jamal

#1. It's not a V6 #2. There are no big issues with the motor and it's great as far as I know. It will not blow headgaskets, that problem is with older 2.5s. The 3.0 H-6 has the same bore/stroke as the very reliable 2.0 and probably uses many of the same casting features. Additionally it has a timing chain instead of belt, which has a longer service interval. #3. The VTD/VDC AWD system in that is awesome and should be in every a/t subaru. It's kind of like the dccd in the sti without manual settings, and can transfer much more power front or rear than the standard Subaru systems. #4. DO IT.

Wheel studs are M12x1.25. The strut bolts are M14x1.5 like uniberp said. The cam on the upper eccentric bolt is 16.5mm. Buy replacement bolts and nuts from the dealer. Do not get something at the hardware store that sort of fits.

yeah those will not fit. If you threw on some outback struts they would, and your car would be another ~1" higher.

The problem is not the brake lights themselves it's the warning lamp on the dash. My car does the same thing. I think it's related to the sensor in the MC. I thought it was an old/low fluid moisture problem but I have fresh fluid and now it's on all the time now for some reason.

Most 15" wheels will fit over your 2000 outback calipers. The bigger 294mm brakes didn't show up until 02-03.

keep in mind the cams are different so they need to go with whichever type of actuation you choose (so send the 95 cams and use roller rockers).

oh, well then, I'd still probably take the 90 heads with the 95 valve train just so you don't have the egr dealie to block off and keep the roller rockers. Also yes send the cams to delta. They have a few standard subaru grinds, and would probably be able to tell you what would be best for the block and heads and compression and usage of the car.

90 heads - dual port exhaust 95 heads - single port not sure which flow best. Roller rockers are a definite benefit. I would take the 95 valve train and put it in the 90 heads, and do a delta grind. Actually it's exactly what I was going to do until I realized that if I'm going to go through all the work to do a swap it had might as well be a 5-speed turbo.

The WRC car has had 4 lug hubs for a few years now. If you take a look at the hub and spindle on one of those you'll see that it's somewhat different from what's on the showroom model. here's the best picture I could find 08 WRX is still 5x100 08 STi is still 5x114.3

If you believe stuff like this works i have a bridge to sell you.

Brembo PN is 25651 DBA PN is 657 Racing Brake and possibly Powerslot also make rotors for your car. I would try WRXbrakes or subarugenuineparts.com. Or just get the autozone cheapies. As long as they're flat it's not a big deal. It might help to remind people you have the "H6" rotors. You could try tirerack again and ask for luke. He's their Subaru person.

no, outback sport stuff will not interchange onto a legacy/outback. In fact, I'm not sure if the regular legacy stuff will interchange with an outback due to the raised roof.

If you're getting aftermarket horns, get a pair. I have the hella supertones and they're great. You wire them with a relay and splice the switch into the existing horn wire. Also, on my car the horns are in front of the battery and there are two.

when you put the new ones on clean off the hub as best you can with a metal brush or something and dab a little grease/anti-seize on the mounting surfaces (ps don't get it on the lugs).

They're 50 series, which is the same diameter as a 185/75-14. Just a lot wider. I'm just saying there's no problem with going to a 205, or a tire close to stock outback diameter. 80 series tires would suck. I would move up to a used set of OEM 15s or 16s, which gives you a wider wheel and more taller tire options. You can get a used set of 16x6.5 WRX wheels for like $125 on nasioc.

Standard OB size is 205/75-15. You should have plenty of room. I personally have 225-50/16s on my Legacy, which is a larger change over the stock size (185-70/14), and the car is lowered slightly.

Same guy did a jurassic park jeep:

205/75-14?

And that's all you need to do.

no, he's saying that the important issue with exhaust piping is having it sized appropriately for the flow rate. Too small and it's restrictive, too large and the exhaust slows down and causes a loss of power/scavenging. Ideally you don't want back pressure; you want quick and efficient flow. The whole "too big and you'll lose low end power" issue isn't because of a lack of backpressure, it's because of a lack of exhaust flow in a large pipe at low revs. Exhaust sizing is the same as cam profiles and timing and intake size/runner length etc. It really only has one ideal rpm, and has to be a compromise to work across the entire range. From what I've heard the newer H6es have a butterfly valve in the exhaust just like the corvette z06. I personally am going to buy the OBX EL header (this week!), and extend an STi catback (~2.25") to work with it. Still trying to figure out exactly what to do for the cat section but I have a pretty good idea.

the legacy rear suspension went to multi-link in 00, and yes, the sti front hubs changed on 05. 95-99 Legacy and 02-07 Impreza rear strut tops have a different bolt pattern, but you can use your stock rear tops with 95-99 Outback struts and springs so it all bolts up. The outback has spacers and stuff on the subframes and driveline components, so a 4" lift is not going to work well with your suspension and axle geometry.

like I said, a twin turbo does not fit in a LHD car due to the brake booster/MC and steering column. However, if the 5-speed is included, that's almost worth getting for $550, because you can get used WRX manifolds and turbos for pretty cheap on nasioc. Still, the costs are going to look something like this: Turbo crossmember : $200 turbo: $150-$$$$ Exhaust manifold/up/down/tbe: $300 Wiring harness/ecu: $300 Misc things like a boost solenoid and replacement cut hoses and axles etc: $500 A $500 driveline can turn into a $2000 swap pretty quickly. The TT motors have better flowing heads and bigger valves than a WRX motor from what I've heard.

it's a dohc with coil on plug. If it came with the ecu and harness, and you had the wiring diagrams, it wouldn't be too bad, except for the fact that you would have to lose one of the turbos, find a single turbo exhaust manifold, buy a new crossmember then actually do the swap. That would involve adding wires to your harness from the turbo one (not included), and splicing it all into the plugs for the turbo ecu (also not included). If you had everything it probably wouldn't be too hard, just a little time consuming, as you'd just have to read both diagrams and match up the corresponding wires. I'm probably going to do it one of these days. Also, they say it's from an Impreza but only Legacies ever came with twin turbos.

um, what?

Going a size narrower isn't going to make much of a difference, especially if the tire is some generic all season. The best solution would be a taller car or dedicated snow tires, and there's not really a magical all season that's going to solve all your problems. I guess you could try a 205/60-16 in a very good all season. Browse tirerack for something that gets good ratings on snow and ice. Additionally, tires that grip better on slippery and loose surfaces have bigger and deeper tread blocks and will make more noise.