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So I had a bad clunking going in and out of 4WD. Tracked it down to a toasted upper differential bushing. I could lift the differential by hand. Subaru part is NLA, but Superpro makes a replacement SPF3005K. Tools needed are: 17MM 21MM Milk crate to set the diff on Hack saw Somewhat of pressing the new bushing in. Some way of lifting the car I backed it up on some 6x6 to get enough room. I couldn't press the old outer because I lacked the correct die. So I ended up cutting a slice out with a hacksaw. I used a bolt and some washers to press the new one in. So I took it for a test drive, and it was so smooth going into 4WD I though it wasn't working. Push the button and let off the throttle at any speed and you can't feel a thing. Same goes for disengaging.

So there is a mark on both cam pulleys and on the flywheel, and marks on the cover and bellhousing to line up. You install the drivers/dizzy side first. Reinstall the crank pulley. Then rotate the engine one rotation. The drivers/dizzy cam mark will be pointing down. I would recommend pulling the alt, ac compressor, battery and ac bracket. Makes getting to the water pump pulley and timing belt cover easier to get to. You won't hurt the motor turning it.

The mark on the flywheel is 3 vertical lines. You position it so the cast arrow edge lines up with the center mark. What ionstorm wrote re cam pulleys, and turn the crank one revolution between belts. I made the tool for sething the proper tension. Put 15ft lbs of tourque, snug the idler bolts. Do both belts, then do a 10 second run. Re set the tension. The belts will have walked into the position they want to run in, and usually are loose.

For the wipers - if you have the actual OEM pieces, try to find refills. They are the standard metric narrow kind. Just fit them by dimensions. I have the OEM blade holders on my 2 wagons. None of the aftermarket replacement assemblies worked as well. The OEM ones are stainless steel, and still good 30 years later.

The fuel lines are swapped around. Check the three fuel hoses and verify where each goes by looking at pictures online. You’ve got two of them swapped. Or check/swap fuel pressure regulator. I don’t know the symptoms when those fail but... Could a line be clogged - bugs get into open hoses and build nests and pack them with mud.

If your talking about the date the car was made, the plate on the door says It was made in late December of 86. I ran more tests today, I replaced the knock sensor plug with one from a donor car. It measured 5 volts with key on engine off. Then when idling at temp, it idled at about 1000 rpm and measured 3 volts at idle, not 1.7. I also got around to checking the coolant thermosensor plug, it is corroded beyond belief and somewhat damaged. I'm going to see if I can replace that as well.

That's the sound of all the money in your wallet being sucked into a black hole while you attempt to daily drive a 30+ year old car that's been sitting. GD

Piston slap isn't a thing on 2009's. GD

I would just change the oil and fuel, and start it first. No reason to mess with compression unless it runs. Fuel is easy, just pull the hose going into the fuel filter off. Extend it with some more hose into a jug. Connect the green connectors and turn the key on. It will cycle the pump on and off. Keep pumping until its all out. Then look at the fuel and see if there is a lot of curd. If it looks clear, throw 5 gallons in, hook the hose back up, unplug the connector and see if she runs. PS: white on black text is a pain to read!

Never get into a situation where you are returning a vehicle you have bought to a used car dealer for "repair". Even if they "fix" it, they will do the absolute cheapest job possible since every dime they spend on the repair is lost profit. The worst thing you can have is a botched head gasket replacement - that's worse than just letting them leak and dealing with the smell, etc. We have seen them blow out and overheat, we have seen them strip the heads on the block, use the wrong parts, put the head bolts in the wrong holes, etc, etc. It's a bad situation to be in. Sounds like they did a crap job with crap parts. GD

Wouldn't that clog up the filter?

This link was in the article you posted earlier. It has good info on using existing wiring for the speed sensors mounted on the tranny. You can use a large as possible paperclip or a small flat jewelers screwdriver with the edge of the blade against the pin to release the tab so you can pull the pins out of the connector and put them in different holes. If you have an old unused connector experiment on it first. The tool has to be inserted on one side of the pin. There is usually a small slot for the tool. I have done that many times with electrical equipment. You may have to pry the tab back out a little so it will lock in place when inserted. https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2005-how-to-wire-your-4eat-to-5mt-swap.414786/ For the i10, i11 thing, I would not do that. Pin 13 of i10 is the vehicle speed sensor input to the speedometer. Check out the combination meter wiring in the FSM.

Just to let you know I did not forget. I had to order toner for my laser printer. I need to print several pages of the wiring diagram so I can compare the wiring of i10 and i11 and the circuits they connect to. The wiring diagram spreads the connectors out over numerous pages. I'll be back when the toner shows up.

yeah, read 2-3 times of folks using WindoWeld to make/repair bushings - even 1 or 2 youtube vids on that I think.

People make their own bushings with like polyurethane or whatever stuff for diff mounts. Is there a reason the same can’t be done for the auto trans mouths? If not that would be an option.

Probably better off fabricating your own mounts. Not much available that's decent quality. With that kind of mileage and in mint condition - much better to sell it to some foolish collector than to keep it. Rob some fool of multiple thousands of $$$ and run away before they can renege on the deal. GD

Many parts for these old ones are NLA, so it's going to be a search. Junk yards, forums, ebay. Keep an eye out for parts cars too. It is likely there is a range of years that will be interchangeable, - I don't happen to know this year. Earlier ones were, and the ones with EA82 engines are.