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how bout clogged fuel filter? has it been changed recently?

can you take the mental ego or “gas mileage” hit, whatever it is you love about MTs when going to an AT? once you’re over that hump relax and get an automatic. If moving a 4” stick around is a necessity then you’re at least easily entertained. The automatics are far superior. offroading, loading trailers, reliability, drinking coffee. popping the clutch to jump start an MY is the only advantage to an MT. With the availability of tiny portable power packs that’s almost a nonissue. contrary to your comments the manuals have PITA clutch wear items, synchro failures, input shaft bearing failure, less forgiving 4WD vlsd failures, are commonly replaced instead of repaired, and they’re not easy to find which doesn’t help prices now or in the long run. Much of that is user wear but not all of it and all 20 year old cars means buying used transmissions and repairing/replacing with equally used ones. You mention autos being scrapped when repair is needed - Manuals get scrapped and swapped when they fail too. No one replaces synchros and many swap instead of repair input shaft bearings. The autos don’t fail enough to be a statistically viable concern. As said earlier age and history are the driving variables. 01-04 H6 were my go to car to help people get (and ive owned a few) for 10 years or more. Great cars. Now there’s just too much rust around here to consistently recommend local purchases. that being said EJ25 headgaskets aren’t hard to do. Widely available, you could buy a blown one and get a short block from Subaru for $2,200 or so with 36k 3 year warranty to start with a near new engine with warranty...(cue building movie music)...in front of an MT. I don’t know which years got which oil pumps but I doubt it’s a one year answer. probably more like Forster X got it but legacy Y did not....etc. you could look up the part numbers on a Subaru online parts store and click “what this fits” to see years/models

Yes, but the internals of a phase 1 EJ22 manual gearbox are identical to the GL box. To the point that it is possible to recase a GL gearbox using an EJ front housing to avoid the need to use an adapter plate when EJ swapping... this is what El Freddo has in his. Subaru strengthened the gearboxes a bit with the move to the SG series Forester.

Hmmmm, "silver washer behind oil pump pulley" Ha, first you called it a shim, now it is a washer.... I think it is just the belt guide, can't even recall if it is or isn't just part of the pulley As Dave says, the oil pump does not have to be timed to any other rotating component. Actually there are cut outs of the pulley "washers" that I use to access the pump to block bolts, so always turning pump on its own. Never heard the cock and ball story you found !

No, turning it by hand isn't going to do anything to the oil pump. You can't move enough volume fast enough to harm anything.

FYI, the 2000 & 2001 Outbacks have 9mm oil pumps, I think from 2002 and on they had 7mm pump. There may be some exceptions, not sure.

Numbchux, I can't thank you enough. This is exactly the kind of big picture insight I was hoping for, very, very helpful to me. I just got back from driving a craigslist 2001 EJ251 4AT with 270,000 miles, it needed work but it drove well and it was dirt cheap, didn't buy it because with an AT I want an H6. Gave me a new appreciation for these older Gen 2 OBs (and I'm not biased, my Toyota DD is 37 years old with 409,000 miles). I have been overthinking this, but that's easy to do with an unfamiliar vehicle, I have a Black Belt in my DD but Subies are new to me. For many years I have wanted a silky smooth 6-cyl car, in part because my DD sometimes vibrates so much I need a kidney belt and I have had enough vibration to last me several lifetimes... always thought that would be a V6 until I heard about the Subaru boxer engines... my intended use is light offroading (forest roads, occasional bumpier stuff) while exploring and dispersed camping off pavement... Sierra Nevada, Colorado Rockies, maybe up into Canada... lots of freeway miles where noise and comfort makes all the difference over many hours. So the H6 appeals strongly. Though when my friend gave me a ride one time in her H4 I couldn't believe it wasn't a V6 it was so smooth. I'm an MT guy but I'm thinking it wouldn't hurt to consider a 4AT for the softroading part, especially considering that when I go on an exploring roadtrip in the current MT DD I shift into 5th and stay there for hours on the freeway anyway. The posts about a failed AT meaning the end of the car kinda ruined that, but you have turned that around with your post about the availability of good used ATs. And I agree about the 2005+ CANbus cars. As a network engineer, this is like depending on an eggshell to keep the car running. Too many essential functions depending on a single point of failure.

Hey all, I'm now looking to clean everything up, put on the cam seals/O-rings, and get this all back together. One SNAFU I've seem to have found is that the back timing cover on the PASS side is a little warped and is too close to the cam sprocket for my taste. On the DRIVER side, the back cover rubs the idler pulley a little. I might have to modify this (ie. SAND it down for clearance) some if I keep the covers on. I haven't decided on that yet- I live in snow country. Anyway, Step-a-Toe, here's the pic of the silver washer behind the oil pump pulley. Speaking of that, While looking at that washer to see what it was, I moved that oil pump pulley a little counter clockwise, and of course clock wise to get a better look. Turning the pump a little clockwise by hand wouldn't screw up the oil pump up, would it?! I read in another post about removing the pulley fouls up a check ball or something if you turn it the wrong way? First time I heard of this..Seems odd to me because if you are moving the engine to change belts that are still on and the whole shebang moves counter clockwise when loosening the crank pulley bolt and it slips, it moves that way? Anyway, thanks for the great help so far..

