.

If the passenger side had the wire clip... so did the drivers side...

Before we go nuts on diagnostics, has anyone pulled out a voltmeter to actually check the charging voltage and battery voltage? If I was to take a wild guess it sounds like your alternator has crapped out. What you describe is typical of running off the battery.

well, after posting I spent some time shopping. The OEM hose is around 160 bucks, a UAC item from RockAuto is $17 ! and, the fan is also offered by several aftermarket co.s . I think I'm gonna try one made by Spectra - I 'back-tested' these brands looking at Amazon reviews, you're right, there aren't a lot, but ,yeah, not enough reviews to really dilute any 'fake' reviews so, not 'risk-free' decisions on my part for either item. wonder if I can do the fan assembly swap without taking a hose off? I'm not opposed to doing it from underneath even if the undercover has to come off. and the way the hose seems to go into the firewall is odd.

It is interesting that some of us, always have to bring our old-school Subies to the conversation, despite that the Subject is another Subie model that almost has nothing to do with the old one. It happens to me a Lot. The Story of the Subaru BRZ is almost Equal to the Story of the Subaru Baja, but something that might lead the BRZ production to cease, is not only sales records, but also the fact that Toyota is now in Partnership with another car maker, to build another Sports Coupe: BMW. ~► http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1088184_bmw-and-toyota-alliance-to-spawn-high-end-coupe-most-likely-production-lf-lc Others says that Such a Toyota-BMW super coupe is Bullsh¡t, but the same happened years ago when the Subaru-Toyota project for the -then- new AE86 project was only a Rumor, see: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/50983-strange-and-weird-subaru-stuff/page-11?do=findComment&comment=647249 Only time will tell the Truth... Kind Regards.

No its for real just finished runing it up pulls good the nurled pisstons make it tight though needs lots of breakin time no piston slap thats for shure. I will be doing thiss swap alot as 2.5 phase 2 moters get harder to find. At least i can sell it with some reliabilaty. The 2.5 heads fitt the 91 block fine other than some small headgasket mods. Ask me what ej parts interchange with other ej parts i have a list. After my 200th ej engine rebiuld i started to mix and match a bitt i have so many moter parts that is easy to look at interchangabilaty and i have a planer so i can custom set the deck hights and head hights / comp ratios i do subaru moters all day every day. Todays engine is a 2.5 d bored .50 over with a 2.2 crank and 2.5 sti pistons and rods with lowerd deck hight with 2.2 heads reground cams going na into a 87 chaser with 5 speed high low. Customer whanted low compretion to be able to run low octane gas but still make toruqe

EvilDead, Info on your photograph? Not the car, the photo. Equipment? Filters? Notice I didn't refer to it as a pic. Did you do that on purpose, or was it an accident? Good photo either way. Bill

My daughter's 1996 Legacy with 116,000 miles on it is giving symptoms reminding me of our Forestor when the MAF was bad about 14 years ago. At that time I just dropped it off at the mechanic and they replaced the MAF. I have a Code reader that provides freeze frame data and live data. Any suggestions on what I should look for in this data to determine if it is the MAF? I'm thinking of getting some MAF sensor cleaner, but from the severity of the symptoms probably the MAF is already dead.

I've seen the metal one's swapped over to the plastic one's with seemingly no issue. Seen it done a couple times now. GD

I have to pull exhaust studs and intake pins then i just jig it up and plane them takes about 1/2 hour each valves in needs to be clean and dry. The block halfs are a bitt harder to plane takes some difacult jiging up but they come out very good and gasket sealing is not a problem when both head and block are planed. Oh that post about engines thats 3 different engines not one

Subafreak's "Monster Wagon" Build thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81629 is that a ct plate i see? where in ct is he? i would love to stop by and check out that lifted wagon! glad to see others in ct

Durania - I did a double take with that license plate. This car here (jake15 on Legacy Central) is probably my favorite pre-facelift Legacy. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=40174

Thats pretty cool. The snorkel opening goes way up into the cab... I can see a comic bit of the passengers head getting sucked into the opening. At least it keeps the moisture out of it. :-p