edrach

I've got to say that the Bothell police may have more time to investigate a car theft. I watched their investigations officer spend an hour on my car dusting for prints and collecting possible evidence when my wife's Impreza was recovered. But then again, Bothell only has about a dozen car thefts a day; also, ours was obviously not a joy-rider......the bolt cutters found in the back seat were likely used in a burglary in our neighborhood two weeks earlier.

And from the sounds of it with less apparent damage. Good to hear Matt. My oldest son gave my wife a burgler alarm with installation from Magnolia; I used to poo-poo that but it's nice to have; also when we park our cars in the driveway, I try to let my wife park me in. On the other hand, who'd steal a box stock non-turbo '91 Legacy? I'm really more worried about my Brats. Which reminds me, I've GOT to clear out the garage and park at least one of them inside.

Unless your later car is different than my '91 EJ22, there are two temp sensors on the motor. One feeds temp information to the ECU and I suspect turns on the fan when necessary; the 2nd one feeds your temperature guage to display coolent temp.

EA81s (i.e. 1.8 L) from 1981 on in the hatches and brats. The wagons and sedans switched to EA82 motors in 1985. The cut corner on the valve cover of an EA81 indicates a hydraulic lifter engine; rectangular cover indicates solid lifters. You can tell whether EA71 or EA81 by checking the casting near the front, top, center of the motor.

Aside from the yard in Tacoma, there's another on Hwy 99 in Lynnwood (just north of 188th) and one in Olympia across from the Airport (off exit 101).

A major difference with the EA81 manual transmission motor is the clutch and flywheel. 2WD clutch has a 7-7/8" diameter disk; 4WD is 8-7/8" diameter disk. Not a problem, just switch flywheels and clutch as needed. Carb and vacuum lines might need some finagling, but it's not a major difference.

Matt, so sorry for that.

Yes

I'll bring some!

A neighbor has a '90 legacy with automatic transmission and the tranny is shot (metal shavings in the front diff oil). Anyway, would the 4 speed automatic out of a '98 Impreza work? Would it just be a bolt in, or will special modifications be needed? Will the old ECU get confused with a 4 speed auto rather than the 3 speed? Worst case, can he use the center diff in his old 3 speed? Are the front ratios the same or will he also need to swap in the rear diff to match?

Try WJM on the Board; he can get you polypropalene bushings. Good luck getting the old bushings out.

Shawnsbrat is correct; either will work and hook up the same to the coil. I personally like the Hitachi better; I haven't had too much trouble with the Hitachi and since I don't want to double my inventory of used parts I only use Hitachis. I can't make a comparison on reliability.

NipponDenso distributer has what looks like two little square boxes for the igniter module. Hitachi distributer has an ignition module the looks like a deformed horseshoe. From your description, I'd say you had the ND type. 1982 had breakerless ignitions on the Brat and early wagons.

Where is your timing set? Whose gas are you using.

Sounds like you have the answer in the previous post. Considering the work you had done recently, you might find that the vehicle speed sensor is unplugged or not properly secured. Considering your location in Vancouver, you ought to consider SIR (richierich) in Portland. I'd trust his shop over any dealer anytime.

If you find a shop that REALLY knows your engine you might save a bit of money there. However, with ccrinc you get a warranty and the assurance that you have someone who KNOWS our engines. Judging from your earlier posts there may be an internal problem that might not show up in a standard rebuild. I'd go with the ccrinc engine if it were my choice and I wanted to spend that much (you're close to looking for a replacement car in my humble opinion). Pulling and installing your own engine is quite easy if you have a friend and engine hoist. Good luck with it.

Pulleys should be changed if they feel bad once you have it apart. Tensioner can be reset if you have a very sturdy vise. You could get a used tensioner at the local pull a part yard and re-set it yourself and re-use it (they don't wear out).

Old story...pay me now or pay me later. Best independent shop in the area is Smart Service. http://www.smart-service.com/

I would suggest buying OEM parts only for that repair (www.1stsubaruparts.com is a good source for parts). Also, figure that with the mileage you have that it would likely be a good time to replace the water pump; the labor is the same and it's not likely to last until the next time you do the belt. It's also likely that one or more idlers will need replacement. The $40 estimate is for the timing belt and nothing else I suspect. Good luck with it.

Finally out and posted at http://www.scca.org/_FileLibrary/File/2006RallyCrossRules.pdf

A tentative schedule for the 2006 season showed up on ORG's website recently. First event is on March 26 at the Hillsboro site in conjunction with another Paul Eklund RallyX school. The rest of the year's schedule is: May 7 June 11 July 2 July 16 Aug 20 Sept 17 Oct 8 Check the ORG website for updates, changes, and locations. http://www.oregonrally.com/ http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/marchschool.pdf

Also consider pulling the engine rather than the tranny. Using an engine hoist and working from the top is usually easier than using a transmission jack and working from the bottem. Check prices online (two local dealers sell online at a discount, do a search for them) and price them over the 'phone NAPA, Schucks, B&B, and Bow-Wow (if you call Bow-wow in Lynnwood, ask for Chris...he's USMB friendly). Good luck with the repair.

I didn't notice any decrease with them on my Legacy wagon, but they're 15s and not 16s. Maybe you're driving a bit more agressively.:burnout:Also, does your gas carry 10% ethanol for the winter season? That drags my gas mileage down about 10%.

I'll second the Kuhmo. They also have a rally tread that might work for you; certainly more robust than most tires.

I'm up for a weekend event too. Sunday would work for me and Tex could get a look at my weber setup if he likes. Tonight is out for me; I have another comitment.