Leaderboard

I followed the FSM diagnostic procedure. Tested the wiring for a short, none. Tested the resistance of that solenoid, should be about 13 ohms, and it reads about 3. I picked up new orings and a cover gasket from the dealership, and I'll remove the valve body tonight (I'll do the other test while it's out to test the short section of wiring that goes into the trans then). New solenoid is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. I'm hoping to drive it to work on Thursday, and her rental car has to go back on Friday.

Have you removed the CV shaft from the diff before trying to remove it from the hub centre? If not, do this first and it involves removing that big long bolt for the two lower control rods/arms to pull the whole knuckle assembly away from the diff for the driveshaft to pull out of the diff or slide off the stub axle. This should allow the shaft to slide out of the hub, then you can get to dealing with the knuckle and the bearings (best to remove from the vehicle and deal with it in a press). Cheers Bennie

I've had to replace several hubs and axles as the old one would not come out. PB Blaster, Heat, BFH. No luck, even after having the hub off the car I could not beat it out. So when I go to the junk yards in CO, the one thing I always check is to see if the axle move freely inside the hub spline. The long hub bolt can also rust inside the bushings making it almost impossible to get out.

The e brake is held on by a u clip on the back side where it goes into the bracket. Loosen all the interfering bolts and the 4 14mm that hold the hub on. Once all that is loose the hammer will knock it loose and it will basically fall off. You will find it extremely hard to press a new bearing on the car. If all this is too much pay someone to replace the whole spindle. O.