edrach

If it's melted around one wire that's your bad connection; wire around it for a decent connection and one more of your problems will be solved. Doesn't matter where it goes until you fix the bad connection.

Get a smaller diameter drift tool to go INSIDE the roll pin and first knock out the drill bit. Then try to remove the roll pin the normal way. I always use a craftsman 42885 drift tool (I believe that's 3/16"). Soak the roll pin and DOJ with PB Blaster or similar and it should come out.

I personally prefer the quads since conversions are less expensive (i.e. actually available....I know of no aftermarket replacement for the composite headlamps) and throw much better light than the composites.

Wow, I sell complete rear disk brake conversions from the pull a part yard for $100 plus shipping. Weight is 45 lbs for a set; it might be worth it to ship a few sets to OZ!

EA82 models with the GL designation came with the composite headlamps as well as most options. The less expensive DL model came with quad headlamps, cheaper interior finish, and no tach I believe. Looks like Mick beat me to it (I'm too wordy). But if you look at the expanded pic of the rear of the wagon on the link you posted, you'll see the subaru DL badging.

Local pull a part price for wagon wheels here in Seattle is $12.50 plus 9% tax for tire and rim together. They won't sell them separately here. Needless to say I only buy them with good rubber unless I really want/need the rims. Alloys are more expensive.

I had a set of the earlier EA81 wagon wheels sandblasted and powder coated about 7 years ago. It cost a small fortune at the time (I didn't know any better), but they still look good after 7 years of use. Just as an aside, check your wagon wheels for "trueness" (sorry, I don't have a better word for it). When I first got into Subarus I started to collect the EA82 wagon wheels (they look the same but there is a minor difference) and I had a collection of about a dozen. I also noticed that I had a slight front end shimmy no matter how much I had the wheels balanced. The shimmy went away the first time I mounted alloy wheels. After that I took my 12 wheels down to the local tire place and had them checked; I only had 4 good ones out of the twelve! I kept those 4 and trashed the other 8. The point is if you're going to sandblast (glass beading is better) and powdercoat, do it with wheels that are true and won't give you any grief.

From Erik on the nasioc board: Rally-x Sunday Aug 6th, Straddleline ORV park! Tentative schedule for the rally-x on Sunday: 8am tech inspection 9am First Car Out Run groups TBA based on attendance. I believe the cost is $30. Come out and support the PRG Rally-x series! The more people we can get out to the events this year, the greater the chances of a WA rally-x series next year. The organizers are hoping there is enough interest locally to support a full WA rally-x series next year.

Yea, having grown up in northern NJ, it shook me up the first time I heard it. And the Washington Brooklyn is a town of maybe 12 farmers and their families, so most Washington folk don't know where it is either. It is certainly in the "boonies."

Temp sensor is a common failure item on the early EJ22s. Turns out there are two of them; one reports to the temp guage and that's okay. The other reports to the ECU and apparently sets the fuel mixture. Code 35 if I remember correctly. It is under the Idle Air Control assembly and has a brown connector with two wires coming out of it. Having replaced two of them in the last year I can tell you it is a pain to unplug and remove/replace. But it's do-able; just needs patience and perserverance and less than 30 minutes. Oddly enough, when I replaced mine the other 4 codes it was throwing went away also. You might try Legacy777 on the Legacy Central board (and our USMB); he's the resident expert on early EJ's.

Only time that happens is when the splines are rusted; or someone is thinking about EA81/82 axles. EJ axles come right out.

Early XTs had 55A alternators I believe. With the advent of the EA82 engine stock output went to 60A. 60A should be more than sufficient for your car.

If you add a cooler for the transmission, install a temp guage for it also. If you're concerned about the tranny you might as well have an indication that you got your money's worth.

145 ft-lbs; same as the older cars. More works ok also.

