bheinen74

because anything on the lug nuts will throw off the real torque value, even with the best torque wrench. Good, clean threads is what you want.

oh, and post pics, we like pics, To post a picture, the picture has to be hosted on another site already, like photobucket, flickr, etc, then once it is on the other site, you link to it using the "insert image" above, the copy the link..

I have been surprised the number of cars i have bought that someone obviosly has no idea they were WAY overtorqeing them. Some cars, people who put the wheels on obviously should not be doing wheel installs were. You shouldn't have to use cheater bars or stomp on the lug method to bust them loose, that is WAY too tight. The torque value is there for many reasons, 1. to prevent hub distortion. that keeps bearings happy. 2. The average little old lady if got a flat tire would have no chance in cold hell to change a tire in the middle of nowhere if they are torgued above the spec number. 3. Stripped threads on the lug nuts 4 stripped threads on the stud 5 .broken off wheel studs, 6. 7. 8, 9. and while we are on the topic, you should never put oil or antiseize on the lugnut studs. If the threads are rusty, you use a tap/die chase them to clean, but never apply any product You can, and should apply a little ring of antisievze around the wheel round center of aluminum wheels where they center around the hub, so they will not be frozen stuck in a salty rust prone area.

have you looked at the front frame rails? normally it is in bad taste to knock on anyone personally, not doing that, but there are a few threads we arleady discussed this car long before you bought it, threads of seeing it posted for sale and we all had out own opinions, mostly that is was a rusty hunk of steel.

yeah a door "bottom half would be nice. The tops here dont rust, but the bottom from the belt molding strip down rust, something in fiberglass to cap the bottom half would be nice...I wouldnt want entire door, just the bottom half inside and out cap. or maybe entire door would be okay maybe.

seller was asking like 2100 for a car we normally see sell for 400 bucks, rusty hunk. I crushed one that the body was like 50 times nicer on.

^exactly. and when things get warm in there, things expand, you don't want it packed full of grease, it will blow your seals out.

probably timing belts. well, the one on the passenger side likely is snapped.

too soon to say, "EJ22 swap" ? they never really had a HG issue. Rock on ej22:headbang: And, please, I hope Subaru is watching the USMB posts, and that they ditch the ej25 and that dreaded HG issue.

fuse thermostat oem not aftermarket, only use oem coolant flush etc.

well, the covers protect from the engine bay heat getting directly to the belt, and from the radiator heat soak directly in front of the belt I would check the idler bearings for smooth rolling. What kind of belts are you using? I know a belt is rubber. Storing a tire in plastic helps it from cracking due to exposure to the ozone in the air, I think the belt cover protects the rubber on the belt too. stirring a can of worms i bet.

You said you have plastic covers. Do you mean plastic lens vs the glass style, or do you mean covers.. what about taking the headlight covers off in the winter? Another option if not the cover issue, is to use rain-x or a high quality wax that repels water and moisture. Some good waxes repel water drops and so it would be hard for anything to stick.

YES, a JDM trans has different ratio. I re-read your post. You have a JDM trans in there, then your ratio is wrong// You need to test this with the car off the ground, all four corners on jackstands. see if you get buttery smooth disengagement. If so, then verify gear ratio is same. verify tires are same. If same, then all is normal. You are not supposed to shift in and out of 4wd when on dry pavement or non slipping surfaces. meaning gravel is ok to shift in and outm same on snow or ice, Not on dry pavement. The owners manual should clearly state this.

In the US, we never got the sidemarker lights, so we will have to have some sidemarkers shipped from somewhere to go in the spot. Do you plan to sell the side lights too? if so, I will likely buy set of left/right fender pairs.

There are 2 likely causes of the clutch pack going out on yours. 1. Car was towed with rear wheels down at some point 2. Someone put new tires on either end of the car and left old tires on the other end of car, and drove like that for a few thousand miles. 3. drove with the fuse in the AWD holder. I am making a note on my table, to go out tomorrow and install a label over the fuse that says "DO NOT put fuse in here". may save the future owner some greivance.

not enough info. Is your car a outback, or more imporantly, is your engine DOHC or SOHC. Maybe the engine is not the same the car came with. Maybe the dealership gave you wrong headgaskets. Please state your engine DOHC or SOHC, and give the part numbers for the headgaskets you used. Did you put on new intake manifold gasket? sounds like you pressed in the rear main incorrectly, so the engine will be coming back out for that too. Once the rear main install is botched, it goes in the trash you buy a new seal, install as above note. Did you replace the rear separator cover too? If not, add that to your list of should do if it is the leaking type, again dependent on if the engine is not the original etc, it could have plastic or metal cover you want to put it back in the car with the metal style cover on your engine. You said you used the haynes manual...... *** I don't think I would use that manual, you should be going with the Subaru newest specs from the dealer for torque procedure on the headbolts. The haynes is likely old values, if they even had it right to begin with. (the haynes was based on the original style gasket, of which you know has changed, it is unlikely the haynes has updated anything on that, where the dealer has updates)

Either one or both of the rubber hood stoppers are out of adjustment, the striker is needing adjusted, the latch needs adjusted, or it is wearing out from the constant opening shutting. Brake cleaner is not the right thing to spray. You should spray white lithium grease on it, it should have some gummy residue. It prevents rusting too.

tried it just now, got 500 internal server error. I am a member there too.

cool car but pretty hard to find parts for at the junkyards, and if you are in Iowa, they don't exist and the dealer won't know what it is. You say sir, you have a S OO B A R OOOO, X, teee what..... same as SVX. I couldn't really keep mine cause no parts to keep it going

unplug vac advance hose, plug hose with something while checking timing. that is how it is done. probably know that, but just in case, here it is.

cool xt6

Dennis's brown wagon still running fine with the ea81 from ski wagon in it. My Brat is non lifted now, running, but with oil leak i need to addressm either rear main or else oil pan or ?? Ben's Guido is now lifted, but hanging out with McBrat, unknown to when or if it will be revived. McBrat, where was he again.:-\

I will offer my hatchie in the next few weeks if I get my leads on the next one. Ohio is not that far away, and amtrak runs from Chicago to here. So if my leads turn up, and you were interested then you would take amrtak here I would make sure you got it back there to your home. only had it for 2 months, but have already driven 2k miles on it. It is a good one. Or I would consider driving it there for a fee of my gas, my amtrak back, and a meal.

yes. Firstly, the 2005+ headgaskets leak oil, externally. There is not risk if you keep the oil level inspected. As far as I know, it is not coolant that leaks past the gasket, only oil, and it leaks outside the block. Many people have had to repalce them and it seems the 85k-95k mark is where they show up. Better than overheating due to loss of coolant like the old ones. Better than that. Keep eye on oil, deal with the burning smell, or else, fix them. They will leak again even with new OEM Subaru gaskets. Subaru NEVER did figure out the EJ25 block/heads for the headgasket design. Hence, you will see new engines from Subaru, the new FB block is going to be better. Sorry had to be blunt Some "bad" shops will purposely poke, rip, knife axle boots for a job that pays well in labor.

yep, the seal outer and inner is what protects the bearing from outside contaminants getting in. Always. would be like changing a timing belt and reusing the water pump etc. that is no no. new seals. yes. that shop failed, cross them off the repeat customer list.