Leaderboard

Update, got my shop gauge connected today. I used the port with the square nut, and my gauge threaded right in, no adapter needed. Surprise, surprise (no one is surprised) the dash gauge is way off. At cold idle I’m reading around 55, and up to 70 with a throttle blip. After everything warms up and the dash gauge goes to 0, I’m still showing around 20. Again, with a blip of the throttle it jumps back up to 50. So now I feel a lot better, and my paranoia is satiated for the moment. I plan to mount a nice/working gauge on the inside eventually, but for now all is well.

Update: I spent some time cleaning the used engine up, then getting it ready to replace top end gaskets. Looked like the front main seal was leaking, so I replaced it, and am debating a new oil pump seal kit because I can’t tell if it was leaking too. Not sure where to source that, any tips would be appreciated. I ended up with a mix of oem and Fel-Pro gaskets for everything else, and am grateful for all the advice I’ve found digging through these threads. Sourcing the recommended parts has been pretty easy- In addition to the gasket set, I have new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, a new fuel filter, and an auxiliary wiring harness for future accessories. Now that I’m thinking about it, I should probably look over all the hoses and clamps and get replacements for any iffy ones ordered. The only real trouble I have run into came in the form of an exhaust bolt broken off in a cylinder head, but I used an ez-out and freed it without doing any damage. Aside from that little side quest, everything has come apart, cleaned up, and has gone back together nicely so far. I’ll make valve rail spacers in the morning so I can torque the heads on, then get the intake manifold and carb back on tomorrow after work. Hopefully I can get the rest of the out-of-the-car assembly done and my get harness wired up this weekend. That leaves next week to clean & prep the engine bay and bolt the motor back in it. So maybe two more weekends and my little GL will be whole again, then another couple weeks hooking up wires/hoses and getting it running right, and dinking around with any little basics it needs to drive around town for shakedown. I think I’m at the stage now where the list starts getting shorter, so that’s nice...

Howdy, HEADS UP on adjusting the Subie accessory belts - P/S, Alt, AC - as they have another bolt that 'locks' them in place - common to break the actual adjuster bolt if the lock bolt is not loosened.

1) needs new front struts. The old units are worn out and make that clunking sound over small ripples and bumps in the road. Replace the struts, get a wheel alignment and you'll be sorted. 2) inspect the AC belt for cracks etc and replace if necessary or just tension the belt up to reduce the initial slip that's causing the screeching. 3) replace the knock sensor and reset the ECU either by the battery dance (disconnect the battery for at least half an hour), then warm the engine up without touching the throttle for five or so minutes. Then go for a drive. You may find that the oxygen sensor will need replacing too. That should solve your issues. I reckon they're pretty small overall. Cheers Bennie

Maybe post up a photo of whole inlet manifold to jog memories. Someone may have one. I can think of two different manifolds - flat and spider. There were two versions of the flat for turbo in the vacuum hard lines and maybe throttle body too..but if you strip and swap. Has anyone ever had a broken bolt stud remover actually work? I throw mine away now when they turn up so not to tempt me I have replaced some boltwith stainless. Others get anti sieze grease everywhere. Those manifold to head bolts are the worst for rusting up in no thread area

Weld a nut to the end of the broken bolt. Need a skilled welder. The heat will also loosen it up. Carefully unscrew as soon as it is not glowing. Other tip, for future repairs - before attempting to remove any of these bolts that have never been removed, get the engine up to normal operating temperature. Then carefully begin to work on the bolts involved. Makes a huge difference in getting them out successfully without snapping them.

I've bought 3 rebuilt compressors from this outfit for 3 different auto brands all with good results. They may have what you need. Either Matsushita or Hitachi, they have a lot of cores. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Compressor-1988-1989-Subaru-Dl-Gl-Gl10-1-8l-Used-57496-/381569928173?vxp=mtr&hash=item58d7570bed https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Compressor-1988-1989-Subaru-GL-DL-GL10-1-8L-1year-Warranty-R57496-/380351355955?vxp=mtr&hash=item588eb51c33 https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Compressor-Subaru-Brat-DL-GL-GL-10-Loyale-1-year-Warranty-R57453-/380476766163?vxp=mtr&hash=item58962eb7d3

Solved it. Turns out my pinout on the ecu plug did not match the ecu. Had to repin the plug. Now she is running strong and steady.

Here is my BRAT.