bheinen74

air in the coolant system did not get burped out correctly possibly. Search for "burping coolant" on here Basically, we need to know if your shop is familiar with subarus To burp the car, you can do it several ways, but the heat selection needs be turned on full hot, with heat on during the burping.

Where you gonna put radio antenna, that new fender is not got the hole for antenna.

Nice score Mick. My dad has a few of those, i think he keeps like spare vacuum hoses, and some flat steel in it.

even that mount hook had to get cut off and rewelded..like in the pic

thats the clean install of a 05 STi axle back on my 92 Legacy Turbo Sport Sedan. for a 91 legacy NA you are barking up the wrong tree..if you had factory turbo engine, maybe like me, but on a ej22 NA no go.

seen it here in bfe since people dont like the front end styling, they commercial it with the rear end which still looks decent. people hate the front and they wont commercialize that part of it YET. And, who really wants an SUV, we want something small with SUV capable suspension, in a small package. SUVS suck. why advertise that even. they used to advertise stuff with built affordable to stay affordable. They use to last 300k easily, but since the 2.5, no way in hell without prciey maintenance. Gone down the hill in my book. Eveybody pissed in my wheaties today they better stop. I believe in Subaru FUJI...but not recently due to the ej25. Prove me wrong. I lvoe the ej22, love the EA81 but not the current tech . and please, never put Microsoft tech (active sync in my future of a car) microsoft crashed every day and crashed hard and regular. I dont want my car to crash due to it. that is bad juju for anycar. Now if they put Apple Os n a car it would last and not crash and fail all the time.

my 85 brat gl has one...CA model

just vent hoses that go to the atmosphere, not hooked to anything but tranny...

sorry forgot about pics for front, tonight will do. Drain coolant from radiator, pull loose the bottom radiator hose from the engine side. Pull off the top hose from radiator. Do you have a weber? Take top hose to parts auto store and buy long flexible hosing in the same tubing size. After the thing is all done, you need to shorten and reuse your bottom hose. speedo cable undo clamp/bracket so it can move around some. Emerg brake cable brackets untuck from the center tunnel under the floor near the driveshaft/tranny so they can move around. sway bar stays attached. unplug the green wire going to your O2 sensor because it has a chance to be stretched during the process, it is long enough but disconnect for now. transmission, remove the dogbone to bell housing. Near the dogbone is a Black ground wire. Detach that, cut wire in half, splice in with butt connector longer wire chunk, that wire will be too short otherwise. vacuum line brakcet ver by shock tower, remove bracket screw, it will bend down enough. etc etc etc.

glad i cannot tell you an answer. I 've never had a need to do a HG job. I would think that due to the longer width of the EJ, putting it closer to the side rails, that the EJ would be more difficult for sure. Probably similar though. I did not use #2 pencil

also on the top side of tranny, near the firewall area above it, there should be a couple short vacuum hoses, short like 5" breathers. All they are is vent pressure breathers make sure they are not clogged..... use some compressed air to blow a little air thru them to check.

if you find this to be the Oring, i would say a hardware store, autoparts store, or tractor supply place. Get something "oil, ATF, gas resistant". should be about 25cents cheap.

o ring needs replaced on the dipstick top portion near handle. its old, smashed and loose.

on the AC, make 2 4" long bracket with flat steel and a couple holes, one hole at top and one at bottom. I will take a picture of mine tonight to show you basically what i mean, in order to preserve the factory stock location and height of the AC compressor in relation to the lines, and hoses up by the radiator. You do not want to lower the compressor when you lower the engine in relation to body. You want the AC compressor to remain in exact spot it is now, in relation to the engine bay, hood etc so that is why the 4" long straight steel pieces. which holds the AC up after you drop it, or you can use some short peices of wood block to hold it. a couple 2 inch thick short boards will aid you you don't bump it too much. undo your front engine crossmember after the car is on jackstands and oyou are supporting the engine with a jack. lower a tiny bit, then place wood blocks under AC to raise it, lower engine a bit more, block more etc........now for running the belt to AC, thats up in the air, but i think i got some plans on that for you too. we are guinea pigs, nobody else uses the AC but we want to. not sure why your lift block bolts are too long? reuse your stock bolts in the stock locations going into frame rails, and then use the new bolts on the bottoms of the blocks to your suspension members. Oh wait, i think i had to use some extra washers i had laying around the shop too. all is well. I like the red.

sheet metal is sheet metal. do what they do in racing cars, cut out the dented sheet metal back to where it is sort of straight still, pop rivet in new flat sheetmetal, shape, and spray paint. easy fix. just use heavy enough guage metal that will be stronger than oem. thats exactly how they do figure 8 cars here, making them into tanks and very strong. once rivets are in there, lay down some wire weld beads.

the four long bolts are the ones i am referring to as being too large in diameter for the front engine cross blocks. You need to either drill the frame rails and use those bolts, or go find smaller diameter bolts and not drill. I did not want to drill my frame rails so i could take it back to stock if i ever chose to do so.

the whole front pivot above the diff, put the bolt back thru the hole. Also, put the nuts back on the bottom 4 studs and tighten that plate back up. The only thing you touch on the rear diff is the 2 nuts holding it to the mustache bar. Place your 4" plate there on the back cover of the diff.

Might have an idea to get my AC back up on my Brat, but I will need a spare alternator pulley, one with 2 v grooves......anyone got a 2 pulley alternator wheel i can try. or is running the AC belt off the alternator not going to cut it?

waiting to see lifted 2010 the 09 is the closest i have found as of yet

weatherband on mine from Amazon is nice to have. Little Wil magnetic antenna, take it off the roof when i am not needing the CB. If theres a traffic slow down on I-80, I got it so i can open the slider, reach back, and plop the antenna up on top, then tune to whatever channel, hear the truckers tell where, what the holdup is, and take an exit to get on the sideroads and still be home without delay. magnet antenna makes it nice to hide the antenna when i park it places in public so as to not attract any thug to the car for some cheap crak $ for a hot deal for pawn.

75mph in a 92 SVX (4100 pounds) is about 2000rpm 80 is about 2100 rpm i gets 26mpg in it. I would hope a 4 cyl with CVT does get 32mpg like people are saying.

10/3 Uni Indiana St 10/17 UNI S. Illinois (homecoming) 11/7 UNI Youngstown St 11/14 UNI Western Ill 12/18 Chattanooge these are just home games except national championship. so those dates are all out for me.

yes. Also, the rear carrier bearing of the diff stays factory. the whole torsion bar tube is blocked 4" with the blocks. You can put the big bolt back thru the front carrier stay. correct, the Mustache bar stays factory. I had the same trouble with the shock bushings moving from the oe shocks to the skyjackers, that was a hard time. Reuse your lower shock steel sleeves/collars. I was able to get my old busings in wihtout totally screwing them up. I used silicone spray, oil, etc to grease them up and a shop vise to twist them in......it took a long time to do that.

wow. I need to get some pictures for you. you have a few things wrong so far. the square drop plate is not sandwiched between anything. If you take the 2 nuts off from the Rear of the diff, it will drop 4 inches. the plate is place like this | when looking from the tires towards the center of the car. It has 2 holes that will attache to the studs on the back of the diff cover, use washers and nuts to attach the plate to the rear cover. Then the other 2 holes at the tops will go back thru the mustache bar holes, use the 2 short bolts with nuts to attach, and washers. The rear brake lines to not come undone, you just pry them loose from the holding stay brackets, and bend the line down about 3 inches, careful no to break the line. the brake extenders from your kit are for the front brakes....