edrach

I'm one of those who's done at least 4 of the rear disk swaps and never added/replaced a proportioning valve. I've never seen the need for one. However, there are some on the Board with more experience than I who insist it's needed for safety reasons. Listen to both sides and decide what you need to do. If someone can post a pic and a location, I'd be glad to try and pull one for you at our local pull a part yards. But I'm in the same boat as you are...I have no clue what it looks like or where in the car to find one.

Measure the voltage on low side and high side relative to ground--should be pretty close the same (around 13V). If low side is significantly lower there's a problem; mis-wire, faulty relay contact. The other possibility I can think of is that on high beam, BOTH filaments are lit; on low beam only one filament is lit.

I can't argue with that. Just so I know in the future, since it won't be the last time I might switch out transmissions, do you remember the transmission number?

Check it out! http://www.specialstage.com/forums/showthread.php?46542-RallyCross-in-Vancouver-WA-on-November-3rd

It's so nice to have people here who understand this stuff. I agree with wiring to the battery also; battery acts as a big capacitor to "clean" up what comes out of the alternator. Nice write up. I'm not so sure why the original diagram suggested wiring to the alternator. Maybe they wanted to eliminate the small voltage drop between the alternator and the battery to get the maximum light output. Makes no sense to me.

That's more than annoying. If the rain stops this weekend, I'll be installing mine. Looks straight forward, but you never know until it's in and working.

There seems to be some overlap in the years. For example, the production run for a '95 might start in Sept of '94 and the VIN plate will have the actual date of manufacture as 9/94, but the car is built to '95 specifications and is delivered as a '95 model. I've seen that discrepancy on the chart a few times, but the data for the final ratios from the chart have always matched what I found in the transmissions I've installed. I can't speak for the actual gear ratios for 1st through 5th since I've never had to look at that. But as long as the front diff and rear diff matched I didn't care.

I'm confused too. But there's no need to wire the control wires to both the driver and passenger side. You have both the high and low control on each socket; passenger side or driver's side, take your pick. Sadly that doesn't solve your problem. I'd suggest going back to Daniel Stern Lighting and get a proper wiring diagram for a ground switched system like you have.

I was lucky enough to find a 4.111 transmission out of a '95 WRX when a friend bought a Japanese front clip for the engine and sold me the transmission. It also had the advantage of being a close ratio box which served me well when my daily driver was taken to the rallycross course. Transmission was a TY752VB3FA (from a ’95 JDM WRX Impreza). Cost me a little in gas mileage and extra rpm at highway speeds, but I didn't care about that.

In my case, I wasn't even looking at the automatic transmission; just the manual 5 speed and found both ratio versions in the years I was looking for. Generally, the EJ18 engines had the 4.111 and the EJ22 had the 3.900. But there were exceptions to that rule too. I'm afraid we might be beating this topic to death. Suffice it say, check the chart to be sure; or if pulling a gearbox at the junkyard take the rear diff too.

I sometimes wonder if Fuji just randomly picked transmissions and rear diffs when assembling their cars. Having made the 3.900 to 4.111 swap once and now back again, I'm beginning to believe they do. When I was looking for a 3.900 transmission for the Impreza, Every year from '94 to '98 had both the 4.111 and 3.900 transmissions available for the Legacy and Impreza models. I'm not a true expert, but I've never found the chart to be inaccurate. Doesn't mean it couldn't be, but.......

What year hatch? Sounds like a bad alternator to me; you moved the parts around and still have the problem. Have you checked the voltage on the battery with a meter? Both at idle and around 3000 rpm; that'll tell you whether the alternator is putting out or not.

Update received today: We will be having a RallyCross on November 3rd in Vancouver, WA. Please note: This site is an old gravel pit - so there are lots of rocks of varying sizes, and it may be rough on your car or at least your tires. Registration and tech for all classes will be 9-10am. Competition runs will be approximately 10:30am to 5:00pm, with a quick lunch break around 1pm. All classes will run together, with one half running before the lunch break, and the other half running after the lunch break. The driveway for the site is at 18208 SE 1st, Vancouver, WA 98684. This is next to a winery, but please do not use the winery driveway. This will NOT be an ORG season championship points event - the 2012 championship is done. We may use this site for events next year, so I am hoping to get feedback on the site for planning purposes. Spread the word! Check OregonRally.com for the most up-to-date info. You can email me at rallycross@oregonrally.com.

It's a 4.111; from the transmission chart in the USRM:US Legacy Outback MY94 TY752VAAAA 3.545 2.111 1.448 1.088 0.780 N/A 3.416 1.000 4.111 Viscous (4kgf) Open Easier to see here: http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart

Sorry to hear that; bad choice of dates I guess. I would have liked to hear your Brat running since the service.

I promised in an earlier post that I'd document the assembled harness I got from Competition Limited. I'll post again later this weekend after I've installed it in my Impreza. Pics can be found at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=17

So far not on the 'site. I got an email from Rebecca via the ORG-l yahoo board. Still waiting for details. I too might be swapping in a new clutch on the 2002 Imp. We'll see what my kid finds when he drives it; I think 130K is about right for a new clutch that might have been abused.

Hey, there's wongleflute's for a quick lunch, then coffee and desert at Kaffeeklatsch, and I'd be glad to buy you a beer after that. Come on out; I haven't seen you around enough.

Considering that Washington has virtually NO rallycross program currently, ORG is not stepping on anyone's toes by moving across the river into Vancouver. I think one club blocking another's efforts is frankly counter-productive. The idea is to grow the sport and offer more events for competitors who chose to cross state lines is a good idea. The downside is when two clubs start using the same date, but that just requires proper scheduling.

Finally something I had experience with. I had swapped our '97 Impreza from 3.900 to 4.111 to get more "dig" off the line since it was my rallycross car along with daily driver. At highway speeds I was running about 500 rpm higher in 5th. Check the transmission info in the USRM to match the ratio along with the ratio in 5th to see how many rpm you will change in that gear. Oddly enough, we're changing the '97 back to 3.900 since it will become a DD for my sister in law and lower rpm in 5th and slightly better gas mileage is an issue for her.

Got an email yesterday, ORG is trying out a new venue in Vancouver, WA on Nov. 3. Watch specialstage or http://oregonrally.com/ for more information.

When I get my gold brat back from my son, I'll try to get you those dimensions. With luck, this weekend. If I remember correctly, one dimension is the width; if it weren't for the wheel wells, one could lay down a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood in the back; not sure how much would hang out the back since the gate has to be down.

It was an interesting project. The generic instructions that came with the swaybar suggested mounting it backwards. We never could figure out how to mount it until we turned it around (thanks to bluesoob who had a similar bar mounted on his Brat). I like Whiteline products, but this swaybar was originally manufactured by a competitor that Whiteline bought out. They weren't overly interested in researching or promoting the product. However, it was cool ordering it direct from Australia. With VoIP, it was only 4 cents per minute to call them direct. Once I figured out when I had to call when they were open, they were quite willing to talk and help me identify the swaybar I needed. They also shipped it via air! I received it within 6 days of placing order! And the shipping costs were minimal; quite a surprise.

Thanks, that's what I needed to know.

That's one job that I would leave to a professional shop. Either that or hit the junkyards until I found a hub with decent bearings and just replace the whole thing and hope for the best. By the way, which model are you talking about here?