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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/15/19 in Posts

  1. Well there doesn’t seem to be enough interest to part it out and I still haven’t gotten anybody who’s seriously interested so looks like I’m keeping it. Fine by me haha
    2 points
  2. Hey JesZek, we haven't met (virtually). I just wanted to say I've followed your posts for years and that your creativity, passion and attention to detail in all of your work is part of why I've come to love Subarus the way I do. You and the BumbleBeast were fresh on my mind when I bought my old Loyale, the first car I ever bought, and you were my go-to source for a number of projects on that car and especially on my brothers carbed GL wagon. I can say for certain that I wouldn't have this rusty old RX in my garage right now, with parts in tidy little boxes in every corner if it weren't for you. What I'm trying to say is, your work was formative in the early days of my mechanical evolution and I will always be grateful for that. Though the virtual manifestation of some of your work may be gone from the internet, due to the Photobucket mishap, there are hundreds or maybe thousands of people who were impacted by the love and careful attention that you put into that stuff and that's not ever going away. I'm a journalist and filmmaker, out of school just a few years ago and working construction to pay the bills while I build my portfolio. I pursue a career in storytelling because I believe in it's power to do good in the world. Your story, Jeszek, and the way you tell it, is beautiful and I look forward to the next chapter. Good luck to you, friend. Best, Jared
    2 points
  3. Still into my resto mod “if you can call it that” build on my 91 RS Loyale. I’ve always been a fan of improved lighting technology. Not only for a cleaner more presentable look. But safety as well. My goal is to update what I can in a tasteful manner. Ive swapped over to the shorty front bumper and started with having custom led front turn signals made by a buddy of mine! This is just the beginning
    1 point
  4. @sparkyboy - any words in the form of a description as to what’s actually happening there? Got a new project? Pulled the EA82 turbo for an EJ20 turbo?? Putting an EA82 turbo in??? Too many questions raised. Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  5. You should do a google image search for “Settlement Creek Racing” Scroll down to see the pic: https://allevents.in/griffith/subaru-brumby-race-car-on-show/169638510505561 In action: Epic build! Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  6. I found a forester version of your car !
    1 point
  7. 1 point
  8. Replace the PCV valve. And stop using 20 weight. Run 5w40 synthetic. GD
    1 point
  9. don't ever just cut wires.. you can cause more problems than it solves. Pull the fuse for the tail/clearance lights in the fuse box, but only when the car is stopped/shut off, until you can find the source of the issue and correct it properly. or, you can try unplugging the column switch - you will have to remove the covers to get to it, but that should just be a few screws accessed from the bottom side of the column. you can access the wiring diagrams for your car here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/
    1 point
  10. You can always remove the negative battery terminal to prevent battery drain when not running.
    1 point
  11. You need a hose and an o-ring for the PS. No big deal. The roaring noise is a wheel bearing. You won't feel it by turning the wheel and checking for play. You need to stethoscope it on a lift at speed. These are problems that all Subaru's going back to 99 had. Talk about premature bearing failure - ask the early Forester owners, or anyone that owned an SVX. The old PS pumps leaked like crazy from the seals. That goes back to 90 or earlier. They all do it. There is no difference in quality between the cars. You people have anecdotal evidence based on one or two cars and their specific failures. I work on hundreds - probably in the neighborhood of up to 100 a month. Almost exclusively Subaru. And seriously - get off it about plastics. They are here to stay. I just replaced a broken plastic heater control on an '86 Subaru GL with 130k on it. I also broke about a million plastic bits doing a heater core on a 1990 Corvette last week. Plastic is here to stay and has been for *quite* some time. And some of it is quite good actually - glass fiber reinforced ABS and Nylon has higher tensile strength than Aluminum in some cases and for some applications has greatly enhanced thermodynamic properties. GD
    1 point
  12. you probably just need an o-ring on that adapter on top of the PS pump. likely it's sucking in air. not uncommon across several models - I had that problem on both my soobs.
    1 point
  13. Go to www.car-part.com and find the fans you need if they won't fit. Compare the fan diagram and part numbers on Subaru's online parts database - parts.subaru.com Frankly there is nothing wrong with using a quality plastic unit. Get a Koyo or a CSF. The Spectra ones are junk and we have seen a high failure rate with them. The good plastic ones will last about 10 years. Welded aluminium is good for maybe 20 years. Brass/copper is good for 30+. The brass/copper factory radiator in my '69 GMC pickup is still going - 48 years later. You can have them made if you look around for someone in your area that does old radiator repairs and fabrication. There's a guy down the street from me that has been doing it for 40 years. Act fast though these guys are retiring and dropping dead on the job. GD
    1 point
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