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Overall it's fairly easy and similar to a NA. biggest thing I can say is be very careful of the air-fuel ratio sensor in the up pipe. At least on the legacy's it's stupidly close to the frame rail. Either remove it before the engine pull, or be very careful removing the engine. Easily can damage it.

Chevy luv struts and reclocking the torsion bar in the rear (also have to cut off a bit of the bump stop) and 2nd gen 2wd struts in the front with 2nd gen springs and cutting about a half coil should get you there. You probably won't even have to cut springs with a 15" rim. I'm on chevy luv struts 14" pugs with 2nd gen 2wd struts and 2nd gen brat springs (didn't cut springs). Lake side by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr Had 15x6 trailer rims on the back for a little while I was building it and needed to roll the fenders. Primed by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr

Either the pump is bad or you have some suspension problems perhaps. Strut mounts, etc. GD

I think maybe the imprezza had a power light... The clunking I would check your tranny and motor mounts. The steering, definitely check and tighten the belt.

so far so good. The axle I have them on is on the side where the exhaust is. The boot on the transmission end looks like it is sweating oil or something a little, but the outer one is dry, like I would expect. I'll have to wipe it off, and see if it comes back...

Doesn't hurt to ask. But I doubt it will work. Banks.... banks are where you get money. GD

Probably wait for the Mechs to show up, as I've not done anything newer than an '04 XT. But since it's 'stil an EJ-series' it should (?) just come out like you see 'em on ebay. Remove the front accessory belts, and set the power steering and AC stuff off to the sides - Still attached to their hoses. Remove the Downpipe>Turbo and Up Pipe if necessary to get to the pass. side bolts....wait...does the '10 FXT have the turbo down underneath like the Legacy GT?? Like here: http://efilogics.com/customer/4 - Subaru Customers/AlexM_2010LGT/AlexM_2010LGT_10.JPG Still stock turbo? Maybe time to rebuild / replace that too.

Keep anything out of the turbo . Use tape over open holes , cap or plug the oil lines. Otherwise its just an EJ 2.5. Why do you need to cut the a/c belt ? If its a tight one just remove the adjuster assembly .

After you get your fueling issues corrected, IF you still have the shaking problem. When the car is fully warmed up and shaking , Do a compression test. Much easier than pulling a valve cover. (if you own or can borrow a compression tester) A tight valve will drop compression readings on that cylinder. If you find a low cylinder, that is the valve cover to remove and check valve adjustment. (Of course if one is tight you must check them all) If you find a tight one and your lucky the valve won't be burnt and your car will be back to 100% (for an 18 year old car)

The evap solenoid and the purge valve are two different parts, both part of the evap system .You found the solenoid its the likely reason for fuel filling issues. The purge valve is under the hood and if you can blow thru it , then that's your hard starting after fueling. As far as the shaking goes I doubt the evap system is involved at all.