joostvdw

Why aren't you still going with the fatty tires? They look awesome and so does the paintjob!

I happen to have a non feedback EA82T (no O2 sensor, closed loop all the time) and it seems to me, that if I were to introduce the Hydrogen gas BEFORE the MAF the ECU would automatically increase the amount of fuel injected and keep it stoich (or should I say, keep it on the fuel map, because this thing never knows if it's stoich or not) right? wrong? I'm going to read the pdf now edit: alright, so I did read the pdf and I realise I shouldn't add combustible gasses before the turbo still, I would like to see this work before attempting it. It sounds too good to be true, but please prove me wrong

ah too bad, worth a shot though

You wont have to swap in a speedo cable, it will be there already If it's any use to you, I swapped in a digidash in my XT and everything plugged right in. Just be sure to not just unplug the dash, but also take and swap the entire dash harnass (no, not the whole body harnass ) on the XT this is about 30cm of wires and 4 big plugs (brown, blue and black I think) This may or may not apply to your coupe, but worthwile to investigate.

the coupe is really looking good connie! also sounds like you've got a nice plan worked out on getting it in pristine condition again, great job! I can't really help you with the alt question, but maybe I can about the saggy rear. The rear has a torsion bar suspension and shocks, no springs. As far as I know under the back seat there is a big bolt you can turn in or out lowering or raising the rear, you should be able to find this in the FSM. This should level things out for you good luck!

I just checked and my '88 turbo has a VF7 R15, I doesn't actually say VF7 on it, but it does say R15.

Simple: EA81T are "rare" and not that powerfull EA82T are not rare but are also not that powerfull and are very problem prone Either one is not really worth the effort or the trouble, with slightly more work you could have an EJ22 or EJ25 (the 2.5 has a little bit more power but more wiring to do) Search the forums, there is tons of information about an EJ22 swap, there is even a .pdf file with almost all the stuff you need to know. good luck

Intrigued by your questions I had a look on the website of a respectable turbo rebuilder in the Netherlands and they confirm your data. The 1985 models have RBH52VF3 (orig part number 14412AA010) The 1987 models have RBH52VF6 (orig part number 14412AA011) Sadly I have no conclusive power figures for the different years of engines. I do know that the 1987+ XTs has 136hp stock. (with a cat but no O2 sensor)

the early gen EJ20s are found in legacy turbos here and as far as I know they have the VF12 (may be VF10 or VF11 depending on year and or market) and definately not the old VF7

It's a crazy idea, that's for sure. But I think that the drive on these things is hydraulic with a big lump generating pressure, that why they pollute so much. And even if you were able to make it a mechanic drive, I don't think the subaru engines have the power/torque at the proper rpms to drive the tracks.

I have a 1988 XT turbo with what I believe is an VF7 so I will check for any numbers on it and report back to you. But I won't be near my car untill wednesday so you'll hear from me then.

They make replacement cartridges for other cars and makes right? They just slot or weld into the old housing, perhaps you could retrofit the rally cartridges from another car into the RX? It should work in theory, it would just take a lot of time to do the research.

They can "scan" the color on your car and make a custom color or find the closest match to it. I never did it, but I know the technology exist, ask around at paint and restauration shops, they are bound to know who/where.

To increase your chances of it coming loose after you heated it, try hitting it with a hammer, you will "shock" the locktite loose and this may give you that extra help you need.

Try to search a bit in the older posts, preferrably from WJM, he has posted a lot of valuable information in this subject. If you agree with me or not, that's fine, it's good to know we agree on the "feeling good" part

The same exact reason why people spend thousands on MG mini's, peugeot 205's, Opel astra's, or whatever crappy car you can think of. There are lots of people spending bucket loads of money on old V8s with stone-age technology (pushrods in '08? "hemis" are special?). And there is NO proper reasoning behind it. Why would I spend the money on it? Because I would rather have a home-built, quirky, unreliable engine which is nothing like the rest on the road. Then the next EJ engined subaru. There is no glory or no satisfaction in just plugging in an EJ engine. Yes it's the most sensible option, Yes it gives you more power (and no it's not as simple as I make it sound) but it doesn't FEEL good. And when you are passionate about your car, that's all that matters. Feeling good.

It's not a 100hp engine, in europe they have 136hp stock and mine is well over 140hp without IC and very reliable. So getting up to 250hp is not that hard with proper fueling and bigger turbo with associated piping. I do not recall his board name, but search for a topic where someone used Greddy e-manage ultimate. He got to 220chp reliable. Also, stock bottom end says something about the crank and conrods, nothing about oil pumps or other accesories. The 300chp figure comes from subaru techs working on EA82T rally engines, people who have all the money and supplies we can only dream of. I'm sure they can achieve quite a bit more than that what you and me can.

gary, by the looks of it, they have geared hubs and so the axles are slightly higher than you would expect them to be. They are there, just thicker and higher then on a subaru.

According to WJM, who got this info from subaru techs, with the stock bottom end, but with forged pistons the limit is at around 300chp. At these numbers you are at the very edge of the capabilities of this engine If you want a slightly more reliable engine, 250chp seems the limit. The HGs are not that bad if you overtorque them and use proper gaskets. Upgraded fueling and cooling are the biggest concerns for the EA engines.

I think you guys got the RHB5 VF7 not VF10 on the EA series engine the VF10/VF11/VF12 is found on legacy/liberty turbos if you want to upgrade I would keep it simple and use a TD04, it's a plentifull, cheap and proven turbo. if you want something else you could look into GT20/GT25 BB turbos, bit spendy but awesome turbos.

What you are describing sounds very much like the high idle solinoid I was mentioning: If the engine runs better with a bigger TB that means that the TB is the limiting factor? but doesn't that also mean that the engine benefits from bigger intake piping (if it's a turbo with IC) or maybe even bigger intake runners?

if you are going to destroy the seal anyway, an easier way of cutting the seal is by first making a hole in the seal, threading a length of steel piano wire through it, tie the ends around pieces of wood and use the steel wire to "saw" through the seal keep someone ready to catch the glass when it's cut free.

you could either read my post or look at the picture's URL it's an 1988 mitsubishi starion, I think you guys call it a conquest?

I was just looking at some mitsu starion pictures and though that would be the perfect way of making a wide body on a XT I know you're not working on an XT, but see it as a source of creativity

sorry double post, trying to delete