subaruloverbrad

I Thought About That Myself, But Didnt Do It Due To Low Fundage. I Also Wanted To Bring 1"x1"x1/8 Around The Grill But $$ Was Running Low.. I Always Have These Great Ideas, But Never The $$ To Build/back Them.

I AM THE ONE WHO BUILT THE BIG BUMPER, THE REASON FOR THE HEIGHT OF TOP BAR, IT LINES UP WITH THE ORIGINAL MOUNTS, TOP BAR IS STRAIGHT 2"X2"X1/4" THE BOTTOM GOES JUST IN FRONT OF FRONT SPOILER, SAME LENGTH AS IT MINUS ABOUT 1" AND IT IS ALSO 2"X2"X1/4" TUBE. THE UP AND DOWN ONES ARE 1.5"X1.5"X1/4"AND SO ARE THE ONES THAT MOUNT THE BUMPER TO THE FRONT (ALL FOUR) IT ALSO BOLTS INTO THE CROSSMEMBER LIFT BLOCKS. i HAD PLANNED ONTO MOUNTING A WINCH SO I BUILT IT OVER KILL. I WAS GOING TO ALSO PUT A SKID PLATE FROM THE BOTTOM OF BUMPER BACK TO THE FRONT X-MEMBER. 1/4 PLATE OR SO... THE DESIGN IS VERY STRONG.

HEY, WORKS GREAT, 1/2 ? THE FRONT AXLES, STOCK WORK FINE. i USED 2 CROSMEMBERS, ONE LIFTED, ONE PARTIAL(JUST FOR MOUNTING ENGINE IN REGULAR LOCATION) I CUT THE REAR MUSTACHE BAR TO FIT THE FRONT LIFTED CROSSMEMBER, WELD IT IN PLACE(INSTALL AXLES ONTO DIFF, POSISTION DIFF AND MUSTACHE BAR SO AXLES DONT RUB CROSSMEMBER) I ALSO WELD IN PLATES FROM FRONT OF CROSSMEMBER TO MUSTACHE BAR NEAR BOLT HOLES. THR BACK OF THE DIFF, A TUBE BRACKET FROM SIDE TO SIDE BETWEEN THE REAR FRONT LIFT BLOCKS"YOU SHOULD KNOW WHAT I MEAN YOU BUILD LIFTS" HOPE THIS HELPS.

The Only Problem I Ever Had Was A Guard Under The Engine, Dust Sheild I Think,between Trans And Engine, Was Bent Up A Little , Just Enough To Stop Engine From Tightening Up. Took Me A While To Find That Out.

You Pay Shipping, Or Do I? I Think I Have 2,maybe 3 Ea82 Shafts And 2-3 Ea81 Shafts. I'll Check To See If I Still Do. My Zip Code Is 24210

NOPE, MY 89 WAS POWER AND WHEN I LIFTED IT 6 INCHES, I USED THE NON POWER ROD WHICH IS CAPABLE OF BEING EXTENDED A INCH OR SO, BUT IT JUST SO HAPPENS IT WAS THE RIGHT LEGENTH

same here!

Gone:( My 1981 Ea81 Gl With 4 Speed Hi And Lo And Dual T-case 6 Inch Lift:32x11.50 Tsl Sx Swampers, Y They Were $50 Used And Wanted Bigger Than 29's Sold My 1989 Gl Ea82 Spfi Wagon With 5 Speed 6 Inch Lift And Suzuki T-case Had 29x10.50x15 Y' Good Price And Love The Traction Of The Sid Walls, Great In Mud....funny, I Never Got To Try Them Out In The Mud....oh Well It Has A Good Home Now.

I Towed With My Gl10 Auto 3 Speed Front Drive, A Brat On A Tow Dolly 150 Miles Or So With About A 70mph Average With No Problems. Id Go For It.

I REMOVED THE SWAY BAR

no i think (if i remember correctly) it came off a older toyota pick up.

mo lod sold roo, gezze im so stupid for selling her:banghead: i miss her so much! i cant upload pics, there to big i think, pics: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/datuunloverbrad/album?.dir=3cca&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos maybe that will work

10 w 30 castrol syntec, with k&n oil filter (stops the tic in the ea82 engines.)

I 2nd the ea81!

