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If you found evidence of the core leaking, that would do it. Yes, pulling the dash is "fun". I had to do one to clean out mice nest destruction.

I used some from a hardware store. Just went after whatever type looked the most long life / weather extreme. Try to get close on the width and thickness.

Pretty sure they just touch. The clamps had foam on them iirc.

Got the heads, cams, and valve covers on, nothing too unusual there. I think you could remove the heads without removing the cams but it sounds like they always have to be milled, so the cams and caps should be removed. Torque procedure is pretty complicated as usual. One thing I can't figure out is why there is a top and bottom weep hole for the water pump. I'm not sure how much of this crap came in the top, but I sealed that hole with silicone before putting this cover back on the engine. All that mud made it difficult to remove the water pump. I did get a new water pump while it's all apart, but at $105 from the dealer it's probably not necessary to replace, they seem to last forever. There are two big orings for the water pump though and I would definitely recommend replacing those. The big one was rock hard as you can see. Engine ready for the inner/rear cover to go on. Inner/rear cover installed. One thing they did that is fantastic is casting the torque pattern in the cover next to the bolts. I already see why most people recommend just buying a $700 low mileage Japanese engine. I've spent that much in parts and machining on this one. I am replacing a lot of hoses and gaskets to be safe that might need replacement on a 15 year old engine regardless of mileage though.

That would be nice to verify which can be cloned. I’ve never pulled the trigger on trying that. They basically copy an existing key, making it a duplicate key and digital signature so it will work without actually reprogramming. I got cheap eBay keys to work so far. I Google the part numbers, check reviews, avoid ones with little info and which look terribly generic. I’ll get OEM looking ones if available (which’s have no merit, i don’t know) To me it’s helpfuk to get extra keys and remotes now, program it all and never think about it again even if you loose another key. .

Have the heater core out and it's definitely leaking. Waiting on the new one to arrive. Parts store had to get it via fedex. Pulling the dash was a fun adventure. Hopefully this will fix the issue.

this... A bad battery can kill an alternator by making it work more to try to recharge it... A bad alternator can kill a battery by a)undercharging, leaving the battery to make up the difference while the car is running and thereby discharging it, or b) overcharging and cooking away the acid, causing damage to the plates... Take the car to your local auto parts store... most will run a free charging system diagnostic for you if you ask. the system will be checked with the car off, and with it running at idle, and they will (should) ask you bring the rpms up to check it at "driving" speed.. also with all accessories off, and again with accessories on (lights, radio, heat, etc).

Thanks for the help. I let some water out of the bleed screw on the top of the radiator, and tightened it back down. That seems to have fixed it, Something caught in the o=ring seal or something.