edrach

The heavy wire connector is the one which should output the voltage to the battery.

I guess you were fortunate, but I wouldn't take my car there if my life depended on it.

Check the voltage as it comes out of the alternator; if it's above 14VDC there and only 12V at the battery you likely have a bad battery cable. My suspicion is the alternator is bad even though it tested good outside of the car.

No Brainer, Smart Service.

Funny, but I use CR as a guide for things I know nothing about. For things I think I know something about, I've found I often disagree with them. Tires is one of the things I disagree with them. My personal feelings regarding the snow tire tests is that in my past life when running winter rallies, I found that those drivers who were not sponsored/supported by a tire company, the tire of choice was always a Hakki.....and if the Finns can't make a good snow tire, no one can. They certainly have an incentive with with their weather.

One thing not mentioned by others; the turbo engines run quite hot under the hood and the rubber hoses tend to fail. If you plan on keeping the car and doing a full rebuild, order all the hoses from Subaru (www.1stsubaruparts.com is a good source of OEM parts at 35% off list price; call them and ask for Jason in parts....he's most helpful). Welcome to the Board. The turbo is a fun car to drive even without increased boost, but watch out for overheating since it will kill you head gaskets.

That model is non-interference. No worries; I've had the belts break twice on me while at highway speeds (I owned the car for over 150K miles) with no internal damage.

Low airflow.....maybe a faulty blower. Or if you live out in the country, it's not unheard of if a mouse hasn't build a nest in the air tunnels after the blower. Especially, if you leave crumbs of food in the car on a regular basis like I do.

Actually, it'll come back nicer than it left. I saw it today at the alignment shop and the paint job is just fine. The front end work is done and it just needs tires for the alloy wheels that I pulled out of my "stash". Monday it goes back to the body shop for an interior detailing. We should have it back by Wednesday or Thursday. Thank goodness for 0 deductible comprehensive coverage.

I'm second owner of my '91 Legacy wagon and the previous owner was anal about service and record keeping (he even logged each and every fill-up with gas!!). Anyway, my wagon is still on the original clutch. It started slipping about 2k miles ago but is still working acceptably at 157K miles. I'm planning on replacing it this weekend.

Alternators put out less volts at idle; so that's normal. However, it can also be an indication that the alternator is not charging the battery enough or the battery is not taking a full charge. Most autoparts stores will offer a free check of your car's electrics. Of course they are biased to sell you the parts, but a check at two or three shops should allow you to decide what you need.

As to the economy, WA state claims to be "in good shape". WA is like two states really, the populous western corridor from Bellingham south to Vancouver and the sparsley settled area east of the Cascade mountains. Rents around Seattle seem high to me but there are areas where it's more reasonable. Check the local chambers of commerce for more detailed information.

I have 5 and they all are running.

Regarding my 50K WRs: I got 50K out of them and they are still usable, but getting replaced this month. I only had four and only rotated front to rear about every 5K. I never had need for the spare and would have used the undersize spare that came with the car if I needed it.

I had a set of the 14" WRs on my Legacy and I'm over 50K miles on them but they are in dire need of replacement now. I've been fond of them. You might check the Nokian website for alternate dealers in your area; around here Tire Factory is the authorized distributor and Discount doesn't handle them as far as I know. I bought this set of WRs in Canada since they were just across the border and much cheaper. Maybe you can do the same in Mexico. Another thought...why are you going with 225 width; that's overly wide for the rims as well as narrower is better with a snow tire?

Sounds like a DOJ problem (okay when coasting, vibration (or worse) when accelerating). Usually okay to run on a noisy axle for quite a while. Any torn boots yet. If you have a "lifetime" warranty on the axle, it will go away once the boot is torn so get it off before that happens. Among rebuilt axles, I've had the best success with www.cvaxles.com.

The car didn't look too bad but the auto body repair/repaint is going to be around $2500. As to any remnants/residue, I will have the interior detailed. I might take it to the local police and have their drug doggie take a whiff before I try to go to Canada with it. Thanks for the suggestion. I should have the car back by the middle of the week.

I bought my first '84 Brat four years ago with less on it than yours but in similar condition for $1300 and was glad to get it. I just bought a second pristine '84 Brat in excellent condition and absolutely rust free for $2500. If you have this guy down to $800, you'd be foolish not to jump on it for $800 IMHO. There are people in the northeast who would kill for the buy you're getting. Best of luck with it.

Turbo axles have 25 splines and non-turbo 23. A turbo axle on a non-turbo transmission will shear the roll pin every time. Looks like your dealer sold you the wrong axles; not an unusual mistake with some rebuilt axles. I've had very bad luck with ARI rebuilds in the past. I'd suggest you get your axles from ShawnW or www.cvaxles.com. Also, Pull a Part has them very inexpensively is you inspect the donor axle carefully. For now take that axle back to the shop you bought it. Good luck getting the right size roll pin (dealer item); I have a few in my hardware bin if you want a pair (I'm in Bothell); drop me a PM for a 'phone #.

So what fixed the problem?

Tranny mounts are plentiful at the local Pull a Part yard. Probably cost you less than $5 and 30 minutes of your time.

Right and left side are identical, but I'd suspect that they wear differently. If you're replacing a left side, a left one would match; but a right side would have less wear. In either event, I've never found it made much difference. I look for a high mileage car which likely had axles replaced already; check for labels from a re-man still present to indicate age; lastly, and most importantly, check the rubber boots for micro cracks (no good) and thickness (the thicker the better). The better rebuilders use a thicker rubber boot that will last longer. Also see that the rubber is still flexible and smooth (good). Check for obvious play in both joints and avoid that. Good part is that PAP warrantees the axles for 30 days so if you get a back one you can return it for exhange for your money back (save your receipt and make sure it is marked before you leave). Once you decide the axle is bad, you can order a new rebuild if you like and return the "donor" axle from PAP (I've never done that since I've always managed to pick good axles). Also, make sure that you get the proper version EA81 versus EA82 cars; also FWD and 4WD drive axles are slightly different but I've found it doesn't make much difference in actual use on the EA81 cars.

I'm with everyone here who thinks axle; except it's not the CV joint but the DOJ (inboard) joint. Typical of DOJ failure to shake badly under load and run okay as soon as you let off on the gas. Especially if the torn boot is the inboard joint, replace the axle. You can get pretty good ones cheap at the local PAP yard if you carefully inspect the axle you expect to pull. Plus it gives you practice in pulling the axle on your car.

Correction to my previous posts; it's the ECS light that comes on after about 6 min. of running. I think it's related to the EGR.

Welcome to the Board. Your dealer is wrong; either you're leaving your foot on the accelerator pedal when shifting or the return springs on the throttle body aren't doing their job; somehow the symptoms you describe are indicative of a major problem with the throttle control. It's also a significant safety issue. Go back to the dealer and insist that one of the mechanics drive the car with you and duplicate the problem. If they can't duplicate the problem, insist on getting your complaint in writing so you and they have a written record since this will become a warranty issue. In case it becomes a liability issue (heaven forbid) and you have an accident, you really need some proof that you tried to get this fixed.