Looking For Roo Runners In This Area! Bristol Or Abingdon

Id like to see that one, is it still independent? Yep you are right about front lift,but I think i might be able to get it to work...............tight clearences....Boy an ea81 is easier. hopeing to do 32 or 33 with cutting beating and 6 incher. also hope to be done by end of the month. Rear looks easy enough. Will share pics when completed, will make t case work! cut floor if needed, did an ea81 and had it almost in back seat lol.

Just wanting to see how many and what options others have used parts wise before starting my 1989 gl. Subarulover Brad Black Widow 5 speed dual range, spfi soon mods: 6 inch lift, 32 inch swampers, front & rear lsd 3.70/maybe 3.90, rear disk, half doors, custom bumpers, custom frame, 6 lug conversion, samy transfer case?, custom driveshafts?

I had a bad engine and clutch in my 1989 gl dualrange wagon, I changed out the engine with one from an slush-o-matic, both were fuel injected (tbi) I installed the flywheel onto the auto engine, replaced clutch disk while i was at it, put in car, now clutch pedal is on the floor and cant be adjusted enough to dissengage the clutch. The fork isnt even seeming to touch the bearing into the pressure plate before running out of travel. One thing i observed was that the pressure plate is flat? arent they susposed to be convex a little? i can turn my bearing sideways (tabs against fork) and it seems to work the clutch but feels strange, musshy. any ideas?

Thanks, that was the problem. but it is still running alittle warm while driving uphill,i figgure it isjust a little out of time, thanks again

I usually dont ask for help, but i'm stumped on this one. I have just got an 1989 subaru wagon, 1800 5 speed dual-range, throttle body injection. My problem is, a few things. First i replaced the thermostat, and the radiator(old one was missing fins, flushed engine, before ever driving it. The last owner replaced timming belts cap, rotor button, wires, plugs, coil asembly and bunch other things, said it had a couple of problems, ran a little warm and missed a little. The thermo was stuck almost closed. Got it together and ran like a scaulded dog,i was eating stangs with it. I went to "play" down this little "non state owned" road aganist a big ford truck, i had him, hit a small bump, and then engine started missing like a timming belt had broke, wouldnt even pull 30 mph.I checked belts, good shape and really new. in time also....but now it wouldnt even start. I removed the disty bolts and turned the disty untill my friendstarted it, it was almost a 1/4 turn out. Ran good agatn, drove home, turned off. next day, wouldnt start untill i un timed it back to normal, went to pull out and it did it again, pulled cap off and noticed i could turn disty button about a 1/4 turn by hand and it not come back, is the optical disty susposed to do that? any ideas what problem i have or how to fix it? I have to get it going asap! please help.

it is really simple, it involves cutting one wire and running it to the ign switch on only when switch is on. the fuel pump wire can also be wired to turn on when the coil is energized. im not at my subaru right now, could go there tomorrow eve and take a pic if you need me to. one wire engerizises the feild it is the one you cut and run to the ign switch/ relay. it is one of the wires on the t connector, beilve it is the big one. that is how i put a newer al into my 1981... oh yeah, i unpluged my old ex regulator also. wish i still had the old pic i belive it is the one marked on alt "E" one wire is for energize one is for guage. hope this helps

Thinking on putting an er27 into wifes wagon want to know how to wire it up. any links to diagrams would be helpful. also looking to figgure out how to put spfi on my newly accquired 83 brat with an ea81 engine. thanks for any help given.

have you welded an extension onto the strut? I started to do that but decided to use a spacer instead on top of the strut...... one thought would be to take a die grinder and make slot just a little bit wider on the un threaded side, then it might clamp tighter. if you made the slot wide enough, you might be able to weld a tab on the strut tube that sticks through the slot with a hole drilled and clamp bolt through the hole and tighten.? i would probably try the later of the two. not that any of my ideas would ever work

did you use new intake gaskets? did you drain coolant before you took of intake? i changed my carb and intake, not exactly like you are doing, had same problem, water was leaking into the engine and hydro locked it. had to remove spark plugs to get it to turn over . then found the water was leaking past one of the old re-used gaskets. replaced them and now it works fine. Just a thought.

well maybe, but for about 10k miles i havent had any problems. at one time i had about 5 washers in there with my other wheels that were offset more up to a couple of months ago. i am not saying that everyone has to do it, it is just something i have done. just wanted to show it to others that may have a problem with their tires barely rubbing their body.