I've also been experiencing this "intermittent AWD" issue for several years on our '99 Forester. I'll be following along...

Removed it and got it seated finally! I think I may have gotten a little crazy with the anti seize in there. Cleaned it out and am now good to go. Thanks for all the help.

Here is a photo of the ones i want to change if i can find them is these the drive plates or driven plates? and if i can get them do i have to order them separately or can I get them as a complete set? thank you for helping me I cannot get the dealership to help me at all... called wallace subaru and the guy was so hateful to me. and said they were obsolete... the ones i hope to get is marked they are sort of a bronze color

exploded Parts diagram on Opposed Forces site... part #20 is the "basket" - called complete shaft in the parts list.. and yes, it would appear that the piece you marked in red in the picture is the backside of that part... http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_17/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_3/ I have pointed out some of the grooves that need to be sanded out below.. on both the outer basket and the inner portion..( ALL grooves need to be removed.. not just the ones pointed at, btw) grooves will typically be worn in all the way around. If they are severe enough, it would warrant replacing the parts rather than attempting to "fix" them The clutch plates need to move freely inside the basket.. when the baskets get these grooves worn in them, the plates get stuck and do not move properly.

some folks would go to car-part.com and just slap in a used trans instead of busting inside the trans.

HI, Yes....they are...should be able to pull that part off and sand it down. There was/is a Great Post on here that I followed. I can't recall the 'poster' but likely Search will find it or maybe on YT. I did that on mine to repair the TB and delayed AWD. IIRC, you'll want to also replace the Duty-C ...it's easy to do with it all apart and they do fail.

Torque bind. Change the fluid and ensure all 4 tires are the same diameter (size and tread wear/depth) immediately. If this is an initial onset, changing the fluid 2-3 times can alleviate it. If it needs repair there are two causes: 1. install FWD fuse - if this works then the duty solenoid is probably fine and the clutches need replaced. 2. if the FWD fuse doesn't put the car in FWD and it still binds then the Duty C solenoid is bad. usually best to replace solenoid and clutches at the same time. The transmission doesn't need to come out to repair - they're all accessible from under the vehicle by pulling the rear extension housing case off which isn't that hard. If the FWD fuse works then a work around is to install a switch that toggles between the FWD fuse and no FWD fuse so that you can have either "FWD" or " 'locked' 4WD". Then just keep it in FWD all the time unless you're offroad or in snow. I've done it before and it's a beautiful fit in some situations that don't warrant the full on repair and makes the car 100% functional for $5 in parts and very little time of some simple wiring. Or you can just embrace the high maintenance an leave the FWD fuse in all the time and pull it when 4WD is needed. But if you need it often that's going to be awfully annoying.

1+ on Torque Bind. Search it on USMB, lots of great pics and info!

certainly sounds like torque bind. does you model have a FWD fuse - maybe on the strut tower??? of course, the tires should all be the same circumference. Same brand/model/size and near each otheer in wear.

Not too much progress since my last post. I haven't finished the A/C, so it pretty much had to relax in the garage all summer and I've driven my Forester. I drove it to work and back the last 3 days now that it's starting to cool off and it's been running great; although I've been babying it with all the new parts and trying to get the clutch broken in. One thing I've noticed is that it warms up and gets to operating temp super quick with the single row EA radiator, but as soon as the ECU turns on the first 11" fan, it stays right at this temp. The temp drops when driving and the fan will cut off, but at idle it pretty much runs constantly. The second fan has yet to come on, but I don't have the A/C hooked up yet either. Ran two mechanical gauges for oil pressure and water temp, it the temp shows about 195° when the first fan turns on and that's pretty much where it stays. So I wouldn't recommend that fuel pump to be quite honest. It is annoyingly loud. I can hear it whining inside and outside the car while it's running and it drives me nuts. It is also overkill pressure-wise, but here is the link to it (I *think* this is the one): https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/precision-fuel-pumps-4492/performance-16477/fuel-system-16571/fuel-pumps---electric---universal-17799/22d5b8966e1f/precision-55-to-65-gph-electric-fuel-pump/e16135/5354887 I actually ordered a replacement Walbro fuel pump which I ordered in June but was back-ordered on Summit and didn't come until late August. I haven't gotten around to swapping it out yet, but from what I've found, this may be the closest match (pressure and flow rate) for a universal external pump when compared to the stock internal pump on the Legacy donor car. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPN-F30000271 That's about all I got for now... Next things on my list are mounting my ECU (putting it in the glove box... It's just kind of laying in the passenger floor board atm), get the AC done, and then get my quad headlight assembly installed and body work at some point...