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Update: the engine is installed and has been run momentarily. It works, pumps oil and actually sounds pretty good - Success! Work will now be shifting to the body and interior which is being held up while I wait for parts to figure out this heater core debacle. As requested, attached are some pics of the car currently.

Change the fluid. If you're doing a drain and refill - usually it takes like 3 of them. It's very common for this to alleviate initial signs of torque bind. If it's just recently gotten worse I think you have a good chance of getting out of this with a few drain/refills. Mismatched diff ratio might be worth checking but usually cause very notable issues and are just consistently bad until the issue is alleviate - i wouldn't expect it to be drivable for 3 years and only now getting worse. I would run FWD indefinitely without concern. I've done it and it's been done plenty of times and there's almost no real world feedback it causes issues - i've never seen or heard of it. What there are issues from is driving with torque bind - that definitely causes failure modes including sheared off drums inside the rear extension housing.

The rubber cover for the bell housing access hole has probably fallen in and is rubbing on the flex plate. GD

I am new to the Subaru Universe. Recently acquired '95 Legacy for $300 that needed some pulleys and belts. Easy DIY...totally worth it! Possible future owner of '92 SVX, this weekend...may get for less than $500.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=142795978874&_sacat=0

If the valves are bent get used heads and what GD just said. Most folks wouldn't split the block. If it was consuming oil before this then the value of new rings increases. Don't split the block.

Most subaru auto's have a thin metal cover under the lower bell housing access hole to the torque converter area. if that plate gets pushed or bent at all it'll rub the TC teeth and can make noise. as intermittent as yours sounds it doesn't sound like this is likely but it's an easy check. 1. Fluid level is all good? 2. No check engine light? 3. Is the AT light blinking 16 times at start up? TC's are hard to diagnose in my opinion - they don't fail very often so not many Subaru people are familiar with it. what we need is some of the Subaru shop specialists like GD or Gloyale to comment on how they diagnose failed TC's. They happen ocassionally and surely a subaru specific shop has seen it numerous times. completely ignore everything you saw or heard about "greasing the rear seal" - that makes absolutely no sense at all. Subaru's are sealed systems and there's no way greasing a seal could alleviate anything in regards to your issue.

I think I would start with a new coolant temp sensor.

Yeah, we are just going to have to get more creative to keep these old ones running as time goes by.

You might have better luck in the newer forum, since what you are dealing with is an EJ engine problem. It probably has little to do with the body it is installed in. Outside of checking all the wiring involved with fuel and the throttle body, I can't say much else. I've never had an EJ.

Rings (no honing), 10mm oil pump, new gaskets and timing. Run it. GD

Parker, From your explanation I suspect you may have a broken wire inside the rubber gaiter at the driver's door hinge area. Pull the rubber gaiter from the door and slide it towards the car body and check each of the wires for a break. Then slide the gaiter back into place and pull the other end from the body and check that half of the wire bundle. If that doesn't show up the issue, pull the driver's inner door panel and peal back the plastic weather shield. Find the connector on the door lock actuator and unplug it. Then with the ignition turned on, check to see if you get power at the connector when you press the door lock switch. If there is power then the actuator needs replacing. If no power, check the switch to see if there is power to the switch. That will trace things to tell if the problem is before the switch, after the switch, and if the actuator is good or bad. I have taken lock actuators apart that didn't work and fixed them myself. The most common issue being dirty brushes on the tiny motor. A quick cleaning and they were back in business. Zero dollars, and just my time. Good Luck!

Hi all. Bought a 1992 SVX, Pearl White in 1992. LOVED that car. Sold it in 1996 and have regretted it for the past 22 years. I was driving down a Vermont country road and BAM! There she was! No, not my actual love, but a beautiful 1992 Pearl White SVX with 100,000 miles, one owner. Paid $4,800 and am just as in love as I was 26 years ago! Parts are so hard to find, but it's a labor of love! Mark