edrach

I'm with Roobaflu....large side cutters, and a screw-driver to use as a fulcrum. Pops those puppies right out. I was wondering who beat me to the free tires. I was looking for a set of free wheels.

.05" is almost 1/16" and I would consider that too much; a good bushing will not wiggle at all. I know there's no real spec but this is a personal opinion.

This info should go right into the USMB Repair Manual.

I'm still totally confused about classes this year. I think the first event will be interesting because of confusion over classes. If I remember correctly, Jason posted last year that Kuhmo actually made a rally tire. It might be a better investment than just a snow tire.

Speaking of new rules, they are posted elsewhere (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31086), but you should try to read them. I'm not quite sure I understand them. But there is also a recent comment from Scott that I pass along for those that are interested: I'm posting this so you all (maybe it's just Ed? LOL! ) can review and give me your opinions on things... As most of you know, the SCCA has Nationally and Officially completed its separation from Stage Rally and has shifted its focus in the Rally Department almost exclusively onto Rally Cross. The first thing they did was to establish a new set of RULES to govern their new concept and ideas about where they hope to take Rally Cross in this Country. Those rules have been met with mixed results and very gretly from Region to Region, Division to Division and even Nationally. Yet with the future and specific details of these new Rules still in some state of flux, our local events are upon us and the "show must go on". I have been charged with the task of creating and running NORPAC's first ever Divisional Championship Title Event. Just exactly HOW we do this has been a monumental effort in mixing the old with the new and bridging some of the gaps in the Divisional handling of Rally Cross rules. Take into consideration also the vast differences in the racing conditions and locations, it's pretty much impossible to build a "fair and balanced" system by which to compare, measure and award points to a Divisional Champion in whatever classes we can all agree on. So.... here's the plan. For better or worse. Each Division in NORPAC, that means Alaska, Washington, Oregon, W. Montana, Idaho, NW Nevada and N. California down to San Fransico... will run their Regional Events UNCHANGED from however they were and are running their events. People interested in competing for the DIVISIONAL Title MUST compete in the Regional Title as each of these Regional Championships will count as Qualifiers to the Divisional Championship event. After a set percentage of events, Class winners will be determined in whatever structure that region runs. Those Podium finishers, 1st through 3rd, will then be INVITED to participate in the Divisional Championship. That even will be help in or around October, possibly early November in Brooks, Oregon. Chosen because of it's mathematically central location to the whole of NORPAC. That event will be the culmination of the Series and will determine the Class Winners for the NORPAC Division. Now... the Class. The National Rules state that the Divisonal and National Titles are to follow the NEW rules. So, even if you won Group 2 Title in your Region, you may NOT take home a Group 2 Title for Division... you might actually take home the "Rally Street 2WD" Title instead. It is my intention to "overlay" the two structures also so that if you use the old classes, you can still find your place and earn your title as well. It's a compromise, I know, but the ONLY way to bring continutiy to the whole of NORPAC and create a Nationally Leading program and bring success to our Division. Now... NEXT year, things may be COMPLETELY different. It largely depends on the success that we and others show the Nation with our programs. If you feel strongly about a certain rule or procedure, demonstrating that benefit is the BEST way to get your message across at this point and help shape the future of Rally Cross. I can be reached at dkov@pacifier.com or at 360-518-3198 or HERE on this forum or at RallyCross@oregonrally.com for comments, concerns, thoughts or discussion. I strongly urge each and every one of you that read this note to pass it along to as many people as you cant. Get to your Rally Cross Directors and let them know about this, how you feel and that they should provide feedback as well. Thanks for your time and consideration. Scott Kovalik NORPAC SCCA Rally Cross Steward --------------------------------------------

Sexist has little to do with it, I had a similar argument with a tow operator.....and this guy was not 3 months on the job. I had requested a flat bed tow truck with triple AAA; guy showed up with a hook. He insisted that it was okay; I insisted it was not. His last comment was "his way or the highway." I suggested he take the highway and I called AAA again to request another tow company. As it turned out, the first guy's company tried to charge AAA for the tow; AAA tried to bill it to me also until I showed them the paperwork for two tows on the same day on the same car. Eventually, AAA refused to pay for the non-tow and I filed a complaint against the first tow operator. Bottem line was I wanted the car towed 45 miles one way and they wanted to keep their flat bed local where it could do four tows in the time it would take to do mine.

Send your disty or another to http://www.philbingroup.com/fhhistory.htm and have them rebuild it. They are quite reasonable in cost and would easily get rid of the bushing wear.

Generally people report what's wrong and very seldom report what is right. Often leads to a skewed viewpoint. Good news, especially repetitive good news can be quite boring.

I love my '91 Legacy wagon also. Bought it with 98K on the odometer 20 months ago and I have 142K on it now. Manual transmission has gotten quieter with age and car cruises effortlessly on the highway at whatever speed I wish to go. Other than adding my second set of sparkplugs recently and doing regular oil changes I have only needed minor checkups twice. Just bought a '97 Impreza wagon with 112K on it for my wife and it looks like it's going to be as much fun as the Legacy. I don't see any reason I shouldn't get 300K plus out of both of them (I sold my '86 GL wagon with 255K and after a re-seal and a used carb it was back on the road as someone else's daily driver).

