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Or they designed it that way on purpose...I'm not a fluid dynamics expert; but I imagine there are various effects created by having the inlet to the airbox smaller than the outlet to the TB...like creating a low pressure area in the airbox under sudden acceleration...either way, no engine is working at peak CFM often enough to make it have any kind of difference except at maybe the last few hundred RPM at redline while at WOT. Unless there is some terrible problem with the design (and I'd say that Subaru engineers understand much more about fluid dynamics and flow restrictions and how they work to create a torque curve than we do) then I wouldn't mess with it unless you're doing major mods to the engine that would cause it to need more fuel and air. Mostly what happens when people mess with their intake and exhaust without proven dyno tested setups is that you'll lose fuel economy (more air means more fuel to maintain the F/A ratio) and make your engine more peaky in it's power band. I wouldn't sacrifice low down power that's used every day in driving for a few hp at the peak of the power band that only gets used every once in a while personally, not even for a little more intake sound... I think what's happening here is that people are thinking these motors (that are tuned very well to get good usable power from them considering their size) will respond the same to mods on intake and exhaust as an older, heavily restricted v8 (or stock turbo setup) would. It's just not the case. These aren't poorly tuned and detuned 70's V8's with heavily restrictive exhausts and intakes to comply with tightening emissions standards...(or a tiny stock turbo setup) If you're looking for something with performance that responds to mods well, then buy a different car with a turbo...or spend the money to do a good quality turbo motor swap or something. With a stock 4cyl motor a legacy just isn't a performance car. You'll need to do much much more than a CAI to make it one. but if you're just looking for some "street cred" or whatever it's called these days, or some more sound and you aren't concerned with the loss of mileage and low end performance then have at it...

Hi! I AM done h6 swap in to my 98 Impreza gf. I just need some help with VSS wiring! Any ideas?

Importing stuff is always an option but as you said it's just the dollarydoos. Our import laws only let us bring in vehicles that are 25 years and older, so a 1997 is the newest vehicle that could be imported. A lot of mail carriers do that, in fact. I work with someone who is in a Japanese land cruiser. The gen 1 I have is sort of special because it was built for the USDM and has spent it's entire life here in the states delivering mail. I already have a lot of money sank into the legacy so it's sort of a sunk cost situation with me wanting to get it squared away. Gonna see if I can find out what the heck this rack is and get me some seals for it, if not importing a rack might be my only other option.

Interesting, so it sounds like a competent vehicle here in New England in the winter. A new vehicle isn't in my budget - but I like reading about the evolving technology of hybrid or electric only vehicles, It makes sense maintenance costs would be lower - no head gaskets or CVTs to worry about! Overall though, in many ways (not considering the computer intelligence) an EV is less complex than a conventionally powered vehicle. I would have assumed no coolant in an EV, but I guess it is necessary based on typical EV maintenance items you mentioned. Even a computer CPU has cooling fans. I've heard of liquid cooling in large data centers. Hopefully many other areas are moving toward renewable energy. I didn't see any interior photos in the ad I saw for the Solterra. IMO it's a good looking SUV. (is it an SUV?). Especially the way fuel prices are now, I can see how charging an EV at home will cost a lot less than a gasoline vehicle,

I'm doing more of a refresh than a rebuild on my 87 EA82 and sourcing parts from eBay, Rock Auto, etc. I'm buying seals and parts anywhere I can find them because one vendor won't have it all. Mine was a running engine but had low compression on one cylinder and found it was a blown head gasket on #3. It was down about 30 PSI during a standard compression test. I hate greasy, grimy engines so I pulled it completely out to clean it all up but I will not be splitting the case or doing a re-ring. I see no reason to go that deep when I had good oil pressure, compression and no smoke.

See subject line: 2006 Yeah, I've always found all that pre-torque bolt-spinning to be curious, since at the end of it the bolts are all more-or-less finger-tight. So why bother? I think it has to be one (or both) of two things: There may be some pre-compression of the gasket involved; that it gets all the bolts to a "baseline setting" from which they will all behave similarly (in terms of degrees of rotation, and thus evenness of gasket compression) during the actual final torquing steps.

Indeed, it's not an assembly, but can get all the dry tubes looks like i was simply looking in the wrong area.... found http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/en_s11/type_1/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/intake_manifold/illustration_5/ 18 years old is rather new in my book , certainly compared to my 1989 Vitara....

won't do anything unless you want more underhood sound/noise.

Stock air box and paper filter will move more air than your NA could ever need. What could benefit is making the intake hole into the air box larger, and scoop air from the front of the vehicle like later model cold air intakes do… how to achieve that on the older Gen1 is anyones guess atm - but I’m sure it’s been done before on an RS or other Gen1 turbo models that use the same air box Cheers Bennie

making sure you have a clean filter, and the air intake is clean and free of obstructions will do far more for you than any aftermarket crap will. little story.. we tried an aftermarket cone filter on our Dodge Ram - it started having all sorts of issues with idle, acceleration and was definitely noisier than the stock setup.. put the stock air intake back on, and all the issues went away.

There really isn't much point unless you've done some other mods that require more airflow. There are lots of aftermarket filters made to fit most car's stock intake boxes. That's what I'd do if I wanted to upgrade my filtration. Plus a CAI introduces other potential issues unless it has it's own "box" surrounding it...such as moisture, and more heat than the stock intake, etc. I'm not sure about on yours, but on my '95 it has a little snorkel under the hood that scoops in cold air from the hood gap and feeds it into the airbox. That's far colder than any air in the engine compartment.