Hydraulic engine valve covers have 5 sides; solid lifter valve covers have 4 (rectangular). Call Jason in parts at what used to be Auburn Subaru for the gasket set; toll free # is 1-866-528-5282. (

You can post anytime you want Pat; I did not take any offense from your comments....just trying to clarify my rationale. Try and get some sleep Pat:) .

Sorry, Pat, but I have had similar electrical gremlins in the past and found the solution to be a faulty connector from the ignition switch to the main power; I've replaced no fewer than three of those assemblies as well as wired around the culprit connection on a fourth. It comes from having three brats and 5 mid '80's wagons come through my family and stewardship. I won't say that the connector IS the problem, but I've seen it so often that I'd bet a beer on it....also, it's a 5 minute check to see if that's it and a 5 minute replacement if it is. I'm basically lazy and look for the easiest and simplest solutions first before I get into the complex time consuming stuff. The liklihood of having 5 different causes for 5 different electrical gremlims is pretty remote unless we're dealing with a grounding issue.

The solution is here in your statement. Get a replacement ignition switch and harness. I'm willing to bet if you check the connector from the ignition switch you'll find a brown spot on the plastic connector indicating a poor connection to power (bad connection gets hot and plastic turns brown). I've seen this on a number of the older '80's cars. In most cases, replacing the harness has fixed it; in one stubborn case, I butt-spliced #10 wire around the connector on the main power wire. If the part is too expensive, check the local Pull a Part yards for a "good" switch/harness assembly (good means no brown spot).

I'll defer to Dr. RX on this method; he's done more of these than I have.

I get around 23/24 around town and 27/28 highway with my '94 Impreza with the EJ18 engine and 5 speed manual. Much better than my '91 Legacy which gets 20/21 and 24/25 also with the 5 speed manual. I'm convinced the automatic costs you at least 15% in decreased gas mileage. Both cars are AWD. FWD cars should get more.

Odd, it worked for me this time, first time. Cool pix; did the rain happen in the middle of the event or have you got a madman running a water truck? Looks like a great venue. I'd love to get up there, visit friends, and rallycross. I'm looking at the September date and hoping a local event doesn't fall on the same weekend. Thanks for posting the pix.

Nothing else is needed to do to the pivot unless it's badly worn. When re-assembling, do not tighten the bolt while the suspension is off the ground. Replace the nut and bolt and leave it loose. Drop the car off the jackstands and with the weight of the car on the suspension, tighten the pivot bolt.

I personally like to remove the bolt from the A-arm and separate it from the engine crossmember. I've never needed to remove the swaybar mount or loosen the strut assembly. A steady tug on the wheel hub is usually enough to slide the DOJ off the stub axle once the roll pin is knocked out.

Look closely at the axle where the roll pin is; one side of the hole is bevelled slightly and the other is not. Punch the pin out from the unbevelled side; and punch it back in from the bevelled side. Go to Sears and get a Craftsman #42885 WF punch; it's just the right size. Make sure the axle nut is loosened before you jack up the wheel. Also, you don't need hammer to knock out the axle from the wheel hub since the EJ models are splined and slide out easily compared to the older EA models. When re-installing the new axle, remember that the DOJ can go in two ways, 180 degrees out; one way is correct the other will leave you 1/2 tooth off and you'll not be able to get the roll pin back into the hole. Look closely at the inside of the bevelled hole to check whether there's a spline tooth or notch centered over the hole and match it with the stub axle on the transmission and you should be okay. Or, install the DOJ and check if the holes line up; if not, remove and rotate 1/2 turn and re-install. Good luck with this. Hint: if you have a pull a part type wrecking yard, find a Legacy or Impreza and "practice" removing an axle. I like to make all my mistakes on a wreck and not on my own car; I've learned more at PAP than in my own garage about working on my cars. Oh, DOJ is the inner joint of the axle as opposed to the CVJ which is the outer joint. Sorry, if you already know this, I'm just trying to cover all bases.

Sorry link doesn't work for me.