Pug wheels are a straight bolt on. My youngest drove a while on 14" Pugs with his '83 wagon and my oldest had 15" pugs on his '82 Brat....both without lift or adapters of any sort.

I don't have the answer either, but you might post which car this is for. I'm ignorant on codes and not sure if codes transcend models/years.

I'm still partial to www.cvaxles.com (Ocala, FL). $55/axle plus refundable core charge plus shipping. Stay away from ARI.

More info: Hospitality Inn 10155 SW Capitol Highway Portland, OR 97219| Reviews | This Portland Oregon hotel profile is brought to you compliments of the HotelGuide Network. The Hospitality Inn is located in Portland, Oregon. Telephone:503-244-6684Reservations:866-613-9330Fax:503-244-8255 Website says rooms from $63; I've stayed there before and can usually get a room for $49....then again it's been awhile since I've been there last.

Wedding invitation says 5:30 PM at The Old Church, 1422 SW 11th Ave., Portland, OR. Mapquest is your friend. Jeanne and I will likely stay overnight at the Hospitality Inn which is about 6 miles away (we want to hit Costco and Fry's while we are down there).

On the old gen cars the key code is punched into the front passenger door lock (on the inside of course). I suspect this is the same for the newer cars; most dealers don't seem to write the key code in the owner's manual.

The problem you have is very common with the old locks. I just had a locksmith re-do mine with a brand new lock cylinder ($120 but worth it to me not to have to change all the locks). Best bet is to try to get a lock at a local PAP for your car and then have the locksmith re-key it to work with your existing keys. Still pretty pricey and taking a lock out of a car at PAP will tell you whether you want to do it again on your car. Plus if you break it, you haven't disabled your car; you just look for another donor car and be more careful next time. In a pinch, you can remove the ignition switch from the existing lock and use a screwdriver to start the car; not very secure but it'll work for the time being.

Jeanne and I will be there.

Neo, that is a fine Brat. Amazing that it's still intact in the NJ air. I grew up in Irvington, Union and lived in South Orange, Dover and Rockaway before I moved out of state. I still miss old friends from that area; especially my old rally buddies. Best of luck with the Brat; looks like she was fortunate to find someone who appreciates her.

I wouldn't attach the DOJ first since you can bung up the DOJ if you put too much force on it. Best suggestion I have is to remove the 4 studs on the hub and pull off the outer hub portion from the rotor; this will allow you to get in deeper into the hub and line up the spacer better. Good luck.

Regarding the power; it's certainly not a lot of power robbed from the engine or the alternator, but it takes energy to spin that little puppy around and it's got to come from somewhere. I wasn't trying to start a pissing contest here, just answering a query...."what's the difference?" As to the second part of the question, here's a pic from my Brat which has the single pole thermoswitch on the side of the radiator. The original is usually a skinny 18 guage wire or less. Even tho there's negligible current draw here, I would suggest replacing it with about a 14 guage or larger; they last longer. Okay, what did I do wrong? I uploaded the pic into my photo gallery and then attached it using the URL from the picture, but that gave me the stupid red X:banghead: Try this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=4663&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

Sometimes there is only one pole in which case, the radiator needs to be grounded properly. I don't know which models have which, but I've seen it both ways.

Thermoswitch, bad grounds, bad connection to the thermoswitch are the three primary causes. Electric fan is better because it only runs when needed and doesn't rob power from the engine when it's not needed.

I've pulled the oil pan on one of my cars; can't remember if it was EA81 or EA82; I think it was my '86 wagon. The point of this is that I didn't have to raise the engine. After removing the bolts (the ones above the cross member are a pain), I think I just had to rotate the pan 90 degrees to slip it out. Went back in the same way. I used some type of gasket gook to keep the new gasket in place. Check with Smart Service; I think they told me that's how to remove the oilpan. I'm a firm believer in getting another pan from Pull a Part, but you need to know they puncture the pan to drain the oil (don't ask me why) and then plug the hole with a rubber plug. So if you get an oil pan from them, know that you'll still have to weld a hole shut. Also, Pull a Part is a good place to test the technique for pulling the pan. Find out how to do it on another car before putting your car out of commission because of an unexpected delay.

The electric fan is always connected to +12V and turns on when the temperature switch in the radiator closes the circuit to ground. Often it stops working because the radiator itself is not grounded. Check to see that the little ground wire at the top of the radiator is still there and connected since that might be the cause of the failure. It also helps to insure that the temp switch is still connected to the cars wiring harness. I know this doesn't answer your question but it might resolve your problem.

Jumpy tach can also be a worn distributor shaft bushing. Pull the distributor cap and check for wobble on the shaft. Also check all the ignition wires and connections if you haven't already done so.