edrach

Front wheel bearing noise can often be caused by a loose castle nut on the axle. Check that it's tight before you go through the effort of replacing the front bearings.

Found this on the website tonight: Official policy/rules/clarifications for RallyCross are in the works. They will be posted to the website when they are available.

I believe Austin has done that in the Brat he's trying to sell.

This might sound dumb, but I have to ask. The two holes in the axle are different. One hole has a slight bevel on the outside and the other doesn't. Always drive the pin out from the un-bevelled side and when replacing the pin, drive it in from the bevelled hole. Trying to go the other way almost always fails.

Oops. Sorry. It's not quite as intuitive as I had hoped. Thanks again.

Thanks Brian. If I could figure this out, it has to be easy.

Disconnect the spark from the distributor first. You don't actually want the engine to start.

Sounds like something is basically wrong there. I've never had a car that would allow 2" of freeplay much less disengage so suddenly. If Schucks' rebuild shaved too much off the flywheel that would certainly account for your symptoms.

I've had a '91 Legacy wagon now for 7 months. I bought it with 98K from the 2nd owner. It just turned 114k this past week. I have had just minor problems with it: Passenger side door lock control--replaced it. Automatic antenna wasn't working when I got it--replaced it. Installed aftermarket radio to replace stock unit. Replaced tires with all season Hakkapollitta. Set of 14" alloys from qman. So far all I've needed to do has been to replace the oil and filter at regular intervals. Previous owner was meticulous in keeping up the routine maintenance and had the records to prove it so I know when the major services need to be done.

Really depends how the discussion and voting went last night. Unfortunately, I couldn't go and my only source had to leave before they actually voted on the classes.

Austin, why are you excluding the gals?

I don't understand why you're trying to put brushes into a distributor--alternator, but not distributor. There's an outfit in Portland, OR that will rebuild your distributor for about $35 (I think that's labor). Search the Board for Philbin.

Jason, why are you looking for bigger, wider tires? Bigger is not always better. On snow and ice, narrower tires are a significant advantage. I'm not an expert on tires for RallyCross but I'd look into what works best on your car and on the varied conditions that you might encounter. When I first started running with an older wagon, I found I got my best runs with a "normal" set of 175/70-13 Hakki's; then I found they weren't legal in Production and went to other tires. Ask around in the rally circles; try the two guys who seem to win consistently in Production with their Justys. I'm certainly not the expert here but I'm not convinced the wider is better theory applies here.

Besides upgrading the wiring and sockets, install relays to handle the extra current AND FUSES when you add high output lighting.

I'm thinking of getting help sorting, getting rid of, giving away old Sube stuff and computer stuff. Some of the better stuff I might like to get money for but most of it will be given away since I don't have the room for it at our new house (warning--I'm an unbelievable pack-rat). Looking at the first Saturday after the New Year (provided it's not New Year's Day or the day after). Woodinville, WA---most of you locals know where I live. I'm not firm on this yet, but I'd like to know who's interested. Pizza and Pop will be available.

Jumpy tach is generally due to wobble in the distributer shaft; unfortunately nothing to do with the alternator.

If you have the patience and a dremel tool you can do what my youngest son did with his '83 wagon. He took out the heater control panel and moved it down to where the radio console was (needed an extra long cable from another wreck to reach the extra distance on one side). This left plenty of room for an EA82 style radio mounting bezel. He'll finish as soon as he figures out the speaker wiring.

Did you say you already replaced both axles? Does the sound go away when you let off on the gas and come back when you step on it? If so, that's characteristic of the DOJ (inner joint) on the axle. I've had some that were so bad I thought the transmission was falling out of the car. A re-built axle cured it just fine. It wouldn't be the first time I've gotten a rebuilt axle with a bad DOJ.

PM sent. Good luck with your new computer. ---ed---

Smokes only when you hit the gas hard. Sounds like it pumps a bit too much gas when you hit the throttle. If there's an accelerator pump on your carb, adjust the delivery back a bit. General Disorder (sorry to heist this post): There's a green gen1 Brat up here in Bothell on my way to work. It's been there for quite a while; I'll see if the guy is interested in selling it. ---Ed---

Kendall LSD gear oil works just fine. I use the Redline 75-90W NS in the transmission for the same reason as 84SOOB (minimizes synchro crunch). Brian you've got to find a cheaper source for your Redline--I bought a case of the 75-90W NS for $8/qt. a while back.

I thought I might have gotten it from Tires Plus (now Big O Tires) if the Wintermaster is a Cooper tire. If not, then Les Schwab is a good bet.

My '84 Brat is the same as your wagon and I installed a set of 2-1/2" round speakers from Blaupunkt (got them at Frye's). I installed them when I replaced the entire dash (thanks for the help to Turbone). Miles is correct about the right side speaker, but I don't know how you could replace the left side without removing the entire dash. GD is correct about rewiring the speakers to eliminate the common ground wiring.

Not sure of the jets; I ran what it came with. Performance (i.e. low end torque is definitely up) altho it runs out of "poop" at about 5000 rpm (could be my engine--EA81 with over 180K miles on it). No fuel regulator since the fuel pump doesn't put out more than 3 psi when new and who knows what I have now. Top speed improved to about 95 for my Brat (was around 85 with the Hitachi) and cruising speed was easier to maintain with the Weber (also have the 5 speed d/r range transmission) and I'm running stock 13" wheels and tires. Gas mileage increased from 22 highway to 27 highway even with the more spirited driving. According to my emissions guru, I should have no problem passing WA state emissions as it runs now.

There's a dealer list at http://www.nokian.com. Or take a weekend in Canada and import them yourselves. The website claims the 1's and 10's are no longer available and have been replaced by the Q (studless winter tire) and NRW (all season studless) and WR (studdable). The Q's and NRW's are awesome. The site is a bit awkward to navigate, but be patient and you'll find what you're